This is for all you guys who love to drop their rides, fit coilovers, maybe bilstein shocks, roll bars and the like.
Maybe you've lowered your ride and would like to post up some pics to show it off and discuss? This is a more specific section for that purpose.

 

BUMP>>>>>

I'll keep checking this section regularly...If there is no interest and therefore not workable I'll remove it.

 

Don't!!!! We need this! Well, at least I need this....

 

Alright guys this is my X Type with H&R sport springs.

 

JaggyX, that looks good with the painted wheels! I like it! What was the drop on the H&R's? Are they a progressive rate spring? How long have you had them on there? Do your stock struts oscillate from the uprated spring rates?

 

thanks! the drop on the H&R's were about 1.4 inches and no the spring rate is not progressive to the best of my knowledge. I have had them on there for about 2 months now and i must say the handling has stiffened up a bit. But im still looking for more ways to stiffen the car up.

 

Did you have to change out the shocks with that drop as well? I'm looking for something for my "X" as well. I'd prefer progressive springs, though. I love the rims in your sig and the drop looks perfect!

 

nope, stock shocks. and thanks

 

Interested in aftermarket sway bars?

 

wow, really? where can I get some of those?!

 

I'm working on some options now. I'll get you an update when I know more.

 

Hi all;

I've got a 2003 X-Type. Still rides good, had the front lower control arms replaced a while back. However I do notice that over bumps/dips there is a "thunk" and squeak. Could this be the struts and/or shocks that need replacing?

Thanks in advance, Steve

 

hey was wondering if anybody has fitted xjr bilstein shocks and h & r sport lowering springs to their xj6 and had good results

 

I have a 1998 Vanden Plas. At extremely low speeds I hear a squeak on the left front. Happens occasional and is a very faint squeak. Some times sounds like a horn miles away? You would have to be listing to it to hear it

 

replaced stock shocks with kyb's on my 1995 x300
amazing how badly damaged were the foam bushings of the original shocks.
kyb's come with polyurethane bushings. ride is firmer ..definitely

right now i have 225/60-16 goodyear eagle gt but i am planning to install 255/50-16 goodrich in the back. as the other day i lost the rear end on a spirited curve.
will let you know how the 255's fare

 

So no posts since 2012. I just bought a 2016 F Type R. I wouldn't mind lowering it a bit but don't want to lose the functionality of the Dynamic mode. What springs would be compatible with this? Thank you.

 

Hey guys I'm still new 2 this site I'm still learnin how 2 navigate the forums I'm currently workin on the suspension on MY 2000 s type v6 3.0L it squeaks creaks and groans from every where it hurts so bad i love my Jag i cant let her break down everytime i turn its different noises from both the driver and passener sides there a tightening type of sound around the passenger dash and recently there is a rapid tapping sound comin from climate control area I've tried 2 download and purchase the repair manual but it's not working.so I figured I'd just start on the sway bar links and then balljoints I would really appreciate some help answers

 

I used to race cars back in the day over 20 years ago with SCCA and NASA with a pos but now that I am getting back into it with a good car, its so much different now. It used to be a fun thing and seems so serious now. Its hard to find specialists that will work on a Jag competently let alone modify one. The few people that work on Jags will only put OE parts on the car and look at you like a green alien when you want a performance part put on the car. That being said some of the R's are coming down in price to the point that someone could buy it and race it. I purchased a 2010 XFR in 2015 with 29k miles and it by far is the best car I have owned and top 5 driven. I got bit and contracted the modding bug and I have resisted itching it until now. I have full plans to go through the car and shore up the engineering faults first (cooling, diff/axle) and get the suspension sorted for track driving.

My plans are to get the XF R-S sway bar and springs and get some poly bushings in the suspension. I might have the stock bilstien B4's rebuilt too. I have already purchased some high carbon slotted rotors and track pads with 638 degree temp brake fluid to flush the brakes. I want to make some brake ducts for them too. I think the rotors are plenty big, I want to change out the calipers to a race oriented zero-drag setup with stainless lines. Since the e-diff has issues at the track, I found the best option was to replace it with a Ford 8.8 with a OS Giken Super-Lock limited slip differential. US Gears has the factory 3.31 ratio as stock with a RME finish to run cooler. I will run Driveshaft shop's billet pro axle's since the factory ones will snap with just sticky tires. Speaking of sticky, I want to uprate the fronts with new wheels to 275ZR20 NT01 in the front and a 315ZR20 NT01 in the Rear. That tire is the longest lasting "fast" track tire out there that can handle a heavy car.

From there I found the trans can be built as long as it is the ZF6HP26. Turns out the Ford 6R80 is the exact same transmission built by the exact same people (ZF) just rebranded and the 6R80 can be built with billet intermediate shafts and stage 2 clutches and billet solenoids in the valve body. There are over 3 diff shops that build Ford 6R80's. I am talking with Circle D to do mine.

With the suspension, brakes, axle's, diff and trans sorted, I can focus on the engine. My plans initially are all cooling biased. I want to improve the twin inter-coolers performance by adding a killer chiller to it. I found the best guys to work on the blower. They have a porting package and cooler for the blower to not get heat soaked. I am not going to run a pulley until I can get the car to not heat soak on a track with factory boost. I want to insulate the intake system. Wrap the exhaust headers. Make a special vented hood. Upsize the trans cooler and ps cooler. Get a custom big aluminum radiator. Change out all the plastic for 3d scanned/3dprinted metal pipes and crossover tubes, and make an threaded coolant block out of stainless with braided lines replacing all the plastic lines in the engine bay. Once I have an all metal coolant system and the car won't heat soak and turn down the power, I can work at replacing the blower with a Eaton R2650. That blower runs over 10 degrees cooler at the same boost as the stock blower. Easier to turn.

That should get the car at least running solid where I can string 20-30 min sessions on the track with it and enjoy myself enough to focus on my driving and not the car.

I have a dream goal of finding a OBDII capable reader that can stream gauges real time to the nav screen. That would be perfect. Monitor all the temps at once. Then a dry sump oiling system would be great for forgetting about the crappy oil system that is in the car.

If this grates you the wrong way doing all this to my car, perhaps you are lost in the wrong section of the forum and need to wander back to the "stock" problem threads to comment how stupid it is to depart from stock because I don't really give a flying #2 what you think about it. I paid for it and I will use it how I please. If I cared how unpractical it is to race my heavy car I would have asked for your permission lol.