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Old Nov 29, 2015 | 12:53 PM
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Default Misfire

My X has it's first running fault. Yesterday could feel a slight misfire, then EML light on, managed to get home ok and today read the codes.

P0301 - Misfire Detected in no1 Cylinder
P1313 - P1313 Misfire Rate Catalyst Damage Fault

I have checked the PCV pipe and it seems ok, I then cleared the codes. When I restarted, the EML is on again but no new codes stored and also the red transmission light come on and car is jolting when I put it into drive and doesn't seem like it would accelerate.

Would a misfire cause the transmission light to come on?

Thanks for any help.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2015 | 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by topanga
My X has it's first running fault. Yesterday could feel a slight misfire, then EML light on, managed to get home ok and today read the codes.

P0301 - Misfire Detected in no1 Cylinder
P1313 - P1313 Misfire Rate Catalyst Damage Fault

I have checked the PCV pipe and it seems ok, I then cleared the codes. When I restarted, the EML is on again but no new codes stored and also the red transmission light come on and car is jolting when I put it into drive and doesn't seem like it would accelerate.

Would a misfire cause the transmission light to come on?

Thanks for any help.
As #1 cylinder is easily accesible, the first thing to do is check the coil connection to #1 cylinder.. If it looks good and electrical wiring looks good, remove the coil connector then remove the spark plug and inspect that.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2015 | 01:34 AM
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Thanks, but isn't no1 cylinder underneath the inlet manifold? But that will be my plan when I get chance to do it later in the week.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2015 | 02:17 AM
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Any misfire can cause enough hassle to upset the trans. Fix misfire and trans probably happy again.

Note that P1313. Don't keep letting misfires happen!

If #1 is awkward to get at I'd get a good coil and swap it in. Unless your plugs are due changing I'd be surprised if it's a plug fault.

If they are due, do 'em while it's apart.
 

Last edited by JagV8; Nov 30, 2015 at 02:19 AM.
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Old Nov 30, 2015 | 02:32 AM
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Thanks JagV8. I changed the plugs at 72k and it's now done 100k. I might swap the plugs and no1 coil around from front to back to see if the misfire code changes.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2015 | 06:13 AM
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Originally Posted by topanga
Thanks, but isn't no1 cylinder underneath the inlet manifold? But that will be my plan when I get chance to do it later in the week.
Yes, my mistake... Sorry, lol
Rear bank far leftside plug
1 3 5
2 4 6
 
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Old Dec 5, 2015 | 06:12 AM
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Update - Read the live data from the scanner and initially had high fuel trim readings which went to zero (ish) at 2000rpm so thought air leak. The PCV pipe rubber seemed a little soft but no splits so replaced it anyway. Re started car and was as smooth as a nut but it has a slight hesitation every now and again and gearbox light keeps coming on (no engine light this time) so i can't drive it. Fuel trims are fine:

SHRTFT1 0
LONGFT1 -0.8
SHRTFT2 -0.8
LONGFT2 -3.9

MAP Pressure is 9.2inHG and fuel pressure 54.8psi, so i seem to have sorted the air leak but why is the gearbox light coming on and why the occasional hesitaion? Any help appreciated.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2015 | 07:19 AM
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topanga: Just spitballing...... Check the electrical connector at the bottom, front of the throttle body. It's prone to become brittle with heat & age, sometimes causing an intermittent connection. It's not a problem until you disturb it, e.g. while looking for a vacuum leak.

Sometimes you can stabilize it with a nylon zip tie or epoxy, sometimes you need to replace the connector. It's a standard Ford to Denso connector, Motorcraft WPT-1269, shown here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...5/#post1340696
 
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Old Dec 5, 2015 | 08:09 AM
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Thanks dwclapp, I'll take a look at that before it goes dark.

When I switched it off earlier the gearbox light was on. Just been out to it again, no light, running really well and been for a short drive, so far so good. Will take it for a longer drive later and report back.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2015 | 10:06 AM
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With luck it may just be relearning that the fuelling is as it should have been but wasn't.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2015 | 11:41 AM
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To build on JagV8's suggestion, you can make the ECM re-learn faster by disconnecting the positive battery cable from the battery post and holding it against the negative battery post or any ground point for a few moments. Then reconnect the positive cable to the positive battery post and drive as you normally would while the ECM relearns how to re-optimize engine parameters like fuel trim, timing & throttle position.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2015 | 02:43 PM
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I did disconnect the battery for a couple of hours but didn't touch the leads together. It does seem to have made a difference though. When I restarted it, I left it to idle until the temp gauge got to half way, then went for a gentle drive. Been out today also, 85 miles later, no lights and I swear the engine idles smoother than before and at slightly lower revs. Thanks for all the advice chaps.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2015 | 01:48 AM
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Sounding good!
 
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