Hello all...new member here, and hope to be for a long time.
I am about to purchase a 2004 3.0 X-Type w/sports package with 96,000 miles.
Anything I should be aware of at this mileage, and anything I should do right away to ensure peace of mind? I am new to the world of Jaguar, and need to learn a lot. Hopefully you all can help.
Also...are these cars hard to work on yourself? I am pretty mechanical, and have always done my own work on my cars...but they were all Jeeps...a whole different beast.
Thanks a lot for the help....I truly appreciate it.

 

Welcome to the board. If unfamiliar with the car I'd probably recommend paying your mechanic to give it a once over paying particular attention to the tranny/ transfer case. Once you get it look into replacing the transfer case fluid and tranny fluid immediately. Aside from that pretty much the same as anything else on the road. You're getting ready for the 100k service so you'll be doing the plugs right away to get your feet wet. Rear control arm bushing go and cause excessive neg camber around those miles so you're probably looking at 200 in part for that, good time to do sway bar links and bushes as well.

 

Brew, my first card that I learned on we're jeeps. Right now I actually have three Cherokees that I've gotten running and all I can tell you is that this car is the same as any other car, just the components are a little harder to get to. For instance, if you want to change spark plugs, you can't just change the plugs, you have to pull the intake manifold first. Granted, pulling the manifold isn't too hard, but its an extra added step. You'll find with the xtype that it's sometimes hard to do jobs because there are extra added steps. If you've worked on a rusty jeep though, it's sooooo much better because every bolt you pull on will actually come out. My recommendation is to get a good set of ramps so you can get under the car better. Once you're under it, it's just like any other fwd, except you got a rear drive shaft. Haha. But don't be scared to ask questions. If you get stuck, take a pic and throw it up on the forums and normally we do our best to solve it from just a picture.


Now, get right off your computer and go change your transfer case fluid before you toast it.

 

Brewcity, first off, welcome to the Forums. I think you will find this place very refreshing when you compare it to other boards. We try to keep things on target and very informative. But, we do ask a simple thing from you though. Please stop by the New Member Forum and introduce yourself. We are quirky this way in that we like to get to know one another and this also gives you a chance to get to learn who the movers and shakers are around here. You will find tons of very useful information when it comes to the car. So, sit back, grab a cup of Joe and enjoy.

As for your questions. Getting parts is not all that difficult if you know a few tricks. You can get more than you are thinking if you know what to ask for. For example, if you tell them that you have a 2004 Lincoln LS with the 3.0L motor, a lot of the parts are interchangeable between the Jag and the Lincoln. Kinda like parts of the suspension are interchangeable between the Volvo line and your Jag. Not everything, but it gives you a point to start from. We also have a few dealerships that you will find that can get you any part you are after and their prices are pretty decent along with their service being above par.

As for things to do to the car after you get it. This is my list that I am going to say. Probably overkill, but if you can work on the car, this will give you a chance to get to learn the car and figure out that it is actually a very easy vehicle to work on. So, here is the list of what I would say to look at:

-oil change (unless the place you are buying it from can tell you when the oil was last changed)
-replace IMT o-rings (Intake Manifold Tuning = IMT) - these o-rings are known for leaking and you can pick them up for around $3 an o-ring and it will get rid of one of the common problems with the car
-inspect the vacuum line running between the top of the intake and the brake booster. Specifically look at the check valve (bulb in the center of the line) in the center. If it looks like it has a crack in it or the plastic is starting to fail, buy a new one
-remove the cover off the top of the engine and inspect the vacuum line running between the PCV valve (drivers side, front valve cover) and the intake. You should see a ribbed hose there. If you see a smooth hose, I would recommend replacing the hose with the updated hose to prevent any future vacuum leak issues.
-replace the spark plugs. They are due to be changed at 100K miles and unless you can get positive word that they were just changed, they will be due. On a related note, do not worry about trying to get the fancy "multiple spark" spark plugs like the Bosch +4's or the like. They are only good at lightening your wallet from our experience. A good double platinum plug is what you need for this car.
-check the air filter and replace if needed
-check/replace the cabin filter. This is located under the cowl on the passenger side. A new filter is like $20 at your local Advance/Napa/Autozone.
-replace the transfer case fluid (550 ml of 75W-140 full synthetic gear lube). Now, before you just pull the plug and get yourself in a world of hurt, do some looking about this. The fill plug for the transfer case is in a spot that you can not access unless you drop the transfer case from the car. But, with that being said, we have a few options of how to get the fluid back in there. Any questions, just ask. Do not be surprised if you pull the plug and no fluid comes out. A majority of us have had that happen to us. doesn't seem to affect the transfer case from what we can tell.
-rear end lube: Inspect and change if you think it is needed. To remove, you will need to vacuum drag the fluid out. Then refill with 75W-140 full synthetic gear lube (about 1.5 quarts).
-inspection of the tires. Pay specific attention to the rear tires and if they lean in at the top. If they do, an alignment is in your future. You may find that the alignment shop will tell you that they can not fix the tires leaning in at the top. If this is the case, let us know as we have a fix for that (costs about $120 and 2 hours of your time).
-brake inspection: pay specific attention to the e-brake levers on the rear calipers. If you are going to have an issue, it will be with these levers. They tend to freeze up and what you will find is suddenly your mileage will bottom out. You are dragging a caliper. We have a fix for that too.

One final word. If you are looking to modify this car, you are going to find that it is going to be very difficult unless you know how to cross-reference parts as the aftermarket world has very little for our cars. Along these same lines is that you can make the motor handle tons of power with very little work. BUT!!!!!! The transfer case is the weak link and if you like to zip light to light (even in stock trim), you are going to go through a lot of transfer cases. This is more of a touring car than a sports car. Will it get up and go. Of course. But, too many times and the transfer case will give up. So, be aware.

If you have more questions, just ask. As you see, we lay things out there for you to consider and call a spade a spade.

 

Thank you ALL...especially Thermo!! Extremely informative, and it takes a lot of pressure off of my mind! I am glad I will be able to work on this car and save some money rather than take it to a dealership for service.
I appreciate all your advice and help with this...it is truly appreciated.
What about the transmissions...from what I have read...they can be an issue. Should I be worried?
Also...how long can I expect this car to run (mileage wise ) with being diligent on the upkeep and maintenance?
Can I expect 150,000+ miles without any major issues (being a cost of right around $1000)?
I know a lot has to do with the previous owners upkeep...but if I do everything you guys tell me to do as stated above...can I enjoy it for over 150,000?
Thanks again! You guys are truly awesome! I'm going to love it here!

 

Brewcity, if the car has been maintained properly over its life, you can expect to easily get 250,000 miles out of the car. It is not uncommon for newer cars to roll over 300,000 miles with no major issues.

 

Thanks a lot...I do appreciate your help and insight.
That's great to know. I just was not sure how long these Jaguars would last...as I am a total newbie as far as these are concerned.

 

Go for it. I have a 2005 that I have owned for almost 5 years now and it's been great and I can personally attest to it being up to the challenge of Milwaukee winters. Good luck. Hope the deal works out for you.

 

Thanks for the reply..and letting me know about the dreaded Milwaukee winters.
I really appreciate it.