Issue #2 with 2004 X type 3.0…… 68k miles. Drove the car 50 interstate miles, and pulling into local streets, a “Whirring, crying, rotational” sound started occasionally when lifting up on gas. The “occasional” is now, a week later, more “prevalent”, and instead of only on slowing, but also slightly on acceleration. The weird thing is, on acceleration it sounds more up front, and on deceleration shifts to the rear seat area. U joint is good and the differential carriage bearing seems okay. At a loss to nail it down one last note, it has been fairly cold (35 degrees) or less the whole time.. I have a 3 month drivetrain warranty, but I need to narrow the possibilities down. Any suggestions???

 

banshee74, I would start with using some termalene grease and a needle attachment on a grease gun and give your carrier bearing for the rear drive shaft a good greasing. To locate, jack up one side of your car and crawl under at the driver's door/B pillar area. If you draw a line where the B pillars are, the carrier bearing is going to be pretty much in line with the B pillars, supporting the rear drive shaft. You will want to pick 3 spots on the carrier bearing about 120 degrees apart, stick the needle attachment behind the weather seal and squirt in some grease. Do this in all 3 spots and then take the car out for a drive and see if your noise has changed. If so, you found the noise culprit. If not, it most likely needed some greasing anyways and we can take things from there.

 

Will do! Thank you Sir! Btw…I see you live in Great Mills…..I used to live in Hollywood, based at NAS Patuxent!

 

Well, if you ever make it back this way, let me know. Always up for meeting people from the forum. I will also be up in Pottstown, PA for the first part of May to work at a sister plant. It is about 90 miles south of you.

 

Thermo…..I was able to inject the grease into the differential support bearing. (four spots around the bearing). After three trips around town, the “whirring whine” is very noticeably reduced to just an occasional reduced sound on deceleration. Temps have been cold. Am I correct in assuming that this proves to be the source, and does it take a little bit for the grease to find its way all through the bearing, or is a second application warranted?

 

banshee74, I would say that this most likely confirms your problem. I would say to start saving up for a new carrier bearing (new drive shaft?). I do seem to recall some spent the long dollar for a whole driveshaft, but it wasn't that bad (few hundred?). It would make the install much easier I would think. Not having to work around trying to get the bearing pressed on and off and paying for that (still probably cheaper than buying a whole driveshaft, but what is your time worth?).

As for a second application, you can give it a try, but odds are, not going to get much better. But, the grease will help keep things alive for quite awhile.

 

Thermo,
I’ve had two different mechanics, who I trust, look at the driveshaft. I’ve also consulted with a truck machine shop that handles pressed on bearings and drive shaft repair/ balancing. The machine shop said they cannot swap the differential support bearing because of its construction, however, I’ve seen several posts on this forum that it’s possible. I’m waiting for a quote/ availability on a Dana Spicer new driveshaft ($1500). I hesitate to put on a used/“reconditioned….. (whatever level of reconditioning…. Just painted or all bearings, cv joints redone). I’ve talked to the warranty company, and I cant get a straight answer if they will cover a new shaft or some other alternative! I’ve researched the availability online…..so, question…..can you recommend a good source of something other than a NEW drive shaft?

 

If you look online, there is a place called "Terry's Jaguar Parts". They list a rebuild axle for $822. The other option is to get a rebuild kit for the rear driveshaft for like $250 on e-bay and then you can most likely get a decent used rear axle from a local junkyard for a $100 or so. Then you can take the pieces to the local machine shop and they should be able to get all done for you for say 2 hours of labor. Probably be out the door for everything for like $500, which is a lot cheaper than most what you will find and you will know the quality of the part you are sticking in.