! have a 1992 XJ6 VDP. One day the drivers side low beam headlight would not work. The fuse is good, and I am getting FUSE2 error on the VCM, Any idea what it could be?

 

Hi, you have what's know as a XJ40, Jaguar used the XJ6 name for it even though it's almost a completely different car from the "Series 1, 2, 3" cars. To add more confusion they kept making XJ12s ( Series 3 XJ with V12 engine ) until 1992 for Canada after the new XJ40 replaced the XJ6 Series 3. A mod should be along shortly to move your post to the XJ40 section where I'm sure you'll find help for the problem.

Cheers,
Brian

 

Hi
try asking in the XJ-40 or X300 forums. This one is for XJ from 1968 to 1987 only.

maybe the low beam element is burned out?

 

Thanks you but I did test the bulb and its not burnt out.

 

replace the fuse, sometimes fuses look fine but they are not.

 

I have a 1992 Jaguar XJ6/XJ40 and getting Fuse 2 on my VCM. My left side low beam is out and the fuse related is in tact. I also swapped the bulb with the other side and the symptom followed the left side. Any idea what it could be?

 

When you did the bulb swap, do you mean the fault switched to the other side, or that the fault stayed on the same side as before?

 

Same side as before. Thanks.

 

do a continuity test on the fuse. it might "look" intact, but it might not be.

remove the connector at the back of the lamp, might be something as simple as corrosion at the terminals.

search for the meaning of the message popping up.

you have a "Digital" Jaguar, lots of digital circuits. Over here we have "Analog" Jaguars, a lot less complicated.

 

Thanks.

 

Michael
As the headlight relay is switching one light on, unless it is a dual circuit sort of affair, I am presuming that current is exiting the relay to the faulty light. If the fuse checks out OK (and again, if it is a single fuse for both dipped beams, it must do), having looked at the plug for corrosion etc, also check that the earth (ground) wire from the plug is earthing properly. Then finally check the wire from the headlight plug back to the relay or fuse unit, whichever comes first.
If the car has some sort of dual relay, one circuit for each side, then you should be able to determine if the dipped beam feed from it is faulty, once all the wiring and fuses have been Ok'd.

 

To thicken the plot.....

I'm pretty sure XJ40s have solid state headlight control modules.

This conversation needs to be moved to the XJ40 section

Cheers
DD

 

Good point Doug.

 

Thank you

 

Welcome to the forums Michael,

I've moved your post from XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III forum to XJ40 forum. This is the place to post technical questions about your model.

The XJ6 badging can be very confusing as six different models were badged this same way between 1968 to 2009.

Graham

 

Hi Michael,

Welcome to the XJ40 forum!

As Doug referenced, your car has solid-state Bulb Failure Modules (BFMs), one mounted near each headlamp, and one at each tail lamp. Just trace the wires from the bulbs back to the module. There are many possible causes of malfunctions, but start by finding the fuse that is blown and triggering the FUSE 2 warning. If I recall correctly, that warning indicates a blown fuse in the left A-pillar fuse box, but I may be wrong. Check your Driver's Handbook. Each BFM has at least two dedicated fuses, so check all of the fuses associated with front lighting. These will be in both the left and right A-pillar fuse boxes and possibly also in the center fuse box under the forward end of the center console arm rest. A fast way to check the fuses is by setting your meter to its lowest resistance range (e.g. 200 ohms) and touching the probes of the test leads to the metal tabs on each fuse. If your meter has an audible alarm that sounds when it detects continuity, you can test every fuse in the fuse box in less than one minute.

The relays for the headlamps are mounted on the circuit board inside the BFMs, and cold, cracked and starved solder joints are a known issue. Many of us have been able to repair these by re-flowing and supplementing bad solder joints.

The front left BFM is grounded at the stud on the left inner wheel arch. Corrosion on the ground studs, harness eyelet/ring terminals and star washers and nuts is a very common cause of difficult-to-diagnose gremlins, so clean all of the ground points in the engine bay at every tune-up, including the ones on the wheel arches, two on the intake manifold, one on the firewall/bulkhead behind the cylinder head, both ends of the engine ground strap, and any others you find.

Disconnect the connectors at the front left BFM and clean the pins in both halves with zero-residue electronic contact cleaner (CRC is a brand available at most auto parts stores). Blow dry with compressed air or allow to dry naturally, then reconnect.

Another known issue is the lighting logic unit near the steering column. There are separate outputs for all four headlamps and tail lamps so if you check out all of the above and can't find the issue, you might try a good salvaged lighting logic module.

You can download the wiring schematics for your car at the link below:

Jaguar XJ40 Electrical Guide 1991-1992

Cheers,

Don

 

Thank you very much. Is the electric layout the same for the 91 as the 92?

 

I would imagine the lighting setup would be very similar if not identical. The major changes came with the 93 model introduction.

With these cars, it's best to quote the VIN number rather than just the year, because many changes take place over the build years and not necessarily at model year intervals.

Most of us include the VIN in our signature files, that way, any help is far more specific.

If you aren't familiar with the parts catalog yet, this is an online source that defines the model year VIN changeovers etc.

parts catalog:
https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/

Larry

 

Yes. As far as I know there was not a separate guide for 1992. As Larry mentioned, the next major change came in 1993. The Electrical Guides are published by model year, not VIN, but the guide I posted the link to should be correct or mostly correct for your car.

 

Thanks again