Don't mind the oil drain plug being out, I was changing oil at the time of pics.






Where do you suppose all that oil is coming from on the fins and exhaust pipe? The only wet drip i can find is the one you see in the pics from the drive shaft seal. Anybody know how hard of job that is to replace that seal? I am pretty good mechinical but this is the first Jag I have worked on.

It is a 2002 X-type 3.0L.

 

I saw something similar on mine. Also a 02 X-Type 3.0L. I couldn't hunt down the leak to save my life. Then I noticed that my A/C Compressor was also wet. Turns out it pretty much died after 8years and 110k miles, and burped all it's oil out over time. That's where it was coming from for me. I would also take the time to check the power steering pump as well. Hope that helps you out.

As far as those 2 little wet spots, I don't know how to do it. But I can say that the drivetrain is made by Ford, so chances are it's a pretty simple and inexpensive seal to replace.

 

Looks like you may have 2 leaks. The worst one that is putting transfer case fluid on the exhaust is the jack shaft sealing washer. There is a service bulletin and fix for this. Part numbers are c2s11455 for the nut which is $7.56, the sealing washer is c2s11376 and is $11.47. You may also have a transfer case output flange seal leak where the drip is hanging below the propshaft. I would fix the jack shaft first and see if that is where the fluid is coming from near the propshaft.

 

Thanks for helping!
Can you point me in the right direction for the service bulletin to fix this? Is this a job a normal fella going to be able to handle or is there special tools requried?

 

I don't see the bulletin in the bulletin list on this site. I don't know if it's worth trying to track down. It was meant for techs to let them know the parts to fix this were available. For the first couple of years the only way to fix this was to replace the t-case.

If you look up behind the exhaust pipes at the end of the t-case you will see a large inch and sixteenth nut on the end of the jack shaft that secures a sealing washer much like a drain plug washer against the transfer case. It is this washer that is leaking. Most likely the nut is loose and after the nut comes loose the washer slips down making the leak even larger. All you need to do is remove that nut and install a new sealing washer and new nut.

My suggestion would be to look at the situation closely and decide for yourself if you can handle the job. The heat shield on the rear exhaust downpipe is in the way and there isn't a lot of room for socket access to the nut. I use a specially modified socket to reach the nut without removing anything but the heat shield. It's a 10 minute job for me but keep in mind I have been doing this for nearly 30 years and have been fixing X-Types since they were introduced.

I don't have a torque spec in front of me but I should be able to post it tomorrow. A trick to make the job easier is to super glue the new washer to the new nut so it sits nice and square. The hardest part about putting the new nut and washer back on without removing exhaust pipes is trying to hold the washer centered behind the nut to get a good seal. The super glue eliminates this problem. Don't forget to stake the new nut after installation so it can't back off again. A little Lock Tite on the threads wouldn't hurt either.

 

Thanks for all the the help. I would really like that torque spec if you can. So if I were to bring this in for repair it would be about a 30 min job and cost of parts? Is this the normal fix for that seal now or are the dealers still pushing for a new transfer case?

 

The torque spec is 20Nm.

The bulletin lists warranty labor of .8 hours and the bulletin says to remove the exhaust pipe for access. If you live in a southern state it may be easy to get the pipe off. In Michigan that is a losing proposition it's better to work around it. Non warranty labor time would normally be 1.2 hours for the job. we are getting $120/hour so at this dealer it would be $144 plus parts and fluid.

This is the way to fix it, just make sure you refill the t-case as it only holds half a liter or so of fluid.

 

Thanks so much for all the info. I am going to take a look at it and see if I can get around the exhaust pipe, since I live in Minnesota, it won't come off easy. If I don't have the tools to get around it I will maybe have to spend the bucks to take it in. but to me 20 bucks in part and some of my blood might be worth more then a 200 bill.