Hi i'm new to the forum i have been using it for a while but always found what i needed with out registration .

Well first of all i brought my 2001 x type 2.5 v6 sport in phoenix red (156k miles) 2 owners from new I'm the third, back in may, and its been faultless pretty much since then.

About two weeks ago the car ran out of fuel and i tried to crank it over just to get 300 yards to the filling station , it did start and get me there so i filled her up and carried on my journey to work faultlessly.

About 2 days after i had a problem where it lacked power from 800rpm's-3000rpm's and would shake the car badly when accelerating in 3rd gear say at 25-30mph.

then a day after i was getting the ''cruise not available'' message along with the yellow light , that was coming on and off intermittently.

so i thought i might of dragged the scale of the tank so i changed the fuel filter and ran some injector cleaner through the system to to avail.

now when the tank runs low and petrol light comes on the ''cruise not available'' message and yellow light will not appear, But the moment i fill the tank up be it half way a quarter or full , that message and yellow light will come on intermittently.

I have had the codes read and this is what i get..

P0302- (cylinder misfire detected-cylinder #2)
P1316-- i think injector error ?
P0037-- downstream sensor (cat) ?
P1000
P1646- O2 Sensor upstream Bank 1

now i just wanted some input before i go buying new parts, i am thinking maybe i have a blocked injector not really sure. not even sure if its just a coincidence that this problem appeared a few days after running out of fuel :S.

i have read about the vacuum leaks and my car does have the old type crank breather pipe it doesn't have no leaks but if i move it a tiny bit with engine on it will hiss so i have ordered the newer ribbed type.

and also i don't have not engine malfunction light even when i do the bulb test or just leave ignition on i think maybe the bulb has gone or is there a fuse someone could of removed ?

Sorry for the long write up.

Thanks a million

Tommy.

 

oh forgot to mention fuel pressure is 55psi on idle

thanks tommy

 

Hi Tommy,

Here's the fault codes, you may need to ask someone like Thermo as he is knowledgeable in many areas.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...des-faq-18395/

If I can help, I will, good luck!! Stu

 

http://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x-...ats-fix-40514/

Above is a post which Thermo has helped with.

Good luck it sounds like you'll have to go shopping, but I hope your baby is fixable (which I am sure she is!!) and you are back on the road soon!

I have to dash but hang in there, the guys here are great Tommy and you will be sorted!!

ATB (all the best), Stu

 

Okay thanks mate i did find something similar,
I'm just trying to find out if running the tank out would throw these codes.

The garage i had the car from said to change the plugs which is what i think i am going to do along withe the 6 upper and 6 lower gaskets once i find where to purchase those , i also might try swapping the coil from cylinder 2 to another see if the code follows i have now brought a code reader save keep going to the garage

 

Is cylinder 2 on the front of then engine radiator side ?

If so i can swap the coils round fairly quickly to eliminate a bad coil on cylinder 2 ?

Many thanks

Tommy.

 

i have this from a cd i brought from ebay but still not sure if its usa or uk model any one shed any light ?

thanks tommy

 

P1000 is only there if you've recently cleared the codes or power to the PCM has been lost. It's not a fault if you know which of those applies and why.

All P1 codes are make/model-specific so be sure to use appropriate sources of data.

On many cars now, misfires are commonly due to bad coils. Doubt it'll be an injector. You could swap the suspect coil with another and see if the fault moves if you like but otherwise just stick a new one in.

 

yes i did clear the codes earlier on today all the same ones come back on though.

which cylinder is no.2 ?

front of engine or rear ?

So you think the fact i ran the fuel tank dry has nothing to do with the problem i have ?

Would running the fuel tank dry damage a coil ?

as soon as i know which is cylinder 2 i will change it

Kind Regards

 

Bank 2 is closest to the radiator right next to the oil filler (so front left coil). I had a similar situation and received P0302. What I did to confirm the issue with the coil was to switch it with bank 4 (to the right of bank 2). Cleared the codes then re-tested and received P0304 which confirmed that it was the coil. I would recommend trying this first. Mine went out for no apparent reason.

Here's the thread.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...30-mph-105560/

 

okay i will swap it over tomorrow glad i don't have to remove intake manifold

i also got code

P1646 fuel relay 2 - malfunction ...According to my reader. But searching on google and across the forum i also see the fault code: P1646 described as ''Linear O2 Sensor Control Chip (Bank 1)''

This would make sense for it to be a fuel relay problem as when i fill the fuel tank i get the message ''cruise not available'' and the yellow light.

When fuel tank is near empty i don't get that message, How would i check the fuel relay 2 malfunction ?

I really dont know but hoping to find out will see how it goes when i swap the coil tomorrow if weather permits been raining hard all evening

Thanks for all the replies guys

Tommy

 

Hi again managed to swap the coil and plug from cylinder ''2'' to cylinder ''4''.

Have taken the car for a good drive and now the misfire as moved to cylinder ''4''

has my scanner now has fault codes..

P0304
P1316
P0037
P1646

ordered a new coil and will get that on asap

i just have a few questions if any of you could help.

Would that misfire cause all the other fault codes to show ?

and i have a funny smell coming from the engine like a hot plastic smell ?

1 more thing is, as soon as i fill my fuel tank to a quarter or above then i get the orange light on dash and the words ''cruise not available''

Why does this only show when the fuel tank is at a quarter or above?

many thanks

Tommy

 

hi just taken it out for another run and now have 1 extra code the codes showing are

P0304
P1314
P1316
P0037
P1646

Are all these related to the misfire do you think ?

Also that smell i mentioned earlier smells like burning tyres ?

Has anyone experienced this before

many many thanks Tommy.

 

Tommy
I can't say what the smell is but it DO know that fuel pumps do not like to be run dry.The fuel cools the pump. Just like a pressure washer pump,you run it dry you loose the volume because you wrecked the seal.Unless in your haste you went to a low-volume gas station and picked up some bad gas(water,or someone mixed some diesel in it), that will raise havock with the sensors and kick a multitude of codes.

 

Tommy
Just a quick thought on the smell. With the misfiring it COULD be dumping extra raw fuel or bad fuel into the exhaust(cats) and there burning it off (hot)and THAT will give a rubber smell.A most likely scenario.

 

tommy, odds are, the smell you are smelling is the cat getting really warm. You need to get that new coil on as soon as you can.

As for the "Cruise Not Available" message, depending on what is causing it, the computer does some checks of the car based on the level of gas in the fuel tank (ie, Evap system leak check is one, it only checks this when the fuel tank level is between 3/4 and 1/4). Granted, normally what causes the message you are getting it either a bad vacuum hose or you have gunk built up inside your throttlebody and it is causing the computer to not see the reactions it is expecting.

If you want to clean the throttlebody, it is easy to do. Let me know and I will assist.

From the sounds of things, all of your codes are based on that bad coil. As for the "Cruise Not Available", it may be because of the P1316/P1314 codes trying to minimize the power the engine can make and therefore any possible damage that might occur to the cat. Hence why I am saying you need to get the new coil on as soon as you can.

 

WoW thanks for all the replies i have put the new coil on and its driving just as good as it was the day i got it .

No nasty smell now either!

I have re scanned the car now and only have 2 codes which are

P0037
P1646

Maybe this is why they removed the Engine malfunction light ?

But the car is running perfect now, So chuffed and i would not of done it with out this forum or any of you guys so grateful for the help !!

i will be getting the new parts needed once i found out which those codes relate to

Thanks a million Tommy.

 

Tommy, P0037 is the Bank 1 downstream O2 sensor having a low resistance which either means the O2 sensor has a bad heater or the wiring to the heater is damaged and therefore is not heating up the sensor. P1646 is the Bank 1 upsteam O2 sensor having a low resistance which again is either a bad O2 sensor or damaged wiring. Since you have both sensors acting up, I would be leaning towards a wiring issue. It is very possible that some wiring has gotten moved around recently and it has come in contact with the exhaust system and is then grounding out. Something you may want to check out is because it is a potential wiring issue, open the hood and check fuse F38 in the engine bay fuse box and make sure that the 30 amp fuse that is there is still good. It is possible that you simply blew the fuse which would then take out the heater and give you what you are seeing.

If you need further assistance, let me know. Hopefully it is something very easy to deal with. Oh, by the way, bank 1 is the back side of the engine against the firewall. Not the easiest of O2 sensors to get at. So, hopefully it is nothing more than just the fuse.

 

ok i will check the fuse tomorrow how do i check simply looking for the broken wire inside the fuse ? or do i need a special tool ?

i was reading about the sensors and apparently if im right the lower one is the easier 1 ?

i did read somebody mentioned getting a ''cranked'' 02 lambda sensor socket ?

I know they are a nightmare to get out even when access is not as limited as the x type, saying that i have always used spanners not special sockets.

will let you know what i find i have checked the wiring briefly where both sensor wires meet up top right of the manifold all seemed fine.

Best regards tommy

 

Tommy, ideally, you want to put a multimeter (set to resistance) to verify that the fuse has a low resistance (should be under 1 ohm once you subtract out the lead resistance). But, that is why I say to put it into another spot so you can prove that the fuse is good. 99.9% of the time, when the fuse fails, it is obvious. But, there are times where it can do some goofey things.

As for a "special socket", they make one specifically for the O2 sensors. The side of the socket is cut out so you can slide the plug through the socket and let it hand out the side as you put the socket wrench on the end and spin the sensor off. If you have some metal cutting tools, you could make your own out of a deep well socket that fits over the O2 sensor. Just leave a solid ring all the way around about 1/4" tall at the base of the socket and don't cut out over 1/3 of the socket wall. That will leave you enough strength in the socket to let you really put some force on the sensor.

Using an impact socket is best as they are heat treated and are made out of a stronger steel. But, these also cost more and make it more difficult to cut since they are stronger.