ABS Light on and DTS System Fault. Scanned and
came up with code C1175 = LH Rear Wheel speed sensor
fault. Fault clears after shut down but comes right
back after driving a short distance. ABS triggers on the
first few times I brake when it shouldn'tcan feel and
hear it. I've pulled the wheel and about all you can see
is where the sensor bolts to the hub. No obvious break
in the harnesswhich runs up to a connector under the
rear seat cushion according the reading I did in JTIS.

Is the sensor a dealer only item? NAPA nor Advance Auto
show a listing for the X. If so, any idea how much one goes
for? A Taurus sensor is like $65.

Also for S&Gs I tried to turn my cruise contol on and it
would not turn on. Is it disabled in the event of an
ABS/DTS fault?

Only had the car a bit over a month and the fun begins!
Oh, my LH head light needs a smack to turn it on sometimes too!
Connector is melted to bulb! That is on the list too!

 

This is a common problem as the wheel speed sensors corrode and then become loose and fall off.
According to Jaguar it first started over here in the UK in Scotland (colder weather and more salty on roads aiding corrosion) and then gradually progressed down the country.
The speed sensor is part of the outer CV joint.
If you look in the X Type FAQ section you will find this useful info on how to fix it:-
https://www.jaguarforums.com/m_17160/tm.htm

 

Thanks for the link!

That is the wheel speed sensor ring not the sensor itself.
The sensor is bolted external and above the CV joint/ring.
I did not think to look at the ring and will have to get back
under it to see if it is intactI am hoping it is just a bad
sensor as it will be easyer than doing a CV joint!

BTWthe article in the link jumps from step 8 to step 16.
Perhaps a page missing???

I will keep the group posted on my progress here but may
have to live with it until the end of the week,

 

Does anyone know if the rear outer CV joint service kit is
still available ANYWHERE?Cost for new complete axle from
dealer is $830! They said service kit is no longer available???
Chances are my code C1175 is due to the sensor ring on the
outer CV joint falling off...... BTWwhere the hell does it
go when it falls off????

Looking to find a sevice kit if anyone can point me in the
right direction or maybe find a less expensive drive axle.
Dealer also said no one in the aftermarket makes rear
drive axles!?!?!?!?!

Thanks in advance! BTWI pulled the 60A ABS fuse from
the fuse box under the hood for now to stop the darn ABS
from coming on the first few times I brake.

 

I will have to try and find the copy of the magazine that the article was in to see if a page was missing.
Usually it is the speed ring that fails due to corrosion.You may well see it hanging loose if it hasnt come off.
My dealer also said complete halfshaft required.
It was bu****it too.
Tryringing or emailing Jag customer services or another dealer for the part number of an outer CV joint.
I will contact my dealer here in the UK and ask them too.

 

Not neccessarily true about one going then the other within a year.
Must be around 2 years since mine went and other side is still fine.

 

Thank you for the replies! I'd really appreciate it if some one had
the part number. I will check the Dealership down in MA where I
bought the car. Only one way up here in Maine!

I have not had a chance to look further into the ring being loose.
I think If I unbolt the sensor I will be able to see in pretty good.
Didn't even think to look as I fugured the speed ring would not
be an issue. What a crappy design! Why on earth would they
make it out of metal since it is so exposed to the elements???

Was thinking the same thing Bowhen is the right side going to
let go! You'd think the aftermarket would be making these things
since they are such a high failure item!

Thanks again, and please do post the part number(s) if they are found.
I will post them If I find them.

 

DOH! Sorry BuckMR2, all the pages are in the article! I did not see the
other column on the 2nd page. All the steps are theremy mistake.

 

We have a part number for the outer CV Joint:

C2S 43420

I got it from Jaguar Exeter in Exeter, New Hampshire.
Told them the dealer here in Maine said I had to buy
the whole shaft. They said "they don't know what
they are talking about!"

Anyway they had one in stock for $170.47 so I gave them
my CC# and am driving down in the morning to pick it up.

Also, JAG Genius PMed me and gave me the number too
so I want to give him a public THANK-YOU!

Will update when I get this thing fixedcan't stand driving with
malfunction lights lit all over the dash![:'(]

 

Sorry couldnt reply sooner....recovering from food poisoning.
See you already have the part number.
My dealer confirmed the part number is C2S434420 for AWD vehicles
Retailshere in UK £80 + 17.5% VAT.
It would be interesting to know what your dealer says when he realises there is such a part!

 

I am not even going to bother telling them as I will never
use that dealership anyway now! The dealership in Exeter
New Hampshire is fantastic! The parts guy ran my VIN and
told me my tranny was replaced under the recall. It was done
in 2004. They have some super nice privatly owned older Jags
in the show room. No sales tax in New Hampshire so $170.47 was
the total cost of the part.

