I knew I had a misfire code 0302 from my obd but went to Auto store to use their big time code reader and got a whole slew of codes:
1314,1316,0352,1638,1642,1111,1638,1699! Now I have just changed my headliner and all went back in fairly well but I did have the car sitting for a while. Battery maybe?

Also the shifter is stuck in park now??

Any help greatly appreciated!

 

Well it does appear a little help is in order.That is an impressive list of codes.
First things first, get the battery charged and tested. Then clean the battery posts and the battery terminals to bright and shiny. A weak battery and bad connections will throw out all kinds of codes. The gear selector is most likely locked in park because there is not enough voltage to activate the interlock solenoid when you are depressing the brake pedal. Again back to the battery.
Lastly, don't fear the long list of codes. They are either old codes that have never been cleared or new codes caused by the battery voltage. The main reason for that is P1111 is the code you always want to see. It means all is well and all monitors passed. It can't co-exist with all of the other codes. You would get a P1000 meaning something hasn't passed.
Charge up the battery and then clear all codes with an OBD scanner and start fresh. Post any new codes that arise.

 

geewilicurs, a lot of your codes are results of the misfire. So, fix one issue and you get rid of a bunch of the codes. Based on the codes, cylinder 2 is misfiring. This could be something as simple as some oil in the plug well resulting in needing a valve cover gasket (cheap to buy and the work is not that bad, just takes a few hours). Now, you are lucky in the cylinder 2 is on the front side of the engine, right behind the right hand side headlight. So, accessing it is easy and should make diagnosing things easy. I would start wtih pulling the coil and the plug to see what you have there. A visual should give you a lot of info that you are needing to determine the next step (if you see oil on the plug, valve cover gasket set, cracked plug, new plug, cracks in the top of the coil, new coil, etc). After that, if all that looks good, you may have a bad fuel injector. Swapping in a new one is not too bad. But, before doing that, I would do a good look over of the wiring to make sure all that is good and you don't have a simple problem.

 

While sitting at Auto store checked battery CCA 774 rated at 790 so down a smidge. Also have the communication fault call dealer?
Only thing I did have problem with putting everything back together was the center roof console?

Why would all this show up just by hooking up a different code reader.

Would like to get it out of park so I can limp in home, less than a mile then I can work on it.

 

geewilicurs, all code readers are not created equally. This is where a bit of looking into what type of code reader you have can pay of dividends. This is why I don't tend to recommend the cheapest reader you can find unless it is an emergency. Spend a little bit of money up front. It will save you from figuring this out and having to buy another code reader later.

I seem to recall that if you are stuck in Park, you can remove the plate from around the gear shifter and there is a lever in there that will allow you to shift the car out of park manually. That will atleast let you get home with the car. From there you can sort out the issues.

 

 

 

 

 

 

When my climate control didn't work, it was the fuse - the same one that controls the interior overhead and footwell lights. I inadvertently shorted a wire working on lights.

The other possible cause to not disengage the J-Gate is the brake pedal switch/actuator.

 

https://youtu.be/bIqD6YO4LOw

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...k-park-204192/

https://www.jaguarforum.com/showthread.php?t=39968

 

 

Yep, that was the unit that had died. I would lean more toward fuse, wiring, etc. Sounds like he's been using the car and everything working before the J gate sticking. He said he had a misfire code, then it sat a bit (headliner?) & now stuck. P1699 is a Canbus problem that can be a one off problem (J-Gate, brake pedal sensor or a slew of others) or CAN point to the CCM or ECU failure.

Here's a quote from 8 years ago in this forum =
"P1699 is a CAN Bus failure. This could be intermittent, a one off (confused data stream), or literally a hard failure such as the A/CCM or ECM., or a physical cable/connector failure somewhere along the path. The CAN network basically gets "rebooted or hard reset" every time the ignition is turned to the "0" position.

The simple start to diagnosis and process of elimination is to clear the code using a scan tool. Shut down the A/C if you can (Everything turned OFF). Shut off the ignition, turn the key to pos "2" leave it there for at least 10 seconds (while the entire system goes through reboot and startup diag.), then start the engine, drive as you normally would, see if the code returns. If it does, then further steps will be necessary. This fault is a direct causal effect on the A/C unit."

