Hi al

I have had my S-Type for nearly 2 weeks....slowly going over her and getting to know it. I am detailing it slowly - great chance for up close inspection.
2004 3.0 V6 RHD/Aus spec

I have the classic rocker cover gasket oil leak... is this a priority?

*Front discs and pads and brake fluid flush are getting done in next few weeks.

* Headlight adjusters on the list.

* Oil was changed 3000kms ago - so its fine and levels ok

* Air filter filthy - on my list

Anything else I should be aware of on my critical care list?

Thanks

 

>> I have the classic rocker cover gasket oil leak... is this a priority?
All oil leaks are "priority". Please have a closer look: It it really those gaskets, which are leaking, or is the issue a more severe one:
Have a closer look at the rocker covers themselves: Check especially those areas, where it is bolted on: Does the metal of the rocker cover look solid there or is it dissolving like cardboard in the rain?

>>> * Oil was changed 3000kms ago - so its fine and levels ok
Which oil is in there?

>>> * Headlight adjusters on the list.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...er-kit-263728/


> Anything else I should be aware of on my critical care list?

List of ideas:

Breakfluid change

ATF change (incl. filter and sleeves):
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...s-type-264102/

Rear diff oil change:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...s-type-264126/

Coolant change - full flush: Generally the red coolant is being used. However, I hope that the yellow coolant is better (it was not available when the S-Type came out). With yellow, I mean: Nulon ONE. With full flush I mean: Flush with a full load of demineralised water before filling in the new coolant. Btw.: I am saving the money on buying demin. water by simply using the water, which my house-dehumidifier produces.

Check all rubber parts of steering and suspension, incl. all grommets.

Change power steering fluid. You can use "multi vehicle ATF" for that - that is the ONLY possible application of MULTI VEHICLE ATF, as ATF for the tranny needs to be very specific.

 

Thank you Peter

the car has 174,000 kms
I checked P Steer fluid and it looks relatively new

2nd hand transmission fitted at 171,000kms so it should be fine

Tks for the tip re rocker cover - I will check that.

I have dot 5.1 penrite brake fluid ready to flush - brake fluid looks horrid.

I figured all suspension bushes will need to be done - hopefully over time

Oil is penrite 5-30, but not sure which option. I spoke with Penrite and they suggested HPR5 5-40 would be suitable... it seems to be their only oil which meets WSS M2C913 A or B specification. Is there an alternative you find works well? I am not stuck on any particular brand, just want good quality oil.

Yes, diff oil on the list.

Thanks again

 

Engine oil: If the spec is correct, 5-W30 should work. I believe 5-W30 is the OE spec.
But since we are in Australia (hotter temperatures), I am using 5-W40, and I am using Castrol, Edge 5-W40 A3 B4

If the brake fluid looks horrid, it's about time. Even if it looks good, it should be done every few years, as brake fluid "draws" water from the air and makes the fluid ineffective.

Note about the rocker cover:
It is made of an magnesium alloy. Chemically, magnesium is the sacrificial element in an environment of aluminium and steel, i.e. Magnesium will simply dissolve over time (electro-corrosion), especially if water/humidity is involved.

Here is another of my threads:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...dation-263509/
Your choice: Watch a Horror Movie, or my old cam covers.., (=rocker covers)

 

Ok I will consider 5-40 oil for next change

From reading your other post - I see you have "oh shiny" aswell... it's a blessing and a curse... hence why I detail cars and motorbikes.

The old galvanic sacrificial object....just like outboards.... I will get under the bonnet and have a look.

my car had been sitting for maybe 12-18mths when I got it - purchased from deceased estate family - and it does seem to be better now that the car is being driven regularly.... but it is still on my list.

For gasket replacement - I believe the blue silicone ones seem to be well regarded? Is there a post about where to place the rtv sealant? I believe there are 6 places which need it?

Hope you are enjoying your sunday... back to the garage for more polishing...

 

Yes, I have "Oh shiny" as well - especially treating the metal-air-intake with wire brushes and then high-temp-clear-coat-spray.

Yes, the blue ones are good, but the black ones might be just as good.
All the rough edges want high temp RTV (here the timing cover creates a bit of a rough spot and where the 90° angle is in the surface (if I don't mix it up with the X-Type now).
Also: When swapping cam cover seals, don't forget the "inner" cam cover gaskets/seal towards the spark plugs.
And don't forget to also replace the upper and lower oval shaped rubber seals below the air intake (6 + 6).

...and the spark plugs of course. There is an official recommendation for spark plugs, and there are NEW spark plugs, which did not yet exist, when the S-Type was build:
Denso Iridium TT Twin-Tip "IT20TT" . I use Denso IT20TT

>> The old galvanic sacrificial object....just like outboards....
On boats that's intentional: You place somewhere a lump of magnesium to protect the hull... - That's a result of FMEA thinking.
Cam-covers made of an Magnesium alloy are the result of the opposite of "thinking"...

It just popped up on my browser, while I wanted to check something else:Jaguar S-Type cam covers suffer from severe galvanic corrosion because they are made of magnesium or magnesium alloy, which acts as a sacrificial anode when in contact with aluminum engine heads and steel bolts. The large difference in anodic index between these metals (up to 0.9V) causes the magnesium to dissolve rapidly in the humid, electrically active engine environment, often resulting in the covers appearing "molten" or developing holes around bolt holes and spark plug wells.

