Hi new member here I have a x type,year 2002, engine 2.1 petrol manual the problem is my headlights have stopped working there is no power going to fuse box in engine bay for both left and right headlight all other lights work sidelights fogs,I called the AA who came and temp wired my lights from battery to no.16 n 17 top of fuse and my light have came back on the problem is every time I need lights on I got to pop bonnet and connect the wires for lights to come on or off.
Could someone give me a easy link for a repair manual as not to pc savvy or help with what colour wires are the ones that control the headlights from lightswitch controller in interior of car /how you turn lights on and off so i can rewire.
any help greatly appreciated

 

Toonza, I would say t ofirst start with locating relay R9 in the engine bay fuse box. This is the relay for the headlights in question. Now, look for relays R1 or R2 in the same junction box. These 2 relays (you may only have R1, not R2) affect your windshield wipers. Swap relays R9 and R1 (or R2). Now, attempt to turn on your headlights. Do they work now? If yes, go to your local auto parts store and get a new relay to replace the open spot in R1 (or R2). If there is no change in the headlights working, remove the relay that is now in the R9 position and return it to where you pulled it from. Now, take the original relay R9 and look on the pin side of it. You should see little numbers next to the pins (1 through 5). I want you to note where pins 3 and 5 are. Now, relate those to the holes in the fuse box for relay R9. With the relay still removed, insert a jumper wire between the holes where pins 3 and 5 are. Do the lights come on now? If no, then you need to check fuse F1. This is most likely blown. Replace with a new fuse and repeat the jumper wire test. If the headlights still do not come on, then you have an issue with your fuse box and a new one will most likely be needed. If the headlights do come on, then insert relay R9 (the original one that was there) and see if your headlights function normally. if they do, all fixed. If not, repeat the R1 and R9 swap to see if the problem does correct itself. YOu may need to verify that fuse F1 is still good because of relay R9 failed internally, it may be blowing fuse F1. If the swapping the relays makes things all better or fuse F1 blew again, buy a new relay and install. If swapping the relays does not fix things, then let me know as you have a problem with the control circuit and further investigation is needed.

 

What he said, except I would check the fuse first. They fail a lot more often than do relays.

 

Hi relay were swapped all fused checked its none of them when you remove fuses 16 n 17 and check using multimeter there is no power at all to get the lights to work you need to have live coming from battery to were fuse should be but is removed to connect feed light come on

 

Toonza, then we have 2 issues. i would first start with using a multimeter to check to verify that you have 12 VDC at fuse F1. If you have 12 VDC on both terminals (see the little silver terminals on the top of the fuse), then we know you have power up to the relay. This is where the jumper wire I talked about would have proven this, but you don't mention doing that check.

Making the assumption that we have a control circuit issue, The first thing to check is fuse F67 in the passenger compartment fuse box to see if that is blown. Granted, if that was blown, I would expect you to be complaining about a few other things not working like your brakes feeling funny (not having ABS, let alone the ABS light), a check engine light that would have a code related to transmission issues, and loss of voice activated controls (if equipped), You can also prove that you have power to the relay by removing the relay R9 and measuring terminal 1 to chassis ground to verify 12 VDC there (should be there any time the key is in the RUN position). If you are good up to this point, then we have a grounding issue. To prove this, you can simply connect the multimeter between pin 2 and chassis ground. Then, if you turn your headlight switch to the headlight position, the resistance reading should go from a very high value to essentially 0 ohm (anything less than 5 ohms is good). If the reading remains high, then you will need to repeat this check at terminal 13 on the headlight switch plug (should be a green wire with a black stripe). If the resistance still does change there, you have a bad wire between the headlight switch and the engine bay fuse box. If the resistance still did not change, then move over to terminal 6 (should have a black wire on it), this should be a low resistance regardless of the position of the headlight switch. If it is a high reading, then you need to fix the ground wire. If the resistance is low, then you have a bad headlight switch.

 

hi changed f1 fuse today still no lights waiting for friend to come with multimeter to check WILL POST ONCE HE BEEN

 

Hi sorry its been a couple of days so we took R9 relay out then use wire to jump between 3 n 5 lights came on so removed jump wire and tried different relays still no lights. .
F1 fuse ok not blown when using multimeter on the prongs that F1 fuse sits on the had current of around 3.5.
There is 2 green wire with black stripe on back of light switch inside car, terminal 13 had a reading 0.8 when lights off and 5.5 when turning lights on.
The solid black wire on back of same switch had a reading 3.2 when off and 3.9 when turned on

 

If you had voltage on the black wire, then that is bad. Your black wire is either broken or not connected. That is why your headlights are not working.

 

The black wire i talking about is on the back of the controller switch inside car that turns lights on and off is this correct and thank you for your patience and time.

 

Hi Toonza,
Just to clarify the testing steps Thermo has given you...seeing you have checked and eliminated R9 and jumpered across it to bring lights on.

If you measure the DC voltage you have on the pin 13 of the headlight switch connector with your headlights off, you should have 12 volts present there. If you do not have that voltage present then you need to check fuse 67 (which Thermo has mentioned to you previously). If fused 67 failed, then that is your issue....replace fuse.

If the fuse is fine and you have 12 volts at pin 13, when you switch the headlights on, that 12 volts present at pin 13 should drop to zero. If it doesn't then check the voltage present on pin 6 of the plug with headlights on and it should be earth...if it is much above zero (greater than 1 volt) then you likely have a bad earth wire leading to the earth connection point on the cross beam under the dashboard.

If you have 12 volts at pin 13, and turn light switch on and have zero volts at pin 6, then you might have a faulty light switch assembly, you could try a jumper across pins 13 to 6 to confirm relay fires and headlights come on.

