Bodywork question: I have a rear valance (the curved underbelly under the bumpers with two holes the exhaust come through) that I have mostly straightened out on my S1, but I can't get a dolly inside well well enough to straighten the two exhaust holes out (they have some crinkles in the steel I can't pull out). I know this is going to bug me when the car is painted, and I have a parts car with a good valance.

How hard is it to drill out the spot welds, remove and replace?

If I take it off I can repair from inside, or just put another one on, and tidy up the closed cavity area under the trunk too. I have the fuel tank covers off and no gas in cleaned out tanks so now is a good time to be welding around that area....going to be harder to do once it is back on ground...

Any issues greatly appreciated before I succumb further to shipwright's disease...

 

It's a big job. I know because I've done it myself because the old one was rusted out.

A car body man should be able to mostly straighten them out by drilling holes, putting in a screw then using a slide hammer to pull on the screw. They also have lots of special sheet metal tools. You never get it looking as per factory fitment, so some filler is normally needed. Body lead would be best but it takes some learning to get up to speed with it.

 

Thanks Fraser - I have a nice straight rust free panel - i have a good stud gun etc, but the curves around the holes are really tricky to straighten. Maybe I'll cut those two sections out, straighten and then weld and lead back in...sounds as though that's going to be less work than removing the entire panel. Regarding leading, I already removed the US side marker lights and the rear arial, welded in patch panels and leaded them in to blend into the sheetmetal.

 

Mine was replaced by body shop before painting. PO had welded up the exhaust holes. Panel was not expensive...they had no trouble with R&R.

 

Oliver:


A couple of "way out" thoughts. Past my present abilities, if I ever had them, but it sounds like they are within yours.


1. Somewhere in my gear is a small set of hole cutters. Intended to remove the metal around factory "spot welds" and as such, free a damaged panel for replacement.


2. I observed a pair of skilled boiler makers repairing a steam boiler. A bulkhead with holes for the tubes to be secured into. The bulkhead and the holes was distorted by trauma. Their tool was a "Y" shaped tool to span a distorted hole. A backer for it and a big bolt and nut to join the two. Tighten the nut and "squeeze the hole into shape to accept the new tube. One hoe at a time til all was as it was.


Seems like the ports in the much thinner body metal would respond to a clamping method.


Carl

 

The challenge is the curve...the exhaust holes are punched out of a curved plane so the curved inward lip of the hole is very hard to straighten once it is kinked, with limited access to the inside with dollies even with the exhaust off the car. It is one of the most gorgeous rear end designs ever IMO, but it is very visible to the eye if not perfect...
In theory some 180 degree curved pliers could work to manipulate the metal, but there always seems to be something in the way when you try to access from outside the car.

I rattle canned the previously worked areas here to see what stands out. Below the pipes isn't such an issue as that area is mostly hidden...having another go this weekend...

 

Going through the same process, atm.

Whilst fitting new fuel tanks, I was side tracked to replace some rusty steel.

I will give the whole rear a work over in the future, as I plan to delete the centre bumper and smooth the under bumper rib. Atm, it's just cancer work for road worthy inspection.



I cut away the exhaust hole from 4 O'clock to 10 O'clock and the sheet metal down to the fuel tank compartment flange. Drilled spot welds.

I wish that I had taken more pics, but this is the stage that I am up to.

You can see the rolled lip imperfection where I joined to the original, but it will do for now.

I rolled the lip onto flat sheet by dollying it over an old hydraulic cylinder of similar diameter.

Sometimes it is far easier to replace complex curves than to try and re shape the original, especially if thin due to corrosion.

I agree with you that access is a bugger.

I think that removal of the whole panel will probably be beneficial, in the long run, as there is definitely corrosion worthy of addressing behind there judging from the experience of others on this forum.
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Great to see that you are rolling up your sleeves and doing the work yourself.

Keep up the effort and I am sure that you will get a result that you can be proud of.


This is my inspiration and what I plan to emulate.
Rear valance.

 

contact David, he'll know how.

 

Nicely done! I decided to cut my 'holes' out to tidy them up and then weld them back in, but other projects are currently ahead of that car.