My 2004 x-type 2.5 manual won't start. Everything seems fine. All systems came back ok on the code reader. And it gave me code P1111. Does anyone know what this could mean? I've tried looking this up and come up with mixed answers.

Also I've already had the battery tested, so that's not the problem.

 

It means that all the 'computers' have done their system tests with no faults found. The no-start could be something not monitored by the system- like low or no fuel pressure.

 

If the car was perfectly fine and then all of a sudden won't start I would still think it is the battery. Our cars are very finicky about that

Have you had the battery load tested?

 

Great. So basically I'll need to have it looked at.
Yes I did get the battery tested. It's perfectly fine.

 

Jarrod, you say the battery has been tested but what tests and what results?

A simple test is to put a volt meter on the battery and see what the voltage is.
Then get someone to try and start the car and see what the voltage is whilst trying to start.

You could also check the connections on the starter motor and the ground points in the engine bay.

Hope this helps,

Jim

 

Jarrod,
Sorry to hear your car will still not start. I noticed you posted this issue over several threads, so to avoid confusion maybe it's time for a recap. So, this is the scenario as I see it:
1. You have a 2004 with about 120000 miles that you recently bought.
2. The car was running fine, but one day while you were out and about, it failed to start.
3. The car turns over normally.
4. The battery was tested and was determined to be OK.
5. The code reader reads P1111 which means all systems test OK.
6. As far as you know, the car was reasonably well maintained by the previous owner.
Sounds to me like a fuel delivery issue. But there are others here that are far more expert so I will let them advise you.
Best of luck,
Sawduster

 

Jimbov
I had auto do a load test. It's came back at over 90%

Sawduster
Thanks. That's what it sounds like I would say.
Either that or one person at auto zone said maybe the timing belt? I know absolutely nothing about that though.

 

Anyways doing some research I see it has a timing chain. How do I go about checking that? In the off chance it needs replaced

 

jarrod, try this for me. Get yourself a can of starting fluid and remove the brake booster hose connection to the top of the intake. Squirt some starting fluid in there and then put the brake booster line back on the intake. Attempt to start the car.

Did the motor catch for a second or did it just spin? Is the motor even turning over at all?

If the car attempted to start but quickly died, then your problem is fuel related. If this is the case, then I would say to first start by checking to make sure that the inertia switch is still pushed in (this would cause power to be dropped to the fuel pump, leading to the no start). If the car still will not start, then try jacking up the rear of the car and find the fuel tank. You are looking for a little dimpled area in the tank that makes a half moon shape. Take your hand and hit the fuel tank in the middle of this half moon. Attempt to start the car now. If it starts, then odds are you are looking at a bad fuel pump. If the car still will not start, then I would say to have a friend turn the key to the RUN position (do not go to START) and see if you can hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds and then shut itself off. If you don't hear the fuel pump, then odds are you have a bad fuel pump (granted, some electrical checks may be a good check before just blindly replacing the fuel pump).

If the motor turns over but you didn't get any sign that the motor was catching, then you are most likely dealing with a spark issue. I really doubt it is a timing issue as the timing is computer controlled and if you had jumped teeth on the timing chain, things are not going to be good for you as you have an interference engine and if things are out of time, the valves and pistons can make contact. That will not end good. I would check the fuse for the coils to make sure that you don't have a fuse that has failed with age. After that, check the wiring harness near the brake booster. Critters have been known to get into this part of the engine and snack on the wiring harness, leading to all sorts of problems. After that, talk to me and we will see what we can do from there.

If the motor is not turning over at all, then I would start with battery cables. After that, you are most likely looking at a starter. But, before you do a starter, let me know and I will have you do a few other checks to make sure it is the starter and not one of the security systems.

 

You just became my best friend. Thanks for all that. I'll hopefully get to that in the next couple of days. Making time is an issue for me since my wife and I typically work different schedules and we have a 15 month old.

 

Jarrod: If you get in and turn the key and get DSC FAULT(on the dash by spedo.) and it doesn't even attempt to start it is the security system. I have had this a couple of times. I just remove the key open/close the door and try it again.

