well the jag sounds like its dropping a cylinder .... I'm guessing a coil has gone intermittant. how to find which one? I plugged in the elm327 and it won't connect to the car (it was a cheap ebay one). Very frustrating. it appears only very specific readers will handle the 2001 jaguar s type. which ones will read anything, even if its just engine codes? I don't want to do the "keep buying them until one might work" caper

seeya
Shane L.

 

These are very expensive for a bluetooth device, has anyone tried one on an early Stype?

https://www.obdlink.com/products/obdlink-mxp/

it says it can read the lincoln ls systems, so will probably read all of the jag bits as well!

 

Usually an elm327 can do it but there are some issues:
for android, best have BT (or wired USB)
for apple, need WiFi
for a PC, almost any kind
then you need software that's not a bit stupid (some assumes which address the PCM has, wrongly)
sadly quite a few elm327s are bad clones so you have to avoid those

You can hit similar issues with any clone. The very expensive dealer-type tools usually work but the cost makes them unattractive

 

That's the one I use and so far it has connected to every car I have tried. It's a very good OBD interface.
.
.
.

 

I better buy a better quality elm32

well I grabbed a cheap code reader from the local auto-parts store. We have:

P0171; bank 1 lean
P0174: bank 2 lean

So we can assume its run out of fuel at some point in the last 25years.... helpfully the banks are not labelled... so its not much help either way.

P0301: cylinder 1 misfire detected. This could be my problem child. Helpfully it doesn't label or show the cylinder layout or firing order anywhere.
P1131: lack of ho2s sensor indicates lean (has it run out of fuel at some point again?)
P1577: pedal position sensor disagreement ....

I've cleared the codes and its now running fine .... so I need the issue to happen again so I can narrow down what the issue is. The pedal position issue may have been caused by me pressure washing the engine bay a few weeks back.

 

Gee I bet these are good quality plugs and coils

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/256107646876

coils and spark plugs for the price of just spark plugs ....

 

Easiest thing is to use site Search on each of the things you want to know and see what they mean / how to diagnose more / fix, and where to get fuller info.

 

Oh I know that, the threads I have found show a lot of confusion on which cylinder is which. I have cylinder misfire on No1 back. Does anyone have a simple diagram that shows the cylinder numbering?

seeya
Shane L.

 

There it is .... I was sure I'd find it on this forum somewhere.

So No1 is in the same place. Hiding under the inlet manifold. What is the bet I find the original factory spark plugs hiding under there as well

I imagine "front of engine" means the end without the flywheel where there is an east/west motor.....

 

So I figured I better whip the plugs and coils out of the Jag last night, so its ready to swap in the new coils when they arrive.



Obviously I said "golly gosh, that isn't good" ..... or, um ... words to that affect ..... FFS.... I barely applied any force to that connector and it broke like it was made of nothing

I guess I go and try to find a brass fitting or similar that will join that mess back up. Its not a simple 5 minute job to get to the plugs under that manifold. I wonder if they have ever been changed ....

seeya
Shane L.

 

With a 20+ year old car you need to expect that ALL the plastic and rubber stuff is beyond it's lifespan at this point. So any repairs will result in broken plastic bits. Much better to plan your work and replace all of that in one go. Otherwise you will continually need to go back in and replace those parts one by one.

Have you replaced all the coolant hoses?
.
.
.

 

Actually all the hoses, rubber and plastics (other than the supension bush covers) are in very sounds, good condition. I think its because the car is quite low milage, so it hasn't seen the heat of 25years of baking in the engine bay

 

Well it's like tires. They put the manufacturing date on them for a reason. The reason is just age alone deteriorates all plastic and rubber. Even if the item is not used at all and has no heat or UV exposure.
I follow the Ford GT forums and with the low miles on most of those cars they still have the OEM tires from 2005-2006! Quite a few accidents when guys go for a spin on these original tires!
.
.
.

 

Well the coils I tried to buy on ebay .... a week later they tell me they actually aren't in stock ... sigh ... so now I have another single coil on order through a different ebay shop. Hopefully later this week.



Look at that, did they only make the visible rocker cover out of metal?



I didn't even bother to price a new coolant line. I just can't stand plastic crap. So for some pocket change I just grabbed so fittings.



A fix that is a million times better than expensive crappy plastic molded junk Yes i'm aware I haven't put hose clamps on there yet in this picture ...

