X-Type ( X400 ) 2001 - 2009
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Auto Transmission Module Location?

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Old 01-28-2011, 11:35 AM
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Default Auto Transmission Module Location?

My '04 has shown Transmission Fault twice now.

It tends to be intermittent and goes off and runs fine for a bit.

I remember reading that moisture and/or corrosion at the plug to the tranny module can cause this.

I just can't seem to locate the actual module though.

Is it behind the plastic kick plate cover to the left of the fuse block and below the OBDII port where the bonnet release is? Or is behind the cover under the steering wheel where it's marked "AIRBAG"?

I can't even get that kick plate cover to come off. Any help in how the cover is removed would also help.

Before taking it to the Jag dealer to charge me just to dry it out, I figured I'd try cleaning and drying it myself first.
 
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Old 01-28-2011, 03:57 PM
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Behind the kick plate left side by the fuse box. mounted on a medal plate, its a bit of a job to get it out, once disconnected you take it off the plate and you can pop the top off. Clean all the connections, but you obviously have a moisure leek. Ever had the windshield replaced? Whoever replaced mine the first time didn't seat the windshield properly and right at the bottom corner is dripped onto the harness then onto the TCM.
 
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Old 01-28-2011, 04:25 PM
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Thanks for the reply!

I don't think I have any leaks, but I have those rubber winter mats and there's quite a bit of moisture on the driver's side from all the snow.

Do I have to remove that plastic kick plate to gain access to it? I can't seem to get the kick plate to budge...the bonnet release lever goes through the plastic plate I'm referring to.

The JTIS doesn't do much good in how to remove the kick plate or in locating the module....it just shows a diagram of it and says to remove the wiper moisture sensor first get to the TCM.
 
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Old 01-28-2011, 04:43 PM
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IIRC the windshield sensor is screwed over the TCM, its a smaller box, yes kick panel off, it was a bit of a puke, I discnnected the hood latch and then it came off easier, can't remember because I did it the once then got mad and took it back to the dealer who had just replaced the TCM under warranty.

In the 16 miles or whatever to the dealer every single light was on the dash and no guages worked, including the speedo and was all interrelated.
 
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Old 01-28-2011, 09:18 PM
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Thanks a MILLION Sidewalkman!!!
 
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Old 01-29-2011, 01:03 PM
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Well, I finally got the plastic kick panel removed, but there were no boxes of any type behind it. The only things behind that kick panel are bundles of wires and some connectors.

The only aluminum boxes that seem to fit the description of the windscreen moisture sensor and the TCM would be found behind the fuse block (meaning towards the front of the car) and to the extreme left. But they are so far buried back there and covered with other bundles of wires that you'd have to be triple jointed to try to get to the attachment bolts.
 
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Old 01-31-2011, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by TheSeeker
Well, I finally got the plastic kick panel removed, but there were no boxes of any type behind it. The only things behind that kick panel are bundles of wires and some connectors.

The only aluminum boxes that seem to fit the description of the windscreen moisture sensor and the TCM would be found behind the fuse block (meaning towards the front of the car) and to the extreme left. But they are so far buried back there and covered with other bundles of wires that you'd have to be triple jointed to try to get to the attachment bolts.
That's them, like I said a puke to get at. The only reason I took off the kick panet is that's what it said to do, made it a bit easier to get at. The 2 rectangular boxes are the windshield sensor and the TCM under it. I used a 3" extension and a universal and another extension to get at the bolts, the wiring was a hassle but there is a zap strap holding it in place, remove that and you get a bit of room. 2 bolts hold the fuse box in place, it's a lot of work to dry out the TCM but the thing in Canada was 1300.00 or something. But if you find moisure and corrosion in it you have a leak. Mine was so minor that it didn't get the underlay of the carpet wet, a few drips from the bottom corner of the windshield was all it took. We get serious rain here and it took 3 months to get into the TCM after it was replaced, then all the gearbox fault lights and limp mode started again.
 
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Old 02-01-2011, 09:54 PM
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Not being a contortionist, I took the car to the dealership.

They've tested the TCM and found it to be OK. They checked for moisture or corrosion and found nothing.

Of course when I dropped the car off, transmission failure was showing on my dash, but when they took the car inside, it was normal again. They say it should have stored a code even though it went out and they cannot get it to come back on now in two days of trying.

I don't believe it stores any code for that and told them I certainly wasn't imagining it...it's not like I bring my car into the shop for no reason at all.

They are now checking for any bad electrical connections that may cause the TCM to lose power momentarily.
 
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Old 02-02-2011, 12:58 PM
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When my TCM crapped out there was a plethora of codes. So it seems odd to me that yours didn't store any. Did you go into full limp mode? Mine was 4th gear only. made for a different experience.
 
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Old 02-04-2011, 07:50 AM
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You'd be driving along and there would be a mild thud. The yellow warning lamp would come on and it would say Transmission Fault. It would then be in 4th gear only making it OK at highway speeds, but slow off of a full stop (of course). Then for no apparent reason, it would go back to normal and all the gears would return.

The dealership returned my car to me yesterday after putting 60 miles on it and never having the Transmission Fault come back again. They couldn't find a thing wrong with it.

However, we both agreed that physically removing/disconnecting the TCM may have corrected a wonky connection to it. It's the only thing that seems to make sense.

Since they found nothing and fixed nothing, they didn't charge me a penny even though they did run a bunch of diagnostics, test drove it a lot, washed it for me, and gave me a loaner car for three days!!

I'm about an hour away from the dealership, plus I drove it to dinner in their area....no more Transmission Failure. I'll be keeping my fingers crossed that it won't return.
 
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Old 02-04-2011, 08:59 AM
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Default Control module location

Re your module location, I have added the location diagram and pin outs from the electrical guide. The detail is 2005 but should be fine for the 2004 model.
 
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Old 02-05-2011, 06:35 PM
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Vernon,

Thanks! Those will come in very useful I'm sure.

May I ask where they came from?

I have the JTIS.... which is only partially functional because I loaned it to someone who scratched the DVD pretty badly...GRRR!!
 
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Old 02-07-2011, 04:40 AM
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Go to the Jaguar technical website (Topix). You register and pay for 1hr, 1day, 1month, and the model you wish to access. once you have paid you get the appropriate time to view the documents.
 
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Old 02-07-2011, 06:13 PM
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Thanks again Vernon!!

BTW.....been days now since I got the X-Type back from the dealership and not a single Trans Fault since.

I'm convinced now that it was just a funky connection even though there was no moisture or corrosion present.
 
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Old 04-12-2012, 08:11 PM
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Talking Transmission Control Module connector cleaning

Thank you all for your posts I felt pretty confident about tackling the job. My 2002 2.5 X-type had been giving me the 'DSC System Fault' and 'Transmission Fault' messages periodically, went into safe mode once about six weeks ago. I had the tranny fluid drained and changed at a transmission shop two weeks ago. The owner of the shop told me he had the same year and model as mine. He told me about having the 'xxx System Fault' message and safe mode kick in on his car, then told me it wasn't the tranny but the connector.

I found all the info I needed here on this site, and did the job tonight in less than an hour start to finish. Those 10mm nuts weren't all that hard to get at with a 1/4" drive ratchet and a short extension. All in all it was about two hours easier than I thought it would be!

So thank you very much.

Anyone attempting it, the first thing to note is that you only need to pry the door threshold up to remove it. Four friction posts hold it in place - no bolts, no screws. Take that threshold and kick plate off and you're good to go. Just get a nice light and a small ratchet and some good electrical connector cleaner (also a small brush for good measure) and you're all set! Easy as pie!

Dave
 
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