Whilst driving my speedo went haywire and my ABS light and EML came on, after reading fault codes I identified C1165 as my rear right reluctor ring.

I checked the outer CV at the weekend and the ring was indeed missing, which I believe is pretty common. I ordered a new reluctor ring and here's where the fun starts...

I removed the caliper and disc, the top arm holding the hub and had plenty of play to pull the hub forwards, then slackened the 32mm centre CV retaining nut and proceeded to try and knock it out. 2 hours later and with one severely mushroomed CV spindle from the hammering, I gave up as it hadn't budged a millimeter, but I do have 2 prongs which dropped out of somewhere.

I have 3 questions:-

1) Is there anything other than the nut retaining the outer rear CV and stopping it from pushing back?

2) Two prongs/teeth which appear to be cast iron, dropped out during the severe beating I gave the shaft; I've not been able to find a clue of where these came from other than they dropped right under the hub (see pictures attached to this post). Presumably the indentation in the edge of the teeth which can be seen in some photos, reflects my prowess with a lump hammer and my level of frustration. Can anyone tell me where these came from and what they're for? Also, is there a risk not having them and driving the car?

3) If I cut the reluctor ring and epoxy it to the outer CV, therefore not needing to remove the spline, will this work? (I guess it'd have a small gap in the ring from the cut when I'm done).

Currently, I tightened the nut and put everything back together and all seems fine, but I still have the ABS light on and no ABS brakes or cruise control.

 

Did you release the rear hub retaining bolts (4 of). I assume from your description that you have 4WD.
Please update your signature via the User CP menu.

Roger

 

I have a 3.0 AWD, not sure why it doesn't appear, maybe I need to add the details in another place in the CP menu?

I released the top suspension arm so the whole hub had plenty of play to pull forwards and I wedged a bar in its place to provide room for movement, but I didn't release the hub retaining bolts as I'd expected the CV to slide out of the back.

Is there something additional to the main 32mm CV/Hub nut which retains the CV?

 

First if you go to User CP and drop down the left to Edit Signature you can input your car details there.

There is nothing else holding the drive shaft in the hub. Knocking hell out of the shaft will damage the inner joint. Use a puller.

Roger

 

Thanks for confirming. Do you think bonding the new reluctor ring will work, as there's really no other reason to remove the CV?

I think if I disassemble now, I'll probably have to replace the hub and drive half shaft, as I've watched a few videos of siezed CV's and I don't have the equipment to remove it if it's completely stuck, here's one example

 

The only problem with bonding the reluctor ring is that the gap between the ring and the sensor would be reduced and may damage the sensor.

Roger

 

Thanks for the advice Roger, when I get a clear few hours and a decent day I'll pull it out and may try and get to it from the rear... the backup plan with be the new hub and half shaft. Do you have any idea where those teeth may have come from? I can't see anything which could have sheared and it's really puzzling. Cheers. Joe

 

I agree, I have no idea what they could be unless they are guiding pins of some sort.
I cannot believe your hub is in the same state as that Mitzubishi and the tools they were using are well outside the sort of things we would have lying around Haha.
Plenty of penetrating oil may result in it moving bu as you have released the whole leg as opposed to just the hub the stability has been lost. A normal three legged puller would normally suffice. You are trying to hammer the drive shaft against the diff which will not go as the hub needs to be pulled. If you tried to push the hub from behind you will just release the shaft from the diff.

Roger

 

Is the hammer that you used really old with a wooden handle? I think that those are the wedges used to keep the hammer head on the handle. If so, then you should pound them beck in place so the head does not come flying off! Pete.

 

I have done both sides of mine now and didn't have any problem getting the outer CV joint out of the hub, do the splines look seized and rusty? When you tap the CV joint out, you should leave the 32mm nut on there loose so you don't damage the thread. Can you still get the nut on the joint?

The first one, I took the whole shaft off and did it on a vice. The other one though, I just took the outer CV joint of the hub, left it hanging there and fitted the ring in situ. On both of mine I used epoxy resin just to make sure they don't come off again. I think you'll struggle fitting it with the joint still in the hub though but it should be possible.

 

Jagger, no those wedges are definitely from the car, not the hammer...
Topanga, thanks for the info, the only thing I didn't do was release the hub nuts, so I'll try removing the hub next time I have time. I left the nut on loose when trying to knock out the CV and just tightened it back up when the CV wouldn't budge. The end of the spline is mushroomed, but I can grind it off and should be able to get the nut off. I'm leaving it for now until we get some nice weather and I forget what a b"#%ch it was the first time then I'll strip the hub and see if I can make headway.

Did you use a hub puller on the side you did on the car?

Another thought was maybe I could remove the driveshaft from the CV at the rear, fit the reluctor ring then put the driveshaft back on and the CV boot, but I'm not sure how difficult it would be to try and remove the driveshaft from the CV in-situ? Any ideas?

 

I followed this guide which you can get here.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...lacement-1982/

Not sure you'd get the driveshaft off the CV to be honest, but could be wrong.

 

Thanks, I looked at this guide too, but as I wasn't going to change the whole CV joint, I worked up to the minimum I could get away with to replace the reluctor ring alone. It may be a while (especially with the awful weather we're having) before I'll get another crack at it.

 

I also have an ABS problem that I have not gotten to yet. If my ring is bad I was going to us a Dremel cut off wheel (very thin) and split the ring then silver solder it back together in place. I would think some silicone gasket maker would be good for holding it in place as it does not dry hard.

Just thinking...

 

You'll likely find that as in my case that when you check it, the ring has gone, as it corrodes and falls off, there was no sign of my old one. You can purchase a new one (got mine for £1.40 off eBay JAGUAR X-TYPE ABS RING-ABS RELUCTOR RING-DRIVESHAFT ABS RING | eBay), but when I went to remove the CV to install it, that's where the fun started. I'd be interested to see how you get on and if you can see where the wedges which dropped out of mine came from?

 

I also have this problem.

Mines a JAGUAR X-TYPE V6 SE 2495cc PETROL, 4 Door SALOON with the ABS light on. C1165 and C1175 error codes! After inspecting both rear reluctor rings on the half shafts I can see one is broken and the other is gone !

So I have ordered new ones but have no idea how to fit them. It appears the half shaft has to come out but can anyone help point me in the right direction?

Many thanks in anticipation

 

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...lacement-1982/

Video of a bad ring =

 

So I got the half shaft out. Disconnected all the bolts from the suspension except the shock absorber. Removed the 32mm hub nut and tapped the spline shaft (gently, ish) and out it popped. Now I need the new reluctor ring and I can put it all back together

 

Man that installation site is rusty as all get out!! Clean that sucker up before the new ring.