I was trying to fuel the car on a very cold day with freezing rain and the fuel door would not open. Thinking that there was some ice holding it, I tried prying it open and ended up breaking the arm.


I glued the arm back and seems like it is solid and closed the fuel door and now it will not open; I am thinking now that the fuel door handle by the front seat had not been releasing the door and had created the original problem. Yes, I should have checked the latch before closing the door but it is too late for that now.


It feels like the handle by the driver's seat is not releasing the latch. Does any one have procedure to check the cable? Will removing the scuff plate trim by the front door show the handle mechanism which I would think is the first thing to check? Any picture or videos on how to do this?


Any help you can provide will be greatly appreciated.

 

I think it would be easier to remove the inner trunk lining near the fuel door, for diagnosis, and opening the door. Many fuel releases have a second emergency one near the fuel door, and if you have someone use the primary release handle, while you are watching in the trunk, you will see if the cable is moving.....Just my 2 cents......Be cool....Mike

 

The cause of this problem is not likely to be the cable: it is the release spring at the filler door itself. Slamming the door shut or other unintentional abuse (and the mention of cold conditions is suggestive) can cause the spring to be out of alignment with the latch on the door.
Cure: have someone hold the release lever up while you put the edge of a credit card at the latch end of the door to pry it open. Once the door is open look carefully at the spring mechanism and gently bring the door to an ALMOST closed position - you will see how the spring has to be re-bent to grasp the latch. Once that is done the problem is solved.
I know the above from experience on my 2002 X-Type, it happened ONCE eleven years ago, and never since. The fuel filler door should just be "snicked" closed. Nothing on a Jaguar should be slammed.

 

SOV211


You are absolutely correct. Yesterday I had someone hold the lever while I used a credit card (great minds think alike) and I was able to open the fuel door. It looks like when I glued the door together I did not do a perfect job and the door now point slightly down and it is not perfectly aligned with the receiving latch mechanism and when I close the door the latch forces the door up slightly and prevent it from popping out when the lever is pulled.


Also, I noticed a couple of holes on the door hinge, is there supposed to be a spring there? I wonder if there was one there, that pushes the door open, that fell off when the door broke. I will see if I can adjust the receiving mechanism so they align. As a last resource I am thinking I can place a piece of foam that compresses when the door closes and pushes the door out when the handle is released or maybe I just need to add a spring to the door???


Thanks again for confirming the issue for me.

 

There is no spring at the hinge or on the door - the spring is in fact the release spring on the car body which just needs to be "massaged" so that it when the door is shut, it shuts against this spring. When the cabin release is pulled the spring action of this bit of metal will push the door slightly open - enough for the operator to grasp it and open it fully.

 

I have it where I can pull the lever and the go to the back and open it with credit card without having to hold the lever up. I was hoping there was a spring that pushes the door out. If I cannot get it to open I might rig up some sort of spring that is pushed in when the door is closed and pushes out when the lock is released. Thanks of the info, it made absolute sense.

 

I think you can resolve this: look at the two photos attached; the second photo shows the spring latch. The first shows the door in its "resting" position - in this position it is just lightly pressing against the spring and you can feel tension as you very gently press it.
If you do NOT feel that spring pressure then the curved spring must be bent outwards to increase its pressure.
One more thing. Look closely at the plastic sill where the door closes: on examination you will see that there are two grooves which act as guides, top and bottom into which a small bar on the door must slide - these bits are small, so look carefully. If the door is properly aligned, the bar slides into this groove and it will press against the spring properly. The door on your car might need just a bit of alignment as you "snick" it closed - and I do mean "snick": the lightest pressure should close and latch the fuel door - it must not be slammed!

 

My problem is that when I glued the door together I obviously did not do a good enough job and the door leans down slightly and the latch on the door rubs against the receiving "shelf/guide" enough that the door does not really pop out since the small springs are not strong enough to overcome the friction between the door latch and the guide. For the time being I have placed a piece of foam that is compressed when the door is closed and pushes the door out when the latch is released; pretty rudimentary solution but it works. I need to think of a more "elegant" solution.


Thanks for your help, it certainly made the process easier to understand.