Just got an update to this post. I did mine three years ago, and it's still holding strong. Looking back at it now...and after talking to several mechanics, I thing if we just loosen the bolts enough to drop the pan down 1/2 (don't worry about taking it all the way off) a liquid gasket product applied around the edged and sealed would have done the same job as the traditional gasket. Would have saved me a few hours of this mess. Good luck all!

Jeff Martin

 

Thanks Jeffmartinaz, but I can wait and already done drilled the hole and replace the gasket, may be I'll do that way with my next lover.

 

I agree, you don't have to remove any thing on top under hood (bonnet); Must remove the exhaust pipe section after catalyst converter, for the special tool, I made one from sacrificed a 13mm key, it work but the bolt too long and I can't cut it, so end up I have to drill the hole, laid down under the car and push the drill up is very tired arm job, I have posted the pictures how I used the floor jack to push the drill up some where in the forum same subject (don't remember where it was now) it work and do the job quicker.

 

Would that really work? Sounds good. I guess you would just have to apply the bead of liquid gasket maker carefully not to let any product go over the ledge and into the oil pan.

 

I'd never do it that way. I don't think the area could be cleaned good enough, then I'd never trust the sealant to be 100% where it needs to be. I think the old gasket could be reused if the pan came off all the way, then everything cleaned, then put sealant on the old gasket.


I did this job this winter. I had the transfer case off, I put on a 2003 viscous coupler transfer case on in place of the stock one. The pan gasket was easy once the transfer case was off. Turned out well. Used a new pan gasket and Ultra Black RTV.

 

Seems like such a big job to replace the oil pan gasket. I don't look forward to it, but, I do have a slow oil leak. I think I'll get a drip pan for my garage floor. Lol

 

I have an oil leak on my xj6 with 3.0 v6 engine. Can't find anything on that sub forum. Does anyone know if there is the same issue with the bolt hidden by thetransfer case ?

 

XJ6 is a rear drive car. It does not have a transfer case. Not sure what you were searching under on that forum, but I find it hard to believe no one ever started a thread about changing the oil pan gasket on there, if that is even the cause of your leak.

 

Stevis05, nice write off, but I got lost read half way down, if I have not done this job, read your write off could scare me off try to doing it! I replace mine last time did not remove any thing upper side, only the exhaust pipe from lower front catalyst converter and drilled the hole on TC bracket to access hidden bold

 

I recently replaced the gasket on my 2.5L. I followed the directions pretty close and was a great direction to go in. Unfortunately one of the studs in the catalytic converter were too worn down and the 13mm nut decided that it wanted to spin in place rather than come out. Rather than fight with it too much longer, I lifted the car on the subframe and loosened the front subframe bolts (very front of the car under the rad splash guard, where the subframe meets the chasis; 21mm bolt) one at a time and threading them back in just a couple of turns for safety, I then put jackstands under the frame rails and slowly dropped the subframe about an inch and a half and while my catalytic converter was slightly loose, the oil pan could be removed. Saved me tons of time. I attempted this after loosening the engine mount bolts and tried moving the engine slightly upwards (discovered my mount was worn down) but the cat still presented a challenge.

TLDR cat didn't want to come out, lowered subframe, removed oil pan.