Just purchased a 06 X model. I have belonged to other forums which have been helpful. I am sure there will be posts to come, once I start understanding the new car. This is probably a question that has many answers, but I will ask any way. Is there anything that I should address quickly on this model. I do hear a noise kind of like a growl/whiling sound at low speeds. That is probably the best description for the sound.

Thanks

 

Lee, if there is something you need to look at right off the bat, it would be the transfer case. With this being said, you need to do some research before you rip into this project. See, Jaguar put the fill opening up against the block of the engine and it can only be removed by dropping the transfer case from the car. With this being said, we have figured out ways to refill the transfer case through the drain plug. The whirring sound that you hear may be the transfer case. Otherwise, you may be looking at a bad carrier bearing on the rear driveshaft. Normally the carrier bearing is more of a vibration at say 40 mph that feels like it is coming from under the driver's seat.

Remember, the transfer case only takes 600 ml of 75W-140 full synthetic gear lube. If you don't get any out, do not fret. You would not be the first to have that happen to them. The transfer case seems to handle the lack of lube ok.

 

Thermo-thanks for the information. I am a novice mechanic/car owner. Not having looked into the sound as of yet, since I just purchased the car, my bet is on the transfer case. It is nice to know that a synthetic lube is in the transfer case. Driving it down the road at 0-75 I haven't felt a vibration. I will drive the car today to see if that may be the case.

I am printing the pdf manual now so that I am able to know more about the car.

thanks - Lee

 

Lee, the other check that I would tell you to try is doing a rapid (yet under control) lane change. You want the body of the car to lean slightly. You can accomplish the same thing by taking a curve in a highway and changing lanes towards the inside of the curve. Either way, what you are looking/listening for is the hum to be there when you turn one way, but not be there when you do the same maneuver the other direction. This would indicate that one of your hubs is starting to go and the side that you turn towards is the side with the bad nub.

The last thing you can pay attention to is whether the sound changes when you are making slow speed turns. Turning one way should make the sound lessen while the other way will make it worse. This would indicate a bad CV joint. But ,this is also normally associated with a growing in volume whir sound with the speed of the car and sometimes even go away completely when you back the car up.

 

Thanks again for the new info. I have never owned a all wheel drive, only 4 wheel drive PU's. Some what similar. Some parts are just what needs to be done as a car ages. I had rebuilt the engine in my 64 Vette twice. If and when I figure out the noise I will make a post. I am checking the transfer case first.

How and what is used to fill the transfer case from the drain hole??

 

Lee, you have 3 choices to refill the transfer case. You have the "tilt the car" method where you have to raise the driver's side (for you) of the car to raise the bottom of the car body to about 24 inches off of the ground (the car will be leaning pretty good). This will then allow you to add the fluid in and when it gets to the top of the drain hole, you have the correct amount in it.

Option 2 is a member here had a kit that you could purchase from him that had a spring check valve in it. You would insert a plug into the check valve and this would open the check valve. You could then pump in the fluid you needed to add and then when you were done, you simply unplugged and it locked the fluid into the transfer case.

Option 3 was something I came up with where you get yourself a brass radiator drain valve (it will have a small "9mm shell casing" looking piece on on end and a T handle. You will then need a 1/4" to 1/2" NPT adapter (preferably brass). You will Loc-tite the valve to the adapter with red loc-tite and then file all the flats off of the adapter (need to do this to give yourself room to thread in the adapter all the way). From there, you drain out the fluid, you screw in the valve and then using some tygon tubing that just fits into the "shell casing", you run the hose up through the engine back to near the throttle body. This will allow you to add fluid with the valve open and once you have put in the necessary amount, you close the valve and remove the tubing. When you need to drain, you simply open the valve. Some have said that on the newer cars, there is not a lot of room to do this method. This is why getting the valve and adapter as short as possible is key to making this work.

If you do some looking , there are a few show and tell picture posts on the various methods so you can get more detail on how to do it.

 

Thermo - thanks for the options on filling the transfer case. I like the first since it is a easy way to do, option 2 sounds good and option 3 would work also. I am familiar with the brass radiator drain valve. that was used in many cars over the years, now not so much. I will need to look at my options to lift and support the car on two wheels, sounds like I should be able to do that, 24 inches is a good tilt on the car. I do hope that if I fill the case, the sound goes away. No matter what it won't hurt to check to see if there is enough grease/oil in the transfer case.