Now if only those new coils would turn up at some point!

 

This car is really trying my patience. Finally the coil turns up (I still have a full set of coils on back order). Anyway, I put it back together and its still running on 5 cylinders .... Are you kdding me??

So I read the codes ...

P0201 Cylinder 1 injector "A" circuit

How in the hell does changing the spark plugs and a coil upset the injectors? I can't see anything, so i pull it all back apart, and yes, the injector wiring and injectors look fine. Put it back together and its still running on 5 ... then it seems to smooth a little .... So i take it for a drive, and the car is running fine ... engine light ON most of the time... it pulls hard out at the redline through the gears.

Pull back up into the shed, it feels not smooth enough when idling. So I clear the codes ... and

P0201 Cylinder 1 injector "A" circuit

immediatly returns. What on earth goes here? I don't believe for a second changing the sparkplugs and coils has caused the injector to die

Maybe having one different brand coil is causing this? The only problem with this is I moved one of the old coils to No1 (where you need to pull the car to bits to get to) and put the new coil on No4 where its easily acccessible).
seeya
Shane L.

 

Please oh please tell us you ordered name brand coils from a reputable vendor. We've had MANY tales of woe on the forum from guys who installed no-name coils and soon came to regret it.



Actually, on the early V6, both sides are some type of plastic composite. Only the visible side is painted to look like metal. Doesn't make a good ground for electrical troubleshooting. I do not care to discuss how I know this.

 

I have a set of NGK coils on order. The one I fitted is a PAT branded coil. I have no idea what is good quality these days. Everything is faked these days, how could I ever tell if I have purchased "real" NGK sparkplugs for it ... hmmmmm

seeya
Shane L.

 

just noticed battery voltage is 11.7volts.... I don't understand how it is possible, but manybe this is the "injector" issue. It probably explains wihy the error goes away when I drove the car for a bit (it lifted the battery voltage). I've chucked it on a charger and we'll see what happens when there is a good strong battery in it (weirdly it cranks fine ).

 

So I tried taking the agravating bloody thing for a drive today. Charging the battery made no difference, I drove it all away across town to see if I could score one of these tools kits on clearance.

https://www.4wdsupacentre.com.au/adv...BNLIbjBzSoWxMQ

its proving it definatley needs a tool kit that lives in its boot. (they were sadly out of tool kits). that is 35usd for a very substantial, decent quality tool set!

Anyway, after sitting for 10minutes in the carpark. the car restarted, and is running absolutely faultlessly .... utterly perfect. You cannot fault it in any way.

So this is good, I'm expecting it to be back to running on 5.5cylinders after its completely cooled. As ridiculous as it sounds, I think we have a heat sensitive injector/coil here. I bet it starts and runs on 5 cylinders when cold, so I'll heat injector No1 with a heat gun and see if it starts working when warming.

crazy right? I've never had an injector fail, especially at the same time as a coil (they are completely unrelated).

 

Given the car was running absolutely perfectly yesterday afternoon. I figured I'd try it again this morning and run the youngest to school in it. Lets see if this really is heat related. So it started with a heavy miss .... running on five .... sigh.... Its not like the cylinder is completely dead (eg: no spark).

it slowly gets better as it warms.... Its almost right as it after I go into the office at the school.... and it has some time to do some heat soak .... then gets progressively worse as I drive home (its only 12degrees outside).

So.... I whip out the heat gun when I get home to see if heating No1 injector will "fix" the issue (ie: its gone temerature sensative). and rapidly find there is no way I can direct heat at the injector as there is to much in the way. I grabbed out a long screwdriver and pushed firmly on the electrical connector .... and the damn thing instantly smoothed out. Let the screwdriver off ... back to five cylinder. Damn it all, I'd check and cleaned htat connector and it looked fine, but if I push firmly on the electric connector at about 45degrees of angle, the missing cylinder comes back to life.

So YAY ... I get to pull the top off the inlet again .... try too see what the problem is again ..... Did I sit the inlet manifold on this electrical connector messing it up somehow when I changed the coil (it looks perfectly fine)

Oh, that brass fitting I've used after chopping out the molded plastic crap. Its bloody magic. You just unscrew the coolant lines here where its readily accessible and you can easily lift the top half of the inlet manifold away

seeya
Shane L.