A1 is oil, you need to be careful of suppositions based on guesses and unclear research.

 

So this will be an entirely SUPPOSITION on my part. Look @ the attached sealer for Jaguar. It has a sealer and LUBRICANT which I ASSUME is why they gave that spec. Permatex says the spec is a motor oil minimum specification. But as you can see, this one meets Jaguar spec.

 

 

Thanks for the Info! One other supposition I heard about the oil and silicone joint application was so that it could be taken apart easier next time. My first thought was, this thing has 150K miles on her, I'll be happy to drive to 200K and never Have to take this part of the car apart again.

Another guess is that the lube aids in the lifetime of the gasket material.

Funny you mention Advance Auto, I called them today and gave the spec WSE-M2C908 and asked if they had a match. That's when I found out the number is for a Ford oil. Which they said they have, probably a common lube.

Anyway, I'm into this job! I like fixing things and I have a good workspace for this. Tomorrow's Saturday and it's going to be sunny and 70s out. The car is pointed out of the garage so I can enjoy the afternoon and just do it.

 

Did you have the catalytic converters replaced? Just wondering how you made out with that since you thought that was a problem earlier.

 

Hey thanks for checking in, I decided to get into the miss fire first since that is likely why the cats started smelling. In doing the tune up and manifold gaskets I found a spark plug dripping with oil so today I got down to the valve cover gaskets.

I got the front cover off and cleaned today, the rear tomorrow and hopefully both sealed up. Haven't bought the gasket sealer yet, I could wait til Monday and get it at a Jag dealer that is 10 mins from work. Or I could get Right Stuff silicone sealer/gasket maker tomorrow and get the valve covers sealed up tomorrow, Sunday night. I know I should get it from the dealer tho and wait til Monday. I haven't seen a lot of coverage in the forums on valve cover gasket R&R.

After I get this all back together with new plugs and coil packs and gaskets, I will start it up and see what I have. If the cats still need to be R&R'd, then I will try the trick of putting a spacer at the downstream O2 sensor. If that doesn't work, then I will have to spring for new cats, $1,700 was the quote for both, parts & labor.

 

This is my front bank with the cam cover removed. Showing the spark plug wells here. I can see why it's a cam cover and not a valve cover. I don't see any valves.

The valves are located down those scary intake holes where you never want to drop a stray nut or washer while you have the upper intake removed.

That aside, my rear bank had the oil drippy spark plug, not the bank in this pic, so I probably have a worse version of this on that side. I'll pull that one off tomorrow. Check it out man, systematic failure at 150K miles.

 

I called the dealer today to ask for the cam cover gasket sealer, and I was told it is not anything special, just hi temp RTV, their price was $8. They offered the gaskets and sealant for $96. I already have the gaskets so I figured I don't need to go there for the silicone alone. So, I got Permatex hi temp gasket maker. It claims to resist up to 650F Intermittent. The other one I was considering was called Right Stuff, but only rated at 500F intermittent.

Tonight I'm cleaning up the firewall cam cover, other is clean. Two things about these cam covers.

1, they are very light weight, which is good, but I don't think they are straight aluminum, they must be made of a composite material.

2 I tried to polish up the outer surfaces with Scotch bright but they appear to be stained and do not really come up to a shine at all.

Lastly, does anyone know the part no. or name of this hose? I would like to get a new one for the resurgence of the Jag. I'm cleaning the under side of this cam cover tonight, but this tube thing won't come off. The cleaning would be easier with out the dangling doo dad flopping around.

 

In drawing a little diagram of the spark plugs as they are in the motor, I noticed the firing order seems off balance bc firing 2 & 4 one after the other on the same side of the motor would mechanically bias the CG momentarily. Is this to balance out the inherent imbalance of the V6 engine?

Who cares? Just thought I'd ask.

 

From a 15 year Level 4 Jag Tech

 

 

Nice diagrams, but they don't come to a conclusion on firing order. Like I said, not important to me. I'm just replacing gaskets and bolt on parts.

 

Oh? Look @ 2nd diagram = making 1,4,2,5,3,6 firing order sensible. NOT firing cylinders on one bank one after the other as you stated.

I.e. = "firing order seems off balance bc firing 2 & 4 one after the other on the same side of the motor would mechanically bias the CG momentarily"

 

Who cares? You post 3 diagrams that appear to disagree and you praise one of them, after I point out that they don't jive. Whatever man, I said I didn't even care about it. I posted several other pertinent questions to what I'm doing this week.

Congratulations for figuring out diagrams you've been looking at for some years. Bravo!

 

That stupid hard plastic hose you mention just pops right out, but seems to only pop out on accident. I cut mine and spliced back with flex hose, then it popped out. Jags are fun, just like any old car.

Back, I been in limbo with my X.
New gaskets, plugs, coils, filter, filter, etc, etc,....
Started back up with exact issue, misfires(months ago, limbo since)
But on a couple restarts she runs perfect for 10 seconds, so there is a fix for it.
Can be frustrating being a tighwad at times, so took a break till warmer weather.
Had plenty of oils soaked plug wells, do not believe that was an issue tho.

 

I hope that last sentence was a joke bc if you have oil soaked spark plug wells, guaranteed to misfire until you clear that up with new cam cover gaskets.

Btw, I found the part no. for that tube I asked about above.
TUBE, VENT, CAMSHAFT COVER LH B-BANK: C2S35164

It's on the rear bank, so it's under the intake manifold.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...eather-105858/

 

a

 

07 X type 140k miles help. Did coil packs n plugs. They must of sucked. Cause kept throwing codes. Replace them with Delphi coilpacks. No more codes. Now we have chugging still but the car actually runs vs Flashing engine light n chugging super bad . Only code left after 100s of miles is that p420 code. When I step on the gas. I want 0 hesitation like I Miss so much. It isnt a bad chug. But I notice it. Its Like a RB in football not hitting the hole in time! And u lose by .2 in fantasy football. Ha. Anyway anyone else have this problem

 

Ooops, accidentally replied to your question in the New Members Forum. Hopefully a mod will clean that up.

P420 is rear catalytic converter below threshold efficiency. The computer is comparing the signals of the oxygen sensors upstream and downstream of the catalytic. Normal behavior at idle is the upstream sensor bangs back and forth between rich and lean a lot, many times in a minute. The downstream sensor should not be changing much at all. One of your oxygen sensors might be bad or the catalytic is clogged and not working well (and limiting your power) or the catalytic is damaged and not doing it's job. In my case the rear catalytic was just a straight pipe, all the stuff that was supposed to be in there was gone so I replaced the catalytic.

If you have an OBD-II reader you should be able to see the actual signals of the O2 sensors. If you are lucky one of the sensors needs replacing, that is a quick, cheap, and relatively easy job compared to replacing the cat.

 

Cleaned!

Graham