 

Well guys I did the above and also changed the coil from cylinder 2 to number 6. Took it for a short drive and now getting: misfire cylinder 2 and 6! Also noticed wires to coils tape snapping of and cracking to pieces.

I did the complete plug change and coils gaskets and all in early 2016 with some great help from Thermo and others! I'm thinking need to rewrap and check for any breaks, also use better heat resistant tape.

How can I check these coils? Or should I just replace them AGAIN!

 

geewilicurs, let me do some looking on a how to test the coils. Problem is, the coils have a very low resistance and unless it completely failed, it is going to be difficult to see with a standard multimeter. Based on what you are seeing, if I had to take a guess, you may have a bad coil (the one that is now on cylinder 6) and your misfire on cylinder 2 is due to the plug being carbon fouled. Cleaning of the plug for cylinder 2 should bring that cylinder back.

If you are re-wrapping some wires for broken insulation, look on e-bay and see if you can find some stuff called "Raychem WCSF-050". This stuff is worth its weight in gold. If you are worried about it lasting under your hood, I use it at work to survive a nuclear reactor meltdown. It is a little on the thick side, but this stuff is great. It has a glue on the inside of the tubing that if you heat it properly, will melt and adhere to the insulation, creating a water tight seal. All you would have to do is back the pins out of the plugs for the coils and then slide a few inches on to the wire and shrink it down. It will shrink with say a hair dryer or heat gun and activate the glue.

 

geewilicurs, unfortunately, I am not seeing anything that is specific to what the coil resistance should be. But, here are some other checks that you can eliminate the rest of the wiring. This may reveal something that we are not anticipating.

First check, disconnect the plug on coil #2. if you look ,you should see a red/white wire, a yellow/green wire, a black wire, and a red/white wire. The first check you are going to do is a resistance check of the black wire to the chassis. You should see your multimeter read say 1.0 ohms (make sure that the multimeter is set on the 2K scale or lower, ie, 200 ohm scale is so equipped). Anything under 5.0 ohms is considered good. If not, you have a bad ground wire.

Next, turn the ignition switch to the RUN position and then measuring for 20 VDC, measure from the red/white wire (Pin 1) to chassis ground. Do you get over 10.5 VDC? If yes, then your power wire is good. If not, you have a problem with that wire and supplying power.

If both of these checks are good, then odds are you are looking at a bad coil. The other two wires involve disconnecting the plug at the ECM and I am not sure you are wanting to do that. If you do, then let me know and I can tell you the points you will need to measure between.

On a side note, if you measure between pins 1 and 3 on the coil, you should get around 5 ohms as I recall. But, I am going off the top of my head. It is going to be some low resistance. If you are seeing over 10 ohms, then it is definitely bad.

 

Thank you Thermo,

I think I have found part of the problem with number 2. In taking off tape leading to the coil connector the part of the harness that had melted has a couple of spots bare wire! Going to be fixing the entire harness with the new tape and heat shrink when I get it. Might wrap separate and wrap new tape and see how that does until I get the heat shrink.

 

With 2 & 6 failure after swap, and with wiring fault, it kinda sounds like problem (coil/wiring = chicken or egg) was where it started. Sounds like coil originally on 6 is done for and whatever caused it to die (wiring/short) needs to be repaired. Bet you if you took the original coil that was in 6 that showed bad when moved to 2 would show bad on another cylinder if swapped out there (like bad now 2 moved to 1,3,4,5...) and obviously whatever is put in 6 even if good shows bad because of underlying problem.

 

Update,
Everything is running fine now with the engine! Cleared codes changed coil#2 with new coil and drove 8 miles and zooming along with no problem,
What I am left with now though is gear shift still not shifting on its own and code #1699 communication with no climate control.
Since I am a veteran and have privileges on base at auto craft center, took car in and had them read my codes and try and erase the check engine light. They cleared the check engine light but would just keep coming back! So I am again asking for help to get out of this mess. Still can't believe I am having all these issues just changing the headliner!