'05 xtype 3.0 engine noise/ticking
#21
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
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James, depending on your year vehicle, some of the early X-TYpes actually have written in the owners manual to NOT use full synthetic oil. Based on experience, using either type of oil is fine in the engines. It is more getting a quality oil that doesn't break down on you (hence you need to make sure it meets the GF3 (ETC) requirements).
#22
#23
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#24
You can get a used x type engine for about $1,000, with <90k on it.
I hate to keep harping on this. But, the number one reason our engines fail, or any engine fails, is lack of upkeep or incorrect lubes. Our engines call for 5w-30, full synthetic oil. This stuff isn't cheap, (~$10-$15 a quart). I recommend Royal Purple or Amsoil full syn. (I've found that full syn. is some of the only stuff that meets ILSAC GF3, API SJ cert. which it calls for. And, my local dealership told me to only change it with full syn).
So everyone, if you keep blowing engines look at your maintenance schedule and what type of lube you're putting in it.
I hate to keep harping on this. But, the number one reason our engines fail, or any engine fails, is lack of upkeep or incorrect lubes. Our engines call for 5w-30, full synthetic oil. This stuff isn't cheap, (~$10-$15 a quart). I recommend Royal Purple or Amsoil full syn. (I've found that full syn. is some of the only stuff that meets ILSAC GF3, API SJ cert. which it calls for. And, my local dealership told me to only change it with full syn).
So everyone, if you keep blowing engines look at your maintenance schedule and what type of lube you're putting in it.
It was serviced at Jaguar for the first 60k. It now has 75k and I performed 2 oil changes myself using Royal Purple full syn...I can take a photo of the 7 quarts I have left sitting in my garage cabinet waiting for the next oil change if you like.
If you read the beginning of the post, you can see that this is (was) my wife's vehicle and it has been parked since I first heard the noise over 16-months ago. My cars are very well taken car of, hence I am still driving a 1992 Subaru Legacy as my daily driver to and from work.
Regarding $1,000 for a used engine with 90k...it makes no sense to spend that kind of money if it's only a broken rocker arm which would cost me $250 to change them all and have a 75k original engine in the vehicle.
This is the reason that I am looking for a methodical way to remove the valve covers to check the rocker arms.
Sorry to be an ***, but thanks for assuming I don't take care of my vehicles.
#25
91stealthes,
I never said anything about you specifically not following a service schedule, or not using the correct lubes. I said, the number one reason that our engines fail, or any engine fails is because people don't follow service schedules or use correct lubes. I never assumed anything...
Yes, the ticking you're experiencing is being caused by something mechanical in the engine. Your best bet would be to do a full rebuild on the engine, or buy a new one.
I never said anything about you specifically not following a service schedule, or not using the correct lubes. I said, the number one reason that our engines fail, or any engine fails is because people don't follow service schedules or use correct lubes. I never assumed anything...
Yes, the ticking you're experiencing is being caused by something mechanical in the engine. Your best bet would be to do a full rebuild on the engine, or buy a new one.
#26
91stealthes,
I never said anything about you specifically not following a service schedule, or not using the correct lubes. I said, the number one reason that our engines fail, or any engine fails is because people don't follow service schedules or use correct lubes. I never assumed anything...
Yes, the ticking you're experiencing is being caused by something mechanical in the engine. Your best bet would be to do a full rebuild on the engine, or buy a new one.
I never said anything about you specifically not following a service schedule, or not using the correct lubes. I said, the number one reason that our engines fail, or any engine fails is because people don't follow service schedules or use correct lubes. I never assumed anything...
Yes, the ticking you're experiencing is being caused by something mechanical in the engine. Your best bet would be to do a full rebuild on the engine, or buy a new one.
I'm just looking for tips so I don't remove parts that I don't need to. I've weighed all my options and it's probably not worth replacing the engine. I don't believe it's lower end noise as 2 bottles of Lucas didn't phase the noise at all. Hence, I believe I have a broken rocker arm. Why can't I see if that's the problem?
#27
Yeah Brother, if you would like to do it that way, do it. Honestly, I've only rebuilt about 7 engines in my life, (4 transmissions, about 5 rear/front ends), So in no way am I a super mechanic. 2 of those 7 engines were because of broken rocker arms. And 1 I had to pull back out of the truck and do a complete rebuild on, the other is still working great (460 Ford out of a '88 250 working great still, 350 chevy out of a '93 Silverado I had to pull back out.) It was just a lot of work. Now, I've never rebuilt the Jag motor, so you might be totally fine just replacing that one rocker arm. You might want to call around to different shops, not Jag dealerships, and see what they recommend you do. Again, I'm no super mechanic, but with the extra work involved on pulling that second motor out I now recommend a complete rebuild.
Sorry if there was any disrespect with the lube comment, I didn't mean any. My apologies.
Sorry if there was any disrespect with the lube comment, I didn't mean any. My apologies.
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