Bleeding Brakes
#1
Bleeding Brakes
Alright guys, the moment of happiness has come - opening up a shipped in product of 2 rear rebuilt bosch calipers (**** gets expensive having a jag.. grr, but its so worth it)
But there is one thing stopping me from smiling and just building frustration. It's bleeding the brakes. I've done them on all four calipers, but I've also heard it can be a bitch to have done. I've researched stuff based on bleeding the ABS HCU, and that its located behind the passenger side headlights (but I have no clue what to touch or what it looks like). Any thoughts/advice from those who have experienced this or know what to do?
Thanks guys!!
But there is one thing stopping me from smiling and just building frustration. It's bleeding the brakes. I've done them on all four calipers, but I've also heard it can be a bitch to have done. I've researched stuff based on bleeding the ABS HCU, and that its located behind the passenger side headlights (but I have no clue what to touch or what it looks like). Any thoughts/advice from those who have experienced this or know what to do?
Thanks guys!!
#2
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
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Fezz, I have bled my brakes a few times (seem to go through a caliper a year). Do not stress over it. treat it just like any other vehicle. When you remove the line from the caliper, try to keep the line pointing up to minimize the amount of fluid lost. if you can, plug the hole to the brake line too. Reattach, make sure the line is leak free. Using a piece of 3/16" ID tubing, make a loop of tubing that runs from the caliper, to the top of the wheel well, down to a collection jar (12 ounce glass jar works just fine). Now, open up the hood, remove the cap off of the brake booster, make sure it is full, pump the brakes about 6-8 times, check level (refill if necessary), look at the fluid in the tubing. At this point, your old fluid will still be present. It will more than likely be a dark green. Keep pumping the brakes and adding fluid until you: 1) see no more air bubbles, and 2) have fluid that is fairly clear. Once you get these two conditions, shut the bleeder valve and move on to the next wheel.
As for the order of which wheel to bleed first, start at the passenger rear wheel and bleed that first. Then move on to the driver's rear wheel. You should not have to bleed the fronts, but if you have the left over fluid, might as well bleed them too to get new fluid all the way around. You would then go to the passenger front, ending on the driver's front.
As for the order of which wheel to bleed first, start at the passenger rear wheel and bleed that first. Then move on to the driver's rear wheel. You should not have to bleed the fronts, but if you have the left over fluid, might as well bleed them too to get new fluid all the way around. You would then go to the passenger front, ending on the driver's front.
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Fezz (04-27-2012)
#3
One of the best investments I've ever done is getting the Motive Bleeder, pays for itself over time. File it up with fresh brake fluid, prime it, and bleed. I change the brake fluid every 2 years on my Jag and Merc, I can't imagine going back to the old brake pedal pump-stop-and-bleed method.
This is the one I have, but I remember they have a cheaper version too.
Motive Black Label Bleeder (0109) : Bimmerzone.com
This is the one I have, but I remember they have a cheaper version too.
Motive Black Label Bleeder (0109) : Bimmerzone.com
The following users liked this post:
Fezz (04-27-2012)
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