 

Toonza, if you measured from the black wire to chassis ground and got a high resistance/voltage on that wire, then that confirms that wire is bad. If you recently did work in that area of the car, then I would be looking at what you did and if you damaged that black wire.

 

hi the only work I have had done was on my passanger side (left hand side of car as in UK) sill welded and new break lines all lights were working after this work but lights stopped a day or 2 later.

next question is were does the black wire run to is it the fuse box (engine bay)and if so which is the 1st place it would connect would it be F1 fuse or R9 RELAY or does it go to fuse box inside car 1st then to engine bay.

Thank You everyone who has commented on my thread

 

Toonza, the black wire runs to a ground point under the dash. If you look under the dash, you should see where a bolt is attached to the body of the car and you will see 5 wires or so bolted down to the body of the car. That is the ground point. The circuit for the control of your headlights is essentially from fuse F1, through the control half of relay R9, back through the headlight switch, to the ground point. Since the only moving part is the headlight switch, if you know you have good continuity through the headlight switch, the next most likely failure point is the ground wire.

 

Thnk You I will let the thread know after I have done more investigations

 

Hello help needed i have changed f1 fuse which was blown,I have brought a new relay and switch,the lights still done come on unless I use the wire bypass. When I do the lights next to the main are very dim. I am at my wits end any help much appreciated.

 

First things first. Are we dealing with HID headlights or standard halogen bulbs (box on the back of the headlight bulb or just wires?)? Secondly, I would say to remove both sets of headlights, install a new fuse F1 and "Turn ON" your headlights. Did Fuse F1 blow again? If yes, then we know you have a problem with the wiring harness of the car, not a headlight issue. Write me back and we can go from there.

If fuse F1 is still good, then plug in only the driver's side headlight. Turn on your headlights. Did fuse F1 blow? If yes, then unplug and we know we atleast have an issue with the driver's side headlights. Making sure that fuse F1 is good (replace as necessary), ensure the driver's side headlight assembly is disconnected and connect the passenger side headlight. Turn on the headlights. Did fuse F1 blow? If yes, then we know we have a problem with the passenger headlgiht assembly. Write me and tell me what you have as results.

If you have halogen bulbs (ie, no boxes on the back of your headlight bulbs), I would look at the wiring there and make sure all that is good and you do not have damaged wiring. A common issue is the headlight bulb gets hot and essentially cooks the wiring, causing the insulation to fail and it to ground out, blowing fuses.

On final detail to make sure we are talking about the correct car here, we are talking about a 01-03 Jaguar X-Type. If this is not the case, then we are possibly on a wild goose chase looking at fuse F1 as there was a wiring change made mid year in 04. If your car is an 04, then I need the build date from the driver's door jag on the sticker that is there.. It will say "BLT DATE" and have something after it stating when the car was built. All of this info is necessary to make sure we are not going down a wrong path.

 

Many thanks I will give all this ago tomorrow hopefully I can get some answers for you. It is a 2002 x-type not sure how long the problem has been going on for. Only just got the car so am trying to sort all problems,some other electrical problems like the key fob will only open boot and passenger doors not drivers or drivers rear. Thanks again will keep you posted.

 

James, Sounding like you have halogen bulbs and the wiring has gotten hot and is now shorting out. To tell if you have HID bulbs, this can be done a few ways:

-Look for the sticker by the hinge in the driver's door. It will specifically state that the car is equipped with "High Intensity Discharge" headlights.
-When turning on the headlights, do they tend to snap on, dim, then get bright again over a few seconds or do they simply start a little dim then get brighter. The snap on/dim/get bright again is what an HID bulb will do
-when pulling the headlight assembly plug apart, do you have 1 wire for pins 9 and 10 or do you have 2 black wires there. If you have 2 wires, HID. 1 wire, standard halogen.

If you need information specific to HID bulbs, let me know. They are not like your standard H1 bulb. There are a few more "tricks" to them.

 

Many thanks for your info lights are all fixed now it was the pins where the relay goes in just needed a bit of bending back,must of become loss over the years. Nice easy fix was going out my mind. What in your opinion is the best bulbs to upgrade too.

 

James, for simplicity, i would say to upgrade to 5000K 35 watt HIDs. If you look up "Thermo HID", you should find tons of information on why I say what I say here and also how to wire them up. The big thing is keeping the ballast box outside of the headlight housing (most will fit on the frame under the headlight housing). You can then drill a 3/4" or 1" hole in the back of the headlight housing cover to allow you to run the wires into and out of the headlight housing without allowing water into the housing as most HID kits come with a seal for you to install to allow what I am saying.

At this point, I am going to emphasize something that you probably think I made a type with. Please note that I said a "35 watt HID bulb". This is NOT A TYPO. The factory HIDs are only 35 watt. The 35 watt HIDs output over twice what the halogen bulbs do (1500 lumen for halogens, around 3300 lumen for HIDs). 50 watt HID fit into the car just fine. Granted, you run the risk of destroying your relay as you are putting too much of a surge on the relay (20 amp relay can surge to 30 amps, but two 50 watt ballasts starting will pull up near 60 amps). If you want that crystal white light, then step up to the 6000K bulbs, but you are going to loose a little bit in the way of light (3200 lumen vice 3300, big deal?). If you like the look of the factory halogen bulbs, then you can go with the 3300K bulbs. If you go above 6000K, the bulbs can start turning blue/purple and that tends to draw the wrong attention you want (cops) and if you go below 3300K, the light is very yellow (can't even remotely call it white light).

I have lots of write ups and comments on what are good brands to go with to prevent having issues in the future. A little extra time with the wiring now will saves tons of issues later.