Hello Forum,


I'm a new member having just purchased a 2002 Type X 3.0 with 135K.


Currently, the car is starting, running rough for a few minutes, and then displaying the cruise not available light and the flashing engine lights. Errors are P0300, P1314, and P1000 (Not too worried about P1000). To restart, I need to pump the gas a few times but it will not say running.


History;


Bought it with a fuel temperature fault code and the cruise not available flashing. Ran a bit rough but was driveable.


Replaced the fuel temp sensor, both upper and lower intake manifold gasket sets, PVC and PVC hose, rubber O-rings on the potentiometers, sparkplugs, coils, checked/confirmed the two vacuum lines and the valve on the brake line. Also cleaned all electrical grounds, cleaned/inspected injectors, and inspected wiring harness to all the coils. Cleaned the MAF and made sure there were no air leaks and changed the fuel and air filters.


I'd like to ask the members if they have any ideas how I should proceed. I've searched the forums pretty well and would like ideas as to how to proceed. Thanks for your help

 

Yikes. P1314 is catalyst damage bank 2, which could be trouble. I'd start with basics: Is your battery good? You should have 12.6v static. Then, battery connections clean and secure, including good ground? Next I would check fuel pressure; there's a Schrader valve on the fuel rail. Engine does not have to run, just fuel pump. BTW, you mention changing fuel temperature sensor. I wasn't aware there was one; you didn't mean fuel pressure sensor did you?

 

Yes, the battery is good and was checked. The fuel sensor I replaced is on the rail not far from the Schrader valve. I assume it is the pressure sensor. I'll get a fuel pressure tester and see what it gives me. Would it throw P1314 if there was no spark on bank 2 and unburned fuel resulted? Thanks for your quick response

 

Believe the sensor you replaced on fuel rail was for pressure, not temperature. I think a fuel pressure check is logical next step. You might also want to pull bank 2 spark plugs and check them over.

 

+1 on pulling out the plugs and checking there condition and gap. By the way pumping the accelerator doesn't provide fuel it only opens the butterfly in the throttle body allowing more air.
Getting the fuel pressure reading is important. Install the gauge and turn the key to the run position without starting the engine. The pump will run for a few seconds and then shut off but you will have the reading. Code 300 is a random misfire and is not registering any particular cylinder. The misfire seems to affect the O2 sensor on bank 2 the most.
I suspect that the fuel pressure may be high and the pressure regulator is bad. Excessive fuel pressure will cause the injectors to leak. It is possible but unlikely that the fuel return like is plugged.

 

Swingwing and Avern1, thanks for your help.


The plugs are new and gapped properly. I've cleaned the ground points and did the fuel pressure test which showed 50psi key on without starting. I found another pressure regulator and installed it with no change. Are there any other ideas out there?


thanks again

 

The next step I think would be to get a reading of the fuel trims both short term and long term.
Take the reading at idle, 1500 and 2500 RPM. I suspect them to be leaning on the positive side even though you aren't throwing a P0171 or P0174 code. If you find that the readings are generally staying on a high positive side then report back and we can start the hunt for vacuum leaks.

 

Post #2 https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...n-cold-172601/

 

Sorry about the delay. I haven't got the fuel trims yet but, as for vacuum, the upper and lower intake gaskets were replaced, the O-rings on the sensor on the left side were replaced, the PVC hose was replaced, the brake line was checked and is not leaking, and the vacuum lines in the top of the intake are tight. The MAF was also cleaned and a new PCV valve and air filter are fitted. Again, new coils and spark plugs. The car starts right up when cold but quickly bogs down running rough. I have to feather the accelerator to keep it running and in a matter of a minute or so the engine light flashes , "cruise not available" illuminates, and the engine needs to be revved to keep from dying.


I'm thinking maybe the MAF is just bad or a cat is plugged but am not seeing those codes thrown. Any ideas?


thanks

 

The tool needed costs almost nothing so check those trims. You are SHORT of data and parts swapping is costly.

 

Do you have a OBD scanner that can read live data ?

Firstly what make of coil packs did you use, and have you changed all 6 ?

Fuel trims will be the first place to start with a random misfire, if you reset all codes this will set fuel trims to 0.

When looking at the live data, the short term fuel trim will be positive if there is a vacuum leak or fuel shortage (ECU tries to add fuel), and negative if there is excess fuel. These come from the upstream O2 sensors, the post cat O2 sensors check for excess fuel post cat and will be part of the logic that throws the cat damage code.

It would appear that you probably have excess fuel in the exhaust, this can be a faulty O2 sensor telling the ECU it is lean and asking for more fuel, this could then be too much and causing random misfires (wet plugs) or it can be a faulty plug or coil pack. (Even brand new cheap coil packs can be faulty)

I had a similar issue recently which was a faulty coil pack, but it was affecting one complete bank.

let us know what you find.

 

Thanks TilleyJon,


Replaced all 6 coils with BWD coils from Pep Boys. I'm picking up a scanner tonight which I will use to get the fuel trim info. I was able to pull a coil from the front bank when it was running and didn't notice any change. I'm starting to suspect the O2 sensor on that side. I'll check back in when I have the trim info.


thanks again

 

I had a situation recently that led me a dance, following JTIS procedures after I was getting nowhere fast led to faulty ECU, I had a feeling that this was not the problem and spoke to an ex Jag senior Tech who said change coil packs, but do not get cheaper alternatives, get Denso or Delphi.
He had had a Jag X Type in that had new coils fitted, bit was having random misfire, it turned out to be a faulty "new" coil that was causing the problem.

See what the fuel trims are and report back, also check the live data for the O2 sensors upstream and downstream, you will see if there are differences between the 2 upstream sensors or the 2 post cat sensors, that will indicate if 1 or more of the sensors is off.

let us know what you find.

Jon

 

All,


So, it looks like I have good compression (around 165) in all cylinders except a big "0" in what I believe is #4 (center on radiator side). When I pull the #4 plug the car starts right up and, other than being down 1 cylinder, runs fine. I see no movement internally via the #4 sparkplug hole when the car is running and, with the engine off, was a able to insert a tool and push down on what I believe is the top of the piston. So, any ideas to aid in determining the root cause and how to best attack this?


thanks again for your assistance

 

Blimey Bulldog, sounds like the piston is detached from the crank, I can't believe you haven't had massive engine failure.

Just to be clear, you could actually push the piston down in the bore ?

If that is the case and by some fluke the piston was at the top of the stroke and everything missed you will be very lucky. DON'T start the engine again if you have pushed the piston down the bore, you will definitely end up with a mess !

I would look at dropping the sump off to see what you find, if the big end bearing cap and nuts are sat in the bottom of the sump and there is no other damage you will be the luckiest guy I have ever known.

 

Wow, this is getting interesting.