 

I wish it was that simple

 

OK so the inertia switch was tripped. I reset it and still nothing. I hear the pump turn on. Not too sure if it stays on, I believe it does.
Also I can't find a good reference to tell what fuses are what for my specific model.
I saw on another thread someone with a similar problem and it was computer related. Had to have the dealer reset it because it somehow forgot some programming and had the fuel injectors closed. Does that sound like something I should have checked out?
I'd like to start with fuses and things that I can do myself first. Unless anyone knows a way to reset the computer.
Oh and I haven't checked with starter fluid yet because I can't find any clear instructions on how to pull off the brake booster hose.

 

Jarrod, lets try something first. Get into the car and turn the key to the START position. While holding it there, look down at the center console at the red light just below the shifter. Is that light out or is it flashing? If it is out, then odds are you are looking at an ECU issue. If the light is flashing, then you have a PATS (security) issue and it is not recognizing your key.

As for the brake booster hose. All you need to do is to first push down on the hose. While pushing down, hold the outer ring down as you then lift up on the hose. The hose should slide out without any resistance. From there, you should be able to give a squirt of starter fluid into the intake and see if the car will start.

As for the fuel pump, you should hear it kick on for a few seconds after you roll the key to the RUN/START position. But, once the fuel pump raises the fuel rail pressure to around 50 psi, it should kick off. If the fuel pump continues to run after the first few seconds, then this is a sign of your problem. This would tell me that your fuel pump is most likely bad and it is not building up pressure like it should be.

Along these same lines, if you can hear the fuel pump kick on and then kick off a few seconds later, try rolling the key to the RUN position (do not go to the START position), let the pump turn on and then back off. As soon as the pump turns off, roll the key the rest of the way to the START position and see if the motor starts then. I have seen where fuel pumps as they start to go can not develop sufficient pressure quick enough to allow a continuous roll of the key from OFF to START and be able to get enough pressure to start the car.

As for reseting the computer, the easiest way is to simply remove the negative battery cable, leave it disconnected for a few minutes, then reconnect. This will wipe the ECU memory (and the memory of your windows and radio). If you need directions on how to reset your windows, let me know. Easy thing to do.

 

OK so the red light goes out.
Haha now I feel stupid about the hose. It was simple. Anyway I tried that and it started to catch but didn't start.
No luck with any of that for starting though.
I have my battery disconnected, so I'm waiting on that for a bit.

 

Thermo, so I let the car sit for a few. Just as an extra step sprayed in some more starter fluid... hoping that it would definitely start this time.
Turns out from all the cranking, I successfully killed my battery��
And obviously my wife is at work so I can't jump it. Because why wouldn't she be at a time like this.

 

Jarrod, since it sounds like you have spark (because the motor is trying to catch), it is sounding like your problem is related to the fuel pump. I would say at that point, your best bet would be to get your hands on a fuel pressure gauge and connect it to the schrader valve on top of the engine to measure the fuel rail pressure. With the key in the RUN position but the engine not running, the gauge should be reading 50 psi (40-50 psi is acceptable, but normally runs near the high end of the band). If you are under 40 psi, then the fuel pump is bad. If it is at 0 psi, then I would make sure that the pump is running. If not, then you are looking at an electrical issue between the ECU and the fuel pump. If the pump is running, then you have a bad fuel pump.

You can try spraying more starting fluid into the intake and seeing if the motor will actually run for a second or two. Normally you can make the car do that.

 

ok, so I had someone else come and take a look at it as well. He said he's 99% sure it's the fuel pump. Now doing a little research I saw that this car has two separate pumps. so just so I'm clear, that means I will need two $500 fuel pumps?
Because man that's expensive.
I'm planning on a final check with a multimeter to make sure the pump is getting power. How do I tell if just one is bad?

 

It has only one fuel pump, the other one is just a pick up and level sender unit.

 

jarrod, the one check that I would tell you to try is to jack up the passenger side of your car. With the help of a second person, see if they can hear the fuel pump kick on as you roll the ignition switch to the RUN position (do not go to START). If they don't hear it kick on for a few seconds, have them hit the underside of the fuel tank in the center of the recessed semi circle that is there. Do they hear the fuel pump kick on now? If yes, then this pretty much confirms a fuel pump.

The other check you can do is to connect a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail. That will also tell you if the fuel pump is turning on or not. can't say that I have seen many wiring issues with the fuel pumps. All that I can think of have been the pump itself.