Okay I've posted on here before asking about some issues and nothing seemed to work but i havent been on here in a while so im making a new thread. So I have a 2002 Jaguar X-type 2.5 V6 and at higher speeds when i try to accelerate it jerks and check engine light blinks and says "cruise not available". I did get the codes tested a while ago at an auto zone and they are P1796, P1316, P1314. A car dealer took it to his mechanic and he said that it needed a new transmission and I took it to a transmission specialist and they said they dont think its the transmission and they gave me a piece of paper where they must have tested the codes and it said Bank 1 lean cyl. 2 misfire cyl. 4 misfire cyl. 6 misfire and random misfire. I dont know a whole lot but being all the even cyl. does that mean anything?? I replaced all the spark plugs and a new battery bout less than a year ago. Someone mentioned it could possibly be the coils? Ive checked the PCV hose where people say that is a common issue and its fine. Also brake booster hose looks fine. Also on another thread they suggested replacing the IMT valve O ring and that the older yellow o rings had issues and that they were recalled and replaced with thicker green ones. I checked them out and they are the thicker green ones and they look fine so i didnt replace them. Theres a jaguar specialist here and i talked to him and all he said was he wouldnt know for sure and theyd just have to start replacing things and just said to take it to a jaguar deal. but closest dealer is 4 hrs away and i can barely drive the car on the highway so thats not really an option. Help please if you know anything i can try. THANKS!

 

Well here's a shot in the dark, and not exactly easy, but have you tried swapping coils bank to bank and see if the fault codes follow the coils or do the codes stick to cyl 2,4, and 6?

 

No I havent tried that. Im not really mechanically inclined so I would have to take it somewhere to get that done. Which I can do.. thats why Im posting on here to get some opinions on what to do because everywhere I take it they seem to give me no answers. So that may be something I have to try.

 

P1796 means that there is either a wiring fault in the Controller Area Network (CAN)wiring to the Transmission Control Module (TCM), or if your unlucky, a faulty TCM. (New transmission not required!!) It could well be just a loose or bad wiring connector.The car then defaults to being fixed in 4th gear.

P1313 is Bank 2 Misfire with the potential to damage Bank 2 Cat
P1316 is a misfire causing excess emissions - normally accompanied by codes for individual cylinder misfires that you don't seem to have although suggested to be cyls2,4 and 6.

Diagnosis of the actual cause needs elimination of a range of possible causes. Jaguar lists these as:

Cylinder compression low
Worn camshaft / broken valve spring(s)
Fuel delivery pressure (low / high)
Fuel injector(s) restricted / leaking
Fuel injector(s) continuously open
Fuel contamination
Fuel injector circuit fault(s)
(Injector DTCs also flagged)
Spark plug failure / fouled / incorrect gap
ECM to ignition coil primary circuit fault
(Cylinder misfire detected DTC also
flagged)

Ignition coil failure

Most of these are less likely than failed coilpacks (1,2 or 3!), but a good scanner should specify which coil packs are underperforming to avoid guesswork.

 

Dremanti -

Have your battery checked. Make sure the amperage is checked, not jus the volts. I've had 2 bad batteries that both read 12volts, but the amperage was extremely low. Both went bad within a year. Worhtless Dural*st batteries.

 

One more thing I forgot to mention, a while back I ran some fuel cleaner through it and i almost remember the issue appearing a little while after I did that. Would that cause any issues at all? I've noticed in other posts that it may clog an injector or fuel filter?

 

Dremanti - Check the wiring harness that connects to the throttle body. Make sure all 4 wires are attached and secure. A shot in the dark here, but worth a look.

If that's ok, the you need to complete the list of common issues:

1 - vacuum leaks
2 - check ribbed hose from PCV to intake for a split. Make sure it is a ribbed one.
3 - Replace the upper and lower intake manifold gaskets - 12 total. the 6 below the fuel rail are slightly different than the upper ones.
4 - clean or replace the MAF sensor.
5- check the battery amperage. These kittens are sensitive to electrical power.
6 - IMT Valve gaskets, but I think you stated that you covered this one.

You can do a shade tree mechanic trick on the intake manifold gaskets. Get a can of WD-40 and spray a mist around the location of the gaskets. Do one at a time and listen for a change in engine RPM. IF you hear the motor change pitch, you have a bad gasket.

If these are all good, then follow Astromorg's advice. Good Luck.

 

Alright will try this stuff. Thanks. I'll let ya know how it works out.

 

I think I've got the same problem with my 2002 / 2.5L / X-type. I bought it a couple of months ago. For the first few weeks it was fine and then things started happening - wouldn't go over 3000 rpm without problems. I replaced the 'O' rings on the intake manifold and the air flow sensor which stopped the 3000 rpm problem. I had already changed the spark plugs just after I got the car (I have to add that was a surprise ...) and the battery is new. I also checked voltage with the engine running and everything on and got 14.6 volts.

Anyway, now I'm having somewhat of the same problem as described. I can drive mine up to a good speed, up to 4500 - 5000 rpm for a little while but it will eventually cut-out and the engine light starts to blink and the cruse control is disabled. I slow up; let the blinking engine light settle down and everything comes back, light goes out and even my cruse control works again. I've got a code reader but it's not giving me any numbers.

I'm thinking it's a timing problem because just before the engine starts to cut out, it seems like I can feel the engine running rough like it's mis-firing and then (maybe) the computer is shutting the engine down. So my next try is going to be the upper knock sensor. I just wish I had changed it when I put in the new plugs

Rob in Colorado, USA