I know I know I'm sure it has been answered but only.partially to me I have not found an answer I'm pleased with. I'm sorry to everyone who.is getting annoyed with this question . My headlight melted into the socket and of course the dealer wants.to sell you everything that has to do with a headlight when you tell them the issue. So I wanted to ask the very knowledgeable forums opinion. My plan was to take this harness http://www.racinglab.com/kyo-pnp-wh-h1.html and cut the back off and hardwire it into the original socket after cutting the melted socket off. Follow that by soldering and heatshrinking the wire to look proffessional. Any opioms any one?

 

mrfixon88, stop by your local auto parts store. They should have a generic H1 bulb plug for you to buy. Probably cost you $5 per plug (much less normally). From there, do like you are saying and splice the new plug into the factory wiring harness. Depending on the plug, may be able to even go to the factory spot inside the headlight housing to make a "like factory" connection.

I have found if you can stop by say a NAPA parts store, they tend to carry more of the electrical stuff than other stores do.

 

I had this issue a couple of years ago and changed over to HIDS. I've attached a word doc write-up. Hope this helps.

 

mrfizon88, if you aren't looking to switch to HIDs then the fix Thermo is describing is simple. You just need small hands to work in the headlight area. If I recall, the current bulb holder probably has two wires going to it, yellow and maybe brown. Solder a new H1 bulb holder to the yellow and a new female spade connector to the brown. There is a male spade on the side of the bulb hold down clip that you can connect the brown wire to. Done it.

PS some dealers actually have the "two wire' fix for a few bucks. Some tell you you need to replace the entire harness.

 

Your dealer should have the repair terminals in stock. We finally put ours in parts stock instead of the original placement in the wiring kit. The part numbers are in the attached bulletin.

Cheers,

 

Here is the original EPQR FAQ document we got for for the melted connectors.
It came with PICS.

bob gauff

 

It's good to see that JAg has finally gotten around to this. I remember my dealer wanted to replace the whole light assembly! Crazy. Hence my upgrades to HIDS, which I would still recommend.

 

Jag got around to it 6 years ago (June 2005)

bob gauff

 

Thank you everyone for all the help. I was able to.find the connector at auto zone and all I have to do is hardwire it tomorrow. Jaguar is still trying to get away with whole assembly garbage don't fall for it. Everyone recommends hid. I want to put them in my car but once I hardwire this new connector in will the hids still be safe for plug and play? If not and I hardwire them anyone have some pointers or even instruction? Haha and the hid I want 6000k hyper white what is a good site to get them from for a good price where they don't warm up or change colors or a good named brand.

 

Also @dalecan what was the light you put in for the headlight blinked again. Also once changed what color does it blink

 

Thanks everybody but now I have to revisit this. I went to go put the new socket in and i saw the ground wired was attached to the old one. If I cut the ground wire off where could i get the connection to attach it to the back of the headlamp. The other side has the ground wire attached to the back of the headlamp wonder if the other side should do the same

 

I have read you post on your problem I either missed or you never said why did headlight melt in the first place?????? Where you using a higher watt bulb they specified?

 

There is a design flaw in the bulb connector that has been discussed a few times on these boards. The grounding tabs only lightly grip the sides of the bulb base, and over time the connection between the tabs and the bulb get dirty/tarnished and resistance starts to build in the connection.

Resistance=heat and the plug socket starts to melt. It can be in this melty condition for a long time and is usually not discovered until the bulb burns out and the person changing the bulb finds that they are unable to separate the bulb from the connector.

Jaguar redesigned the connector so that only the positive wire connects to the bulb itself, and the ground wire is removed from the connector and gets a separate spade-plug connection to a previously unused grounding tab adjacent to the bulb.

 

Doesn't the new connector have a spade connection on it ans someone mentioned in a post, if it does all you need to get for the ground wire is a female spade connector and attach it to the wire and plug it in, I would think. Did you get the Jaguar connector or an aftermarket?
It's gonna be a lonely Christmas.................. The Orioles 1954

 

Does anyone have a pic of the back of the headlamp assembly that has been repaired using off the rack parts? Did anyone just go to autozone and get an H1 socket and plug it in? Is this a viable solution or do I have to pay the $50 for the Jaguar part?

 

Attached is a pic of the headlamp once repaired with the new individual connectors. The connector shells are of a High Temp material to stand up to the heat of the lamp. I'm not sure the Auto Zone leads can take that heat. Our Parts Dept. retails them for about $16 each; I don't think that's prohibitive. The part numbers from SPX are: 418-411-76 and 418-411-77.

Good luck!

 

Thanks very much!