Hello - I have been toying around with my 2003 x-type 3.0 AWD. I am getting what I assume is 'limp mode' at 3000 RPM, the car starts to sputter. One common theme is cruise not available, overheating on the gauge but then going away on restart, then the sputtering. I have read a lot of the forums and based on the replies (thanks Thermo) I did the following. (7 codes at prior)
- Changed the thermostat - No overheating read now but still sputtering
- Changed the Air Filter - (Still sputtering)
- Changed the IMT - O'Rings (Still sputtering)(** Breather hose is the new ribbed one with no damage)
- Changed the fuel filter - That took away the sputtering for a short drive but it came back the next day. Today(cleared the codes) I added injector cleaner and filled empty tank with premium fuel (regular added before). I drove the car about 20 miles and it only sputtered once with the cruise not available message. OBD'd on return and had a P0301 and P1316. I was going to do the following next. 1.) clean the MAF Sensor(DIY), if not 2.) install o2 sensors(DIY), if not 3.) change spark plugs and check coils (will take to repair shop). As a side note, my daughter ran the tank very close to empty and we had to fill it from a gas can prior to this happening.
Are these next steps ok? Thanks in advance!!!

 

jlkarch1, based on the codes that you are currently getting, I am betting that you will find that there will be a little bit of oil in the #1 cylinder plug well and that is causing the plug to spark to the block vice inside the cylinder, leading to your problem. Do a plug change, but don't be surprised if you find a little bit of oil in a few of the plug wells.

 

Thanks again Thermo. After calling around for some pricing, I think I am going to take a crack and changing the plugs myself. Believe it or not the Jaguar service manager told me that it is not that bad and I should go for it! This was after I told him it was a project (midlife crisis ) car. With that said, while I am at it I will also replace all coils, back 02 sensors, knock sensor, upper and lower intake gaskets, valve cover gaskets and spark plug boss seals (not really sure what that is). I ordered all but the last two which I will go to the dealer for. Anything else to replace while I am in there? Throttle body gasket?

Best regards!

 

Doing the plugs isn't that bad. Just take your time and I recommend putting something over the intake so you don't drop something down the holes (just make sure to remove the item you put in the holes to prevent dropping something in as this will make the car run like hell as one of the members just found out). The big thing is you will need a 10mm wrench to get at the 2 bolts on the back side of the intake. There isn't a lot of room to access them, but once you get them out, the rest is pretty straight forward.

As for the throttle body gasket, don't mess with that joint. You can remove the intake by simply undoing the bolts and leaving the coolant lines connected to the throttle body. From there, you can rotate the intake out of the way. So, unless you think that gasket is the source of your problems, I would leave it be. Granted, this may be a good time to get your hands on some throttle body cleaner and spray it down really good.

 

Hi Jim,

I'm in a fairly similar situation as well and wondering if you were able to resolve it?

My X-Type 2002 (115k miles) bucks if I get it up to 3000 rpm (and I get the Cruise Not Available), at least until the car has gotten to full operating temperature. This even happens on warm days. I get the engine misfire codes for both banks. Once it warms up, it's fine. And if I accelerate slower than I'd like and avoid hitting 3000 rpm, I'm fine.

Now in my case, I'm also getting fuel lean warnings on both banks according to to the OBDII, basically maxing out at +25% over. Not sure if you were getting anything along these lines or not (since you mentioned you were previously getting more codes)

But it sounds like we are on the same page for the most part:

*Already Done*

1. Replaced Air Filter (it desperately needed it anyway)
2. Replaced the good ol' totally faulty PCV intake (which was very much needed, and cured my rough idling/stalling problem)

Today, I'm continuing the process:

3. Clean the MAF
4. Adding some fuel injector cleaner
5. Replacing the fuel filter (which it's definitely long overdue for)

Next up if I'm still getting the high LTFT and/or the issue at 3000 rpm

6. Replace IMT O-Rings
7. Check for vacuum leaks (might take it in to get smoke tested)

And if still no joy:

8. Replace MAF

And hopefully I won't have to go here:

9. Replace spark plugs, injector coils, and intake gaskets
10. Clean Fuel Injectors
11. Replace O2 Sensors

Now in my case, I had the Brake Booster replaced a few years ago at the dealership, otherwise that'd definitely be toward the end of the list as well.

I would say, you definitely would want to get smoke tested to check for any vacuum hose leaks prior to having your spark plugs and injector coils tested, and definitely before replacing the O2 sensors.

And if you're going to get your spark plugs and injector coils tested at a shop, cost-wise I wonder if you're just better off getting them replaced and the intake gaskets changed since pretty much it's very laborious to get back there anyway. FYI: the price quotes I received were: $1600 at the dealership, and about $1000 at a regular shop. If I end up having to do this, I'll probably just do it myself (YOLO!)

 

With that many miles on it and the symptoms your describing, I'd bet that both your upper and lower intake gaskets are shot and causing the engine to suck in air.

It only takes 3-4 hours total to do the intake gaskets, spark plugs and valve cover gaskets, the job is actually pretty straightforward and parts should only run around $130.

I wouldn't worry about the MAF, coil packs or fuel injectors until you know everything else isn't the problem.

 

brainy, do not fret about doing the plugs and intake seals. If you have any mechanical ability, you can do this without any issue. All you need is some basic hand tools and a little bit of knowledge. One thing I will point out is that if you read the shop manual, it will say that you need to drain the coolant and disconnect the lines for the throttle body. You do NOT!!!! need to do this. You can simply rotate the intake out of the way and save yourself a lot of time. You will become very good friends with a 10mm socket and a 10mm wrench. Also of note, there are 2 (maybe 3) bolts on the back side of the intake (the side facing the firewall) that are holding a wire loom that you need to remove. If you can remove those, then those are the hardest bolts you will be dealing with (hint, they are not that bad). You also do not need to remove the fuel injectors from the lower intake piece. Undo the few bolts holding the piece down and lift it up as a complete unit.

If you need more help, give a hollar. Been down this road myself.

 

Thanks for the encouragement all!

Yes, I know I really need to do it, haha, been trying to work up the courage via baby steps

Definitely planning to do it, and definitely not going to take it to the shop. Would rather save the money if something more difficult needs to be done. I'll let y'all know how it goes! If certainly researched up the wazoo and at this point any more research is probably just procrastination!

 

Hi all - Well, I took a stab at this thing over the weekend. Brainy, to put in in perspective, I changed my oil about 25 years ago and that was pretty much the last time I touched anything close to the engine (less my earlier work here). I am not mechanical at all. This was a bit frustrating but certainly doable. I had three things at the end that I know of. I changed all the plugs, all the coils and upper and lower intake gaskets. I think the plugs were originals (88k miles)and the intake area I am sure was never taken apart after purchase. I bought valve gaskets and plug boss gaskets ($160 from dealer) as well. But once in there and having a bit of trouble with the intake area I decided to not go any deeper. There was really no trouble, just was frustrating and tedious. Patience is not a friend of mine! So I hope they take the gaