I called and they said they didn't cut keys for Jaguar.

 

Odd, there a big long post (search) from a guy a few years ago in Wichita about key cutting and fob programming and that's who he recommended.

 

I remember seeing that post and that post is why I originally called. I thought it was odd too that they wouldn't cut jag keys anymore. Maybe the only guy with the right tools left.

 

The wonderful Tibbe key...back "in the day" (mid-late 90's) the only key more complex was the Mercedes & BMW "laser" cut key.

If I were in your dilemma and didn't want to spend a boat-load of money; I would buy a set of jewelers files, place your original key side by-side with the new key blank, and go to work..

Caveat! After you "cut" the blank; give it a good going over with some 000 steel wool to smooth out (age) the key as your original. If you remove the door lock key cylinder; it greatly helps with the trial and fit process.

JMHO,

BK

 

That'll work with one of these?

 

It will but it won't start the car without being programmed.

 

Will I be able to program the key to the car by following this video?

 

No, that will pair the fob but not the key transponder, it's two separate operations.

 

This whole process has been difficult. The only local locksmith that can cut and program jaguar keys has been a no show on 3 separate occasions the past couple weeks.

 

my key fell apart it didn't break I think it's fixable but I don't know exactly how to put it back together

Need help on how to put this back together idk where this little black thing goes or where to put the spring exactly i see the button goes in the center of the key but what about the spring and this black thing idk if its some type of sensor or what but i need advice on how to put it nack together

 

Looks to me like you are not the kind of person, who would buy a puzzle...

It's probably easier, if you take 2 and 3 apart first - but maybe it works like that as well: Transponder 1 goes into its "bed" as indicated. Add a bit of double-sided sticky take or glue. Then turn over 6 and place it over 5 - there is only one correct way - one of the 4 "arms" of 5 is wider, and this arm goes into the widest gap of 6. Next: Spring 4 goes into 5. I can not see it in your picture, but I think spring 4 has an "arm" sticking out on both ends? If that is so, one arm needs to be located inside of 5 and as for the other spring arm: That spring-arm then goes exactly into its "bed" in 2 as indicated. Then you turn 6 one turn anti-clockwise, hold it in position and press the lid (I forgot to give it a number) over it. Done.

 

JD412,

I've given each item a reference letter (in red) to hopefully help with the explanation.



Part A is the key's security transducer - it is a small cylindrical RFID unit that contains a unique code the car recognizes via the car security system.
Part A and I assume part B be will fit inside the Transducer cavity of part G. (Part B is probably just a rubber or foam filler to stop the transducer rattling within the key fob).

Parts C, D and E are the key rotation mechanism parts.
Starting with the main fob body (G) laying down with the pivot shaft facing up, place the spring (D) over the pivot shaft so the end of the spring that has the additional straight leg lands in the groove just above where I placed the letter G in your photo.
That should then restrict the spring from rotating on the pivot shaft.
Now fit the push button (part C) on top of the spring and the spring should find a natural locking position inside the hollow button.
Next, introduce the tibbe key (D) by placing it over the button with the four notches facing downwards. The key shaft should be pointed upward and in fact be just slightly over rotated so the key shaft will end up with some rotational tension to hold it securely in the extended position once the fob us fully assembled.
Now you can place the top casing (F) over the button and key assembly slightly rotating it clockwise to until the button seats into appropriate detents (the button should protrude slightly), then pushing down and rotating until you can align with the bottom casing to then clip together.
You should now have a button that has tension when you press it and a key shaft that wants to flick open when the button is pressed, but lock int eh closed position when you collapse the key.

 

Hi Mark, did you start working on your reply/manual before my reply was uploaded/visible in the thread?

I still think that the Tibbe needs to be turned anti-clockwise before the final lid goes on. But you will know, if you did it wrong, when the key does not flip out (spring-loaded), but it flips in (spring-loaded) instead. I did that already a few times... - and I did not like it that way...

Btw.: If you can't close the lid that means that you did not place 6 over 5 in the correct position. There is only one correct way (out of the 4 theoretical possible ones).

PS: The reasons as to why I disassembled those parts already a few times:
I further disassembled part 6, using a nail to hammer out that splint. I then could remove the actual Tibbe key, which is a blanc on the 25 Flip-keys I bought long ago in China. And from there:

1. I have mailed that little part to a very fair locksmith in Melbourne to have them cut. Most other locksmith just want to rob you. There is a way to "read" the key combination on those 4-cut Tibbe keys: I can read it by just looking at it. The locksmith can do that too, and I always email him pictures taken from the side of the OE key. He always got it wrong. Local - super expensive - locksmith' try to justify their exorbitant cost with "how difficult it is" to get the cut right - frankly, I don't see, how one can get it wrong, if one knows what he is doing....

2. The other thing I did - and that was quite tricky: My 1998 X308 has a 5-cut tibbe key (the shaft is longer and it has one more cut). The OE keys were normal keys with a transponder implemented and the key-fob-remote was separate and frankly it was not possible to buy additional remotes. Also, I think it was one of those remotes, which one cannot program himself (like e.g. a 2004 S-Type key fob) without buying a lot of gadgets. Hence, somehow I figured out that - I think it was - a 2002 X308 onwards has a different security module, which can then communicate with flip-keys (the 1998 X308 security module cannot do that). I found a 2002 (or was it 2003?) X308 security module on ebay, switched modules and then I easily - without any special tools - programmed 4 flip-keys into the new security module of the X308. Obviously the X308 has the longer tibbe-keys, so I did remove that little plastic cross-strut in front of the 4-cut tibbe key in the housing to get extra space and now I have 4 fully operational flip keys for my X308 as well. I order those 4 shafts from the locksmith in Melbourne - he took his 5-cut blanks (normal key with a bit of plastic at end (no transponder), I then cut out the key-shaft from that plastic, which had luckily the same shape that I needed to fit into the other half of part 6 and then I fitted that splint again (which a nail and a hammer)

 

Hi Peter,

Yes I was writing my response in between activities at work, so took a while and I hadn't refreshed the page prior to finishing....

 

Contact a member here named Sone. He makes Tibbe keys and does programming also. Tell him Tony sent u

 

Whom are you addressing regarding contacting Sone and most of all: Why?
I'd say the problem is solved.
Maybe JD412 can confirm that the key is back in one piece?

 

Great explanation, but it's a transPONDER, not a transDUCER. There's enough opportunity for confusion, especially if looking for parts . . .