Going to do brakes all the way around, need a little advice.
Is a product like
a waste of money? Are there better alternatives for the price? What about
?
What suggestions do you guys have? I have searched, but didn't come up with much.
What suggestions do you guys have? I have searched, but didn't come up with much.
Last edited by nobodyspecial; Aug 24, 2015 at 10:53 PM.
Just doing some reading around the internet, and saw that a lot of people have seen drilled rotors crack and most racing teams advise against them. It also makes sense that blank rotors have more surface area, which theoretically would mean better stopping power.
I've had Callahan slotted and drilled rotors on for a few years and they still work great, same pads that came with them as well. Probably have like 10k+ miles on them. Drilled rotors can crack, but it typically only happens under very high temps from repeated hard braking or very low quality brake rotors.
The drilled part of the rotors actually helps with getting rid of the heat, and the slots help remove the dust. On occasion I have seen a set of drilled rotors crack, but to date, I have never seen one of our cars at night with bright orange glowing rotors, like on a race car, which typically causes that. The price does seem a little steep though. Just now I saw a set of drilled and slotted rotors, with ceramic pads, for $159, but as you have read, they can be had for even less......Be cool.....Mike
Ebay, I think I paid about 175 for drilled slotted with ceramic pads for our x type 45k and 5 years ago. Haven't had an issues since aside from they are starting to look pretty rusty around the hub. SD are are bit louder but also bite a bit better then non drilled. I just got ours simply because of the price as there weren't any non drilled with ceramic pads avail in the same price cat. aside from economy junk stuff. Just be sure to get the right rear pads and also you'll need one of the $5 ford brake caliper tools.
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Thanks for the tip about the tool, I forgot all about it.
I checked local parts stores, and for their lowest end equipment, it was already significantly over the price of the two amazon links I posted.
I checked local parts stores, and for their lowest end equipment, it was already significantly over the price of the two amazon links I posted.
I think these are the ones I got years ago but it could have been a seller with posi quiet ceramic pads.
Front Rear Drilled Slotted Brake Rotors and 8 Ceramic Pads Jaguar x Type | eBay
Tool wise, I got this cube from a local auto parts place. Can't say it was great to use but it did the trick and it isn't like you are doing it every day like a pro so...
Westward Disc Brake Piston Tool for Imports Ford Chrylser 1EJZ5 | eBay
Front Rear Drilled Slotted Brake Rotors and 8 Ceramic Pads Jaguar x Type | eBay
Tool wise, I got this cube from a local auto parts place. Can't say it was great to use but it did the trick and it isn't like you are doing it every day like a pro so...
Westward Disc Brake Piston Tool for Imports Ford Chrylser 1EJZ5 | eBay
I was actually looking at that exact Brake Motive kit! I have been reading up on them, and they seem to be a very good company, with a quality product at a great price.
How does that little cube work?
How does that little cube work?
I found the $159 4 wheel rotor, and ceramic brake package on Ebay.....If you are going through all the effort, and you can see through your wheels I would paint the calipers too. It looks cool, especially runnin down the road.....Mike
I messed up and wound my caliper the wrong way so it was no longer engaged using a "C" clamp and channel locks. A post on this site said to get it restarted, the piston pressure had to be very even. To get even pressure I used one of those $11.99 AutoZone "cubes". To make it work I used a 6" "C" clamp to keep the cube pins engaged and a screwdriver through the perpendicular ratchet hole to screw it in. It worked like a champ!
Bob, next time you have to press the rear piston in, open the bleed port and do it that way. Then you don't even need a C-Clamp. You can simply press a little bit and the piston will move in with no problem. The only caution with doing it this way is that you need to bleed the caliper after you are done as there is a chance that you can get a little bit of air in there. But then, if you are bleeding the brake when you are doing a brake job, then odds are, you need to change out the fluid anyways and this is a good time to do it since you are already in there.
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