Just bought a 2004 X type 3.0 with 68k. When I connect an OBD II I get two codes….P1000 (“not completed self checks”) and P1646. (O2 sensor), both “pending” and current. However the CEL light is not illuminating and does also not illuminate when positioning the ignition switch to the “II” position, or momentarily illuminating when starting the car. I understand that some car sales places take some steps to keep the light out. I have checked all the applicable fuses and they are all good. Any suggestions before I tear into the instrument panel?

 

banshee, it has to be something on the instrument cluster. There is no separate fuse for the instrument cluster. I am placing money that you are going to find that someone has gotten in and damaged the instrument cluster for that light because they had a check engine light that would not go away and their fix was to disable the light so someone would buy the car thinking all is good.

 

I think my 2006 2.1L X-Type has the P1000 code. This does not seem to activate the CEL. I heard in the past that the P1000 is nothing much to worry about.
My 2004 2.5L X-Type has the P1646. I swapped the O2 sensor already twice - not much luck so far. This does not activate the CEL.
Pos.II should let the CEL light up for a moment, yes.
I never had a CEL not working, but possible reasons are:
Fuse (as you said), bulb, wiring, or meddling with the system via a sophisticated OBDII scanner. I am sure, my scanner cannot do that, but there seem to be scanners, which can,,,

 

Thermo… my thoughts exactly! If I pull the instrument cluster, how do I tell what wire? The light is an LED, so is there a schematic somewhere that I ca reference?

 

banshee74, there is no wire that runs through the dash for t he CEL light. What you are going to find is where the CEL light is, you will find a SMD (surface mounted diode, aka LED) and somewhere right around it, you are going to see scratches where someone has scratched through the foil run (the lighter, kinda silvery lines). To fix, you will have to carefully scratch off the green conformal coating (may be able to use something like paint thinner/Isopropyl alcohol to help soften it some) off and then you will have to take a small piece of wire and lay it from one side of the damaged area to the other. You will then have to solder each end of the wire to bridge the damage HOpefully they were not really destructive and pulled the whole SMD off the board. Granted, I would be looking at the seller, especially if you are in a state that requires an inspection to be done on the car prior to selling as this is one of the guaranteed points that they have to check. Makes people get really nervous when you start saying that you are going to report the activity.

 

Faulty/bodged MIL.

P1646 lots of threads with answers, yes just fix it, nearly always needs a new (& correct) part.

P1000 does matter.

For all the codes look on JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource for the DTCs PDF and on here for existing answers with advice.

 

Thermo… many thanks for the informative and professional response. I have also identified that the “drivetrain” led is also not illuminating! The thing that gets me is that the car dealer ( not corporate) that I bought the car from did the inspection in November with an expiration of 11/25. They had ownership of the car two months prior. The car was previously prepped for sale by an extensive corporate dealership that sold the car at auction in August. The seller also provided a “drivetrain warranty” (3 months, 3000 miles”). It seems that if the cluster was tampered, that would possibly expose them to accountability and sanction. Pretty stupid!.

 

Thermo….if I can pick on your expertise one more time….would it be easier to pick up a replacement cluster..same OEM VIN range, find a shop that can maybe reflash the ECU to keep the mileage accurate, or is the mileage intrinsic in the instrument cluster?

 

banshee74, things are a bit more complicated than simply reprogramming the mileage into the cluster. The instrument cluster is also part of the car's security system. The key numbers are programmed into the cluster and the cluster has to agree along with the PATS module that the key in the ignition is correct for the vehicle. So, yes, it can be replaced, but you will most likely need to pay a shop $125 or so for an hour of shop time so they can pull the info from your old cluster and transfer it to the new cluster.

Granted, may want to approach the dealership, make mention that you have found that they tampered with the instrument cluster (at a minimum failed to detect that the CEL does not come on which is a mandatory check they have to do) and that all you are asking for is them to fix the instrument cluster (you will worry about the error code and correcting that). See what that gets you. You can then say that if they don't, they are forcing you to have to file a report with the BBB and you are sure that the State would love to hear about this. What is the worst thing they are going to do? Tell you never to return. Like you are.

 

Sincere THANKS Thermo…!