Feels like my wheels are going to fall off!
#1
Feels like my wheels are going to fall off!
Finaly after 2 months my X-Type is off the Jack stands!!! ........ well for now!
After doing a lot of rear end work, my test drive did not go well. Once up to 40mph my steering felt very 'squirrely', as I changed lanes it felt like I was driving on an oil slick, or like my wheels were going to fall off! I turned the wheel right, the car moved right, then went left, then back to the right!
There was no shaking or shimmy, but there was a light squeak when turning the steering wheel coming from the interior. It was so bad I pulled over thinking my wheels were about too come off, but they were nice and tight.
I have not checked my tie rods or anything yet, I didn't do any work on the front end end so im confused. could it be the rear end and I just didn't realize it? maybe the cv nut at the hubs were not on all the way!?
any suggestions for trouble shooting are appreciated.
If quick summary, I had check engine light & ABS light, no spedo etc... the cause was both rear ABS rings that had rusted off. I pulled the rear CV's and replaced the rings thanks to the great advice from this forum. While doing that I ran into lots of rusted and seized bolts, which led to such a delay in completing the job. While doing that job I also replaced all the rotors, calipers and pads, and one rear front lower arm (dog bone).
After doing a lot of rear end work, my test drive did not go well. Once up to 40mph my steering felt very 'squirrely', as I changed lanes it felt like I was driving on an oil slick, or like my wheels were going to fall off! I turned the wheel right, the car moved right, then went left, then back to the right!
There was no shaking or shimmy, but there was a light squeak when turning the steering wheel coming from the interior. It was so bad I pulled over thinking my wheels were about too come off, but they were nice and tight.
I have not checked my tie rods or anything yet, I didn't do any work on the front end end so im confused. could it be the rear end and I just didn't realize it? maybe the cv nut at the hubs were not on all the way!?
any suggestions for trouble shooting are appreciated.
If quick summary, I had check engine light & ABS light, no spedo etc... the cause was both rear ABS rings that had rusted off. I pulled the rear CV's and replaced the rings thanks to the great advice from this forum. While doing that I ran into lots of rusted and seized bolts, which led to such a delay in completing the job. While doing that job I also replaced all the rotors, calipers and pads, and one rear front lower arm (dog bone).
#2
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
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Kak, take the car out at a low speed and what I want you to find is something like a traffic circle or some long turn that you take at say 25 mph. As you are making the turn, momentarily step on the gas like you are going to pass a car on the curve. Does the rear end feel like it is going to step out on you (may shift and feel like it is going to come around, but it won't)? if so, you have bad bushings on the lower/forward rear axle control arms. that can lead to wheel wobble like you are experiencing. Granted, probably would not be a bad idea to get the rear end back up in the air and do a once over of the bolts you messed with. May want to even use a rubber mallet to hit some of the suspension parts to see if you can knock something loose. The rubber mallet will let you bet on things pretty good without causing any damage. Worst case, it will make you feel better because you got out some of your frustration.
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Usmc_Kak (07-26-2014)
#3
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OH yeah, the light squeak that you are getting from the steering column, that is a common problem with the X-Type. The bearing that supports the steering shaft as it goes through the firewall will dry out and make a little noise. If you can access it, a little bit of WD 40 will make it all better.
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Usmc_Kak (07-26-2014)
#4
#5
I did figure out most of it. The rear end was loose, after installing new abs rings and putting the rear halfshafts back on I did not tighten down hub nut enough. The whole car needs an alignment so I ordered some new tie rod ends and new front halfshafts due to a cracked CV boot. I also ordered new ball joints. Once everything is on I'll get an alignment and make sure everything is tight.
As is now though I have been driving her and she is great at high speeds. The alignment should really bring her around. I hope my whining front end noise is a CV joint, if not I might replace the engine mount next to the tc. I think that is causing some issues.
As is now though I have been driving her and she is great at high speeds. The alignment should really bring her around. I hope my whining front end noise is a CV joint, if not I might replace the engine mount next to the tc. I think that is causing some issues.
#8
When changing the right front drive shaft are you changing just the outer shaft or the whole lot, ie the intermediate shaft as well. If the latter you will need to remove the transfer box before removing the intermediate shaft from it otherwise a seal in the transfer box gets damaged by the retaining clip on the end of the shaft.
I did figure out most of it. The rear end was loose, after installing new abs rings and putting the rear halfshafts back on I did not tighten down hub nut enough. The whole car needs an alignment so I ordered some new tie rod ends and new front halfshafts due to a cracked CV boot. I also ordered new ball joints. Once everything is on I'll get an alignment and make sure everything is tight.
As is now though I have been driving her and she is great at high speeds. The alignment should really bring her around. I hope my whining front end noise is a CV joint, if not I might replace the engine mount next to the tc. I think that is causing some issues.
As is now though I have been driving her and she is great at high speeds. The alignment should really bring her around. I hope my whining front end noise is a CV joint, if not I might replace the engine mount next to the tc. I think that is causing some issues.
#9
#10
If its not a bad leak I would be tempted to just keep an eye on the oil level and top up as necessary.
In my own case I have quite a bad engine sump leak as well as a bad intermediate shaft so am steeling myself to remove the transfer box in order to do that job and then at the same time change the intermediate shaft. So far 6 months of steeling haven't been enough, I really must get round to it.
In my own case I have quite a bad engine sump leak as well as a bad intermediate shaft so am steeling myself to remove the transfer box in order to do that job and then at the same time change the intermediate shaft. So far 6 months of steeling haven't been enough, I really must get round to it.
#11
#12
They are quite expensive. I can get you a used one with new bearing pressed in for a 3rd of the price. Pm me if your interested and we will go from there.
Good Luck,
The Dr!
Ps if anyone needs parts. Pm me. I have lots of x type parts. engines, trans, Transfercases. all good and come with a 30 day warranty guaranty to work.
Good Luck,
The Dr!
Ps if anyone needs parts. Pm me. I have lots of x type parts. engines, trans, Transfercases. all good and come with a 30 day warranty guaranty to work.
#13
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Noodles, I guess I am trying to understand why you are wanting a whole unit, not just the bearing. If you remove the spindle, a local garage can press out and press in a new bearing for next to nothing as the time to do it is very little (probably cost you $40 for this service). The bearing is only like $50. That is way cheaper than what you are looking at through the dealership. Worst case, you take Dr up on his offer and get yourself the used spindle in your hands, you have a shop press in the new bearing and you can do the replacement all in 1 day and not have to worry about having a second vehicle to get the bearing work done.
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