So, I have an '03 2.5L X Type. So I replaced the condensor, drier, compressor, orifice tube and O rings. Filled the compressor with the correct amount of Pag oil and vacuumed system. Went to charge with 134A and the compressor wouldn't kick in. I checked all the fuses and swapped out the compressor relay and nothing. I jumped the relay and the clutch kicked in but was not taking in any refrigerant. Also I noticed the fans were not on. Any ideas?

 

Which port are you attempting to recharge the refrigerant through?

 

Hi italcarnut,

An old-timer trick when charging an empty system is to inject about 1/2 can (6 ounces) of refrigerant into the high-side port while holding the can upside down. This will get some liquid refrigerant into the system to quickly build sufficient pressure for the low pressure switch to re-enable the compressor clutch. Once the clutch kicks in, immediately close the high side valve on your manifold gauge set and do the rest of your charge via the low side valve/port, holdind the refrigerant cans upright or rocking them between upright and horizontal, but never tipping them upside down again. It can also help to sit the can of refrigerant in a pan of hot water to resist the can's tendency to ice up.

Don't forget to bleed the air out of the hose that connects the refrigerant can to your manifold gauges before opening the high- or low-side valves to charge the vehicle system.

Cheers,

Don

 

I am charging through the low port. High side closed. I was wondering if I left some connector off. like a trinary switch or something. Where would that be located. Don, interesting idea about opening the high side to get the compressor going, however I jumped the relay and the compressor was on and still it took no refrigerant. Weird.

 

The compressor can't create suction in a properly vacuumed system, so it takes the pressure from the refrigerant can (or 30-pound bottle) to force enough refrigerant into the system to get things started. One thing to check is that your refrigerant can tap is properly opening the can. The valves on the new "self sealing" cans tend to not open fully and sometimes it helps to actually back off the knob on your tap valve until refrigerant flows. Another thing to be aware of is that the old-style needle-point piercing valves do not work with the new self-sealing cans. You need a revised blunt-tip valve to open the seals on the new cans.

Cheers,

Don

 

Hi Don. I did find out about the new style can, the hard way. So I switched to the old style since I also had a few of those. The low side gauge shot up to the three o'clock position on a clock. And still no suction. Hmmmm.

 

Are you sure you have your valves set correctly? High side off, vacuum valve closed, low side valve open and refill valve open?

 

Im not sure what the vacuum and refill valve are, but the valves at the high and low side ports at the firewall open, valves at the gauge low side open, high side closed and middle line to freon can open at the can. Am I doing it right?

 

 

Sorry, I forget that most folks have manifold gauge sets with two valves and two hoses. I use a Mastercool gauge set with four hoses and separate valves for Vacuum and Refill:



If you're doing it the same as the Chris Fix video Dell posted, it should work. Notice the direction he turns the the valves on the port connector fittings to open them...

Cheers,

Don

 

Thanks for the video. Chris Fix always has great videos. I did everything he said before since I had seen this a few times. Not only that but I have the same manifold and vacuum pump. I noticed when he opened up the low side on the manifold the needle went up to the 12 oclock position and then the freon started flowing and the pressure came down. Mine goes up to the 3 oclock position and stays there. As if there is an obstruction. I will try it again today though.

 

It is possible your can tapping valve has not pierced the can well or the needle valve is not opening sufficiently after you pierce the can then turn the valve out to allow refrigerant to flow.

 

Good point however before opening the low side valve on the gauge I let some gas escape at the yellow hose to remove any air in the hose.

 

If the can is not pierced to the full diameter of the tap valve's needle, then the needle fully retracted from the hole, you may get some refrigerant flow, but not the full pressure from the can, which is typically 70 - 80 psi, depending on ambient temperatures. You can place the refrigerant can in a pan of hot water to help the refrigerant expand and enter your A/C system under greater pressure.

 

For what it may be worth I just went through a fan / AC problem where the R5 relay was intermittent and caused the fans to shut down and the AC clutch to cycle every few seconds.
On my Type X i was able to test by swapping the R5 and R7 relays.