So first i have to deal witht heupper radiator hose having a leak - not adressed yet, i know i should get on. But know i have another issue not as major but a pain in the ****.

So i fille dmy washer fluid resovoir last nigt, right up tothe top, where the line indicates. And closed it, drove to try outs came home. And parked it for the night.

NEXT moring i come into the garage and find a big puddle under the passenger side wheel, just in front of the wheel, and i walk over and smeel the liguid, smella like washer fluid. Now i know theres leak somewhere in there becuase when i opene dthe hood to check, the resovior looked empty, but i had no indication on the dash it was empty, plus teh washers still worked. This isn't eh first time its happend ethier


now that the essya is done. I know theres a leak, the only way to solve this is to pull the resovoir out, and physically take a look. How do i go about this? any other suggestions would be help full too.

 

Disco, to remove the reservior, you will need to slide the ABS module out of the way. Then you need to remove the support bracket for the ABS module. Now, you will need to remove the front wheel and the wheel liner. From there, you can access the side of the reservior. You will need to disconnect the hose leaving the reservior. Then you will need to undo the 3 bolts holding the reservior in place. Don't forget to disconnect the power plug for the pump first.

 

so in other words pretty much i have to pull almost everything out from the right side of the car, to get to it. And the abs module, any special instructions such as disconnect. Im going to try and see if i can get a light down there and maybe get a better idea of what leaking, maybe ahose just came lose

 

Fix your upper rad hose first man! Let's prioritize here.

I know on some cars the neck of the washer fluid reservoir pulls off. Never checked the X type but on my Saab it pulls off so you can get to the front headlight bulb. Perhaps it has a leak there if it indeed is two pcs.

Yep check the hoses first. You could fill the tank with water also and put a little food coloring in there as a type of dye test to help find the leak once you have the ABS out out of the way.

 

If its not crack from hitting the bottom which normally leaves it empty. Then it either the neck, (dont fill all the way up) or 1 of the gromets that house the sensor or pump. All easy and cheap fix(for a jaguar)

 

Yeah, the rad hose is a pain int he *** though, they want 600 to replace it, but th hose i can get for 120 bucks, but i really don't know what i doing, i wil get it down soon.... i hope. But the leak, i think its a small leak, before i add water to it, should i drain it just so i don't get a weird colour coming out? But im going to check it out in ahour, ill let u guys know what i see,

 

Disco, YES!!! Drain the coolant from the radiator before you pull that hose. If not, you are going to get a surge of coolant going everywhere and I doubt much of it will end up in a pan (more than like more will be on you than in a pan). The other tidbit that I will say just because is that you need to make sure that the engine is ice cold before you pull the hose. You won't hurt the car if the engine is hot, but how do you like touching 200F/90C water? I know I don't.

 

well, im going to just bite and pay the stupid shop, but the washer hose i can fix, same wit the replacement air cabin filter, and then everything as far as i know it good.

 

these are the pics, no how to remove the module with out daagmaing the lines, all the module, as it appears looks like is a few allen keys, but what about eh steel lines running from it, what do i do with those, do i simply disconnect them or what.

I couldn't get my crappy phone camera into the spot lol, but it appears that the white, resovoir, where we fill it with washer fliud, the one with theblue cap, seal has some how become damaged or dis alinged, i didn't even need to do a disgnostics test ( water with food coloring) you can see the wet spot were the fluid had been. and i have the go ahead to repair it, this weekend, should i just seal it with some glue or something???

 

I think it is easier to remove the front bumper cover to get at the washer bottle.
As long as your car is not too rusty, it is just a bunch of screws and then you have 100% clear access to the bottle.

 

Disco, thinking about it, why you are removing the ABS module doesn't seem to make sense. I would try simply getting into the wheel well and going after the bottle that way. It may be possible to get the bottle out without tearing a lot of stuff apart.

As for removing the bumper cover, that is how the JTIS says, but it may be possible to simply pull it out by getting at it via the fender well. Up to you. I know pulling off the bumper cover isn't that bad. I've had mine off a few times for various projects.

 

already, so in that sence, i would have to remove the tire and fender wall, as u said, but now my question is, won't that affect the balnce/ alignment of the wheels, and how much should i tighten the wheel bac on, torque wise, i don't have a torque wrench.

 

Disco, removing the rim/tire from the car and putting it back on will not affect the balance of the tire. So, remove and install tires all day long and you won't have an issue.

As for tightening the wheels back on to the car, I would personally recommend going up to the local auto parts store and they sell a torque wrench capable of going up to like 150 ft-lbs or so for around $50 (CDN). I use it a lot for when I rotate my own tires and when I am doing suspension/engine work. A lot of things on the car are supposed to be torqued. As far as the wheels, they are supposed to be torqued to 100 ft-lbs. Now, with that being said, the big thing is to make sure that all the lugs are tightened to roughly the same torque. If you only have a star bar, what you want to do is tighten the lug nuts until the wheel is on firmly (ie, no place between the hub and the wheel). Now, using a star pattern, tighten the lug nuts an additional 1/8 of a turn or so. What you are wanting to feel is the lug nut start pushing on the rim (sandwiching it in place) and then go just a little bit more. The big thing is to make sure that the strain you put on one lug nut is nearly the same put on the other 4. Having the lugnuts on the same wheel with significantly different torques on them can lead to warping of your rotors.

If you want to get fancy, you can measure the length of your wrench from the center of where it ratchets to the end. So, lets say your wrench is 15 inches long (1.25 feet). You can then use a 80 pound weight and hang it off the end of the wrench. This will apply your 100 ft-lbs of torque. The big thing with doing it this way is making sure that the wrench is parallel to the ground as you attach the weight. Then, once you get a feel for how tight that is, you can do the other 4 by feel.

 

yeah, i way back in mechanics class in grade 9, the drunk mechanic told me that each turn of the star wrench was equalient to one torque, some how i didn't gt it but went with it, il just go with yours though. But i'd like to get at it fromt he top, i know im being stubborn, but its would be much easer for the tool and time i have availble, so how should i remove, or move out of the way the metal lines that go to the module. Should i know anything about these lines

 

Disco. when it comes to the metal lines, the key is not trying to bend them at all. You can flex the lines some (ie, move them slightly to get them out of the way). But, if you are deforming them, that is bad. How far can you flex them before you deform them, hard to say as that is dependent on the type of material that they are made out of.

Taking a closer look at the JTIS instructions, the part for removing the ABS module is only if you are trying to remove the filler neck. If all you are wanting to do is remove the tank, then don't worry about the ABS module. All of the bolts for the tank are accessed behind the bumper cover. Now, whether you remove the bumper cover or not is up to you. Removing the bumper cover will make accessing the tank easier, but is also having to disassemble more. As for which way is quicker, that all depends on how good you are at getting your hands in tight places and what tools you have available to you.

 

well, im going into it today, the jtis, doesn't want to work with my computer somehow, but i would just like to remove the neck, apply a glue and put it back to fix the leak, its that simple, from wha ti see. And i have the regualr household tools availible.

 

Disco, I would take a look and see if it is possible to slip a wrench of some sort along the edge and possibly undo the nut that way. Might save you a bit of disassembly. Other than that, based on what you are describing, is the leak in the neck or is it in the bottle? Sounds like a crack in the bottle to me. But then, you may be able to see the crack where I am just making some assumptions.

 

just curious whats running through the lines