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Increasingly, I have a clunking sound coming from the front drivers-side wheel when breaking or left-locking the wheel, which I assume is the inner tie rod.
A Jaguarforums.com search suggest some gotchas when replacing the inner tie rods - that is, on one side in particular.
Question: Mine being a US model, is the potential issue on the driver or passenger side?
Question: Also, are tie rods a maintenance item...? Does it make sense to have the passenger-side replaced while the drivers-side tie rod is being replaced?
Changing the CV, now that's VERY different. Left side no fuss, right side BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL and follow directions to not damage the inner seals in transfer case by too much lateral movement.
Which unfortunately by your description might be your problem. The offending CV will make noise and sometimes telegraph feeling to driver when turning the opposite way of the bad part. Turn left with sound/feel = right CV bad & conversely.
Member, Motorcarman, has some good guidance (read all the forum threads before attempting) =
1. Check the outer tie rod ends by grasping BY HAND and push up and down. DO NOT USE A PRY BAR. Check the inner tie rod ends, pushing them front to rear. If any free play is observed in a joint, it is worn and should be replaced.
2. While vehicle is on the ground or on a drive-on hoist, have an assistant rotate the steering wheel rapidly back and forth from 10 o’clock to 10 o’clock while observing the inner and outer tie rods. If the outer tie rod ends have any vertical movement or the inner tie rod ends have any horizontal movement, the tie rod end with the observed movement should be replaced.
3. Raise the vehicle and remove the front wheels. The wheels will need to be turned to the right in order to inspect the passenger-side inner tie rod end and to the left to inspect the driver’s-side inner tie rod end. Inspect all four seals for tears, perforations and wear. If there is any indication of wear or perforations on the seal, the tie rod end should be replaced.
4. Stud Corrosion: Using a putty knife or other hard, flat, dull object, lift the bottom of the seal up, to expose the stud. If any water escapes from the seal in the form of bubbles or in a liquid form, that tie rod end should be replaced. Closely examine the stud for signs of corrosion, especially around the knuckle. A rag might be needed to clean off any grease on the stud that impairs a good visual inspection. If there is any sign of corrosion, that tie rod end should be replaced.
If you find play at the inner tie rod, confirm that it’s the joint, and not the rack bushings, that are worn. If the rack boot allows it, squeeze the boot to feel that the joint is the problem and the rack isn’t loose and moving in the housing. This will also give you an indication if the rack boot needs to be replaced. It’s always a good practice to replace the boot, but you may find it’s easier to obtain a tie rod end rather than a direct-fit boot. Some of the universals fit well, but if you have to order the tie rod end, add the boot kit to the order.
With outer joints, it’s a good practice to make note of the length of the rod before the end is removed to get the toe in the ballpark on reassembly; many techs simply count the turns when the rod is removed, but a measurement from the center of the joint to a known point is a good back up. Either way, be sure the toe is within specs before the car is returned.
Changing the CV, now that's VERY different. Left side no fuss, right side BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL and follow directions to not damage the inner seals in transfer case by too much lateral movement.
Which unfortunately by your description might be your problem. The offending CV will make noise and sometimes telegraph feeling to driver when turning the opposite way of the bad part. Turn left with sound/feel = right CV bad & conversely.
Member, Motorcarman, has some good guidance (read all the forum threads before attempting) =
Idk, I had a local import shop replace my right side (the hard one) & parts + labor was $190 USD. I damaged it by not installing the right side control arm (one w/the ball joint) properly. There's a thread on what the indications were for my messing up.
Idk, I had a local import shop replace my right side (the hard one) & parts + labor was $190 USD. I damaged it by not installing the right side control arm (one w/the ball joint) properly. There's a thread on what the indications were for my messing up.
@Dell: Read your post - a nightmare. Parts and labor $190?? Called two independent older Jag specialists (30 years in business) and neither have replaced CV axle on the x-type.
Is this repair so unique that I should worry about it? I assume parts are less than $200 - so is $400 labor for both sides reasonable (minus the post alignment)? I'm afraid one of these shops pounds me for $700 or something cuz they don't do it everyday.
I would be hesitant to have the right side replaced by an import shop without experience. As noted the left side is like nearly any other replacement but, the right side is tricky because if you/they move the interior "rod" too much laterally when trying to separate the 2 pieces, the clip on the rod tears the seal in the transfer case. Then you have to tear it out to fix the leaking transfer fluid leaking into the transmission.
There is actually a Jag tool to hold the interior rod in place while separating the exterior one. Most members and a lot of techs with experince just follow the recommendations that Motorcarman mentions in the thread above. Using small, then increasingly larger screwdrivers/wedges too slowly separate the two.
This has a section on how to use the tool =
Hhmmm....that's odd. I had a drop link loosen a little while after replacing them and the A Arms. Still haven't figured out how that happened with the way you have to tighten (or loosen) them. The torx middle moved while holding the outside nut stationary (or vice versa?)
Glad you found the solution!
Last edited by Dell Gailey; Nov 2, 2019 at 09:29 PM.
Hhmmm....that's odd. I had a drop link loosen a little while after replacing them and the A Arms. Still haven't figured out how that happened with the way you have to tighten (or loosen) them. The torx middle moved while holding the outside nut stationary (or vice versa?)
Glad you found the solution!
My mechanic said the horizontal bolt had backed out about 5 turns - that's a lot. I can certainly tell the difference over studder bumps and generally the front end feels much tighter. Haven't heard a clunk when backing up either, so we'll see. He said he saw the same exact thing on a Volvo earlier in the week.
BTW One top shop quoted me $2,700 - $3,700 to replace the CV joint, as they discribed it "the right way." I had some fun with that. Since they were so experienced I asked them to discribe how they replaced the last one. Then I showed them the published proceedure. The look on their faces was priceless. Incredible.
Front left tie rod question