 

Just want close this thread out and add some additional info
that may be helpful to others should they need to replace an
outer CV joint. I finally had a chance to replace mine today
and all is back to normal with my carall the faults reset by
themselves as soon as drove a few feet. My speedometer
works fine now too! Some notes:

Don't let a dealer BS you and tell you you need a whole new
half shaft! See part number above!

In addtion to an ABS light you will get a DSC Fault if you car has DSC

Your cruise control will not work

The code will reset everytime you shut off the car and then return after
the 1st couple of times you brakeand your ABS will trigger. I pulled
fuse #3, it is a Yellow 60 amp, under the hood to stop the ABS from
triggering every time I strated up. This will give the ABS light, the DSC
fault, a yellow amber light, and the main "brake" light will come on as
soon as you start up. Yesmy dash looked like a holiday tree! You don't
have to pull the fuse if the problem is goint to be fixed in a short time.
I could not get to the repair right away and did not think it was a good
idea for my ABS to be going off everytime I strated outit was driving
me crazy any way.

My speedometer was working when I first got the ABS fault then it
started reading like half of my actual speed! At first I thought this
was yet another new problem. I later found out it is also caused
by a speed ring issue. When I first looked at my left rear axle I
did not see the speed ring. It was broken but must have been
still sending some kind of signal for wheel speed. When my speedo
started acting up I pulled the wheel agian and I found the speed
ring sitting on the CV boot! So it had comeall the wayoff so
no speed info to the computer causing the speedo to read wrong.

The new joint comes with a new boot, 2 packets of CV joint grease
2 new circlips for each end of the axle, and 2 CV boot clamps. The
new joint looks like it has some type of corrosion resistant coating
on the speed ring end. Looks like an improved designhopefully!

The hub axle nut is 32mm. The suspension botls are 15 and 16mm.
The barke caliper uses 13mm bolts. There is a round rubber bumper
on the lower caliper bolt. It is secured with a 10mm nut. You will
need a 13mm deep socket to get the lower caliper bolt off after
you remove the bumper! What the hell the bumper is for IDK!
The upper link and lower link boltsthread into nuts that are welded
to the suspension members. Don't try to turn them like I did! LOL
Ah, try working In better light and you will see that they are welded!
All of my bolts came out fine.

Apply the E Brake and you should be able to loosen the 32mm axle nut.
I did not even have to pry the axle out of the differential. Once the
3 suspension bolts are out, you can just yank out ward and it will
pull it part way out of the Diff. You can then go under and pull it
the rest of the way out by hand. Remove the axle nut and slide
it out of the rear wheel hub. All of this only took a half hour!

Now the fun part! Cut the old outer CV boot clips off. A few
smacks on old outer joint and it popped off. I was thinking, this
is too easy! Well it was. I cleaned up the old axle and put
the new parts on. Agian, thinking this is too easy! Put the
axle back in and could not get the suspension to line back up
to get the bolts back in! It wasn't too long before I figured out
that I did not get the new joint pushed all the way onto the
axle! This made the axle too long and would not allow the
the hub to line up with the suspension member! Had to take
the axle backout. Like Bo I got a tight joint and had to
pound on it more that I felt comfortable with but it became
obvious when it did get seated. After that it only took like 10 min.
to get everything lined up and the bolts in.

Anyway, All is good inmy Jag now! Sorry if there are a bunch of
typos and words spelled wrong above. I just thought it important
to pass along this info. Thanks again to all of you who pointed me
in the right direction on this one!

 

I have a question. This code just came on for me. C1175 plus ABS fault light. Then when moving traction control light comes on.

I just replaced the wheel bearing on the left rear...

Question, did u every try cleaning the sensor? How did u know it was the ring? I hooked my car upto $4500 scanner ,pulled up the wheel sensor values and rode around the block. Other 3 wheels showing matching speeds, left rear showing 0 for speed :/..

I just bought this and this is about my 4th issiue. Starting to have buyers remorse

 

The ring became completely detached on my outer CV joint--it was very obvious. This is the most common failure when that code comes up. As I recall the ABS sensor needs to be removed prior to pulling a rear bearing hub assembly for replacement. Perhaps who did the bearing broke the sensor??? You should be able to see if the ring is damaged by looking at the outer part of the CV joint. You can also unbolt the ABD sensor and inspect it.

 

I got lucky. There was some debri or something on the sensor. Its just a magnet , so if anything gets on it, it wil show closed and read 0 . Unbolted and wiped off, back on, good as new!