This design flaw leads to oil leaks as the corroded metal loses structural integrity and warps, breaking the seal with the gasket. Solutions typically involve replacing the covers, with some owners sourcing cheaper aftermarket units made from aluminum alloy instead of pure magnesium, or using professional electroless Ni-P plating for restoration, as original OEM magnesium replacements are expensive and increasingly difficult to find.
_____________

...and don't forget to polish the exhaust pipes at the rear....

 

More things came to mind:

Clean the MAF sensor.

Coolant, as mentioned before, and here is my thread:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...aks%94-263540/

And next, you have to option to do minor modifications:

Replacing the ugly non functional orange side markers with operational indicators:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...arkers-273400/

Adding DTRL:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...s-type-264128/

Stop the ding dong:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...lt-not-272942/

Jack-warning!:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...gerous-279457/

Make yourself a nice new front facia:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...s-type-264801/

 

Yes, MAF cleaner on the shelf... will do that when I replace air filter.

I recently had a 1999 Ford laser - it had two nanny chimes - one for headlights on which was very useful. The second was for when keys in ignition and ignition on 1, and door open. Bloody annoying - the number of times I told the car "I know the damn door is open I just opened it"
I found there were seperate piezo buzzers for each one, and a simple disconnect on the door nanny fixed it.

Like you and others, its the principle of being reminded something, especially seatbelt in your own driveway...

I played with various LED lighting in that Ford Laser. Ebay ones were horrible - I couldnt adjust a decent light pattern just bright dazzling white everywhere. I went for mid range parts store options, which were better for tuning, and great around dark suburban streets. But on dark country roads I was being blinded by the reflection of street signs. I looked into it and spoke with some rallying folk - and they all suggested higher output halogen, or good quality Hella LED which have the same placement of focal point as normal halogen.

I always put my parkers on whenever I am in the car - day or night - just a habit I picked up from my grandfather.

I like your fabriaction work - I have the cross mesh.chrome metal grille, but yes those plastics between fog lights are on the cheaper side....

Today was spent buffing bonnet, roof and boot - first go to see how the paint responded. Back to shiny and mostly no scratches - a few spots will need a bit more work. I always err on gentle first before employing greater.persuasion -.mechanical and detailing

 

Washing:
My procedure is: Pressure cleaner (but NOT in the engine bay!), then washing the car off with a sponge cloth and dish washing liquid, then pressure cleaner, then a good polish - thone new ceramic polishers are good. Years ago they had a god polish at Supercheap: NU shine and not too expensive either. I think, the competition bought it to let it disappear. Autosol for the chrome parts. And either special plastic cleaner or simply ATF to polish up plastic parts. Window cleaner for windows.

And yes: LEDs:
Not just all the lighting, where-ever possible (some bulbs in the rear lights can't be replaced), but definitely super-bright reverse light LED bulbs, Frt indicator LEDs (which double function as DTRL - see above in my DTRL link), also all new LED fog lights with LED DTRL halo (cheap from China), side lights front, high and low beam (not sure, if I had mine from ebay or aliex., but if you look long enough, you'll find good ones, too), and all the interior light-bulb as LED (else, big waste of energy and dull lighting inside, and everything which is less of a burden for the battery is great.

Talking about the battery:
Get yourself a CTEK 10A or 15A battery charger (used will do), and recharge the battery regularly.

 

I have been detailing cars for 35+ yrs... don't touch the retail gunk - I use commercial grade - once you have used it you would never go back

I'm a purist on the jag - something about the yellow glow of halogen bulbs... On my previous cars I have done plenty of upgrades, but this one is staying in classic mode

I have a ctek 5A charger - but I did see it needs min 8A... my list is getting longer by the day

 

CTEK: Try facebook/marketplace. There are some. I just checked.

headlight-plastic-cleaner:
Your headlights are possibly a bit yellowish (yellow plastic). When you say you like yellow, that's probably not what you meant...
The Turtle headlight cleaner did wonders for me, but other brands may be just as good. I think I started with wet grade 400 or 800 sandpaper before starting with the finer stuff in the kit.

Light bezels:
The chrome bezels around headlights and around the rear lights look great.

 

Before you book it in for a roady, whip the wheels off and check all the ball joint boots. It will look like all the bushes are disitegrated, but its full of sleave type ball joints. The dust covers are a clear plastic that just disintigrates.

I've just been through all of this. I purchased a similar car earlier this year. Two owners from new, the first owner sold it when they could no longer drive, and I purchased it from the 2nd owner when they could no longer drive. I have to pull every suspension component apart and replace the dust boots. I just purchased two big sets of universal dust boot on amazon/ebay/etc ..... You will likely find all of the suspension components are fine, but the dust boots are gone. I had to do everything, all of the droplinks, tie-rods, uppper/lower arm bearings, ball joints etc.... every single dust boot was just disitegrated (which will not pass a roadworthy).

you can see what I'm talking about here:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...covers-294608/

seeya
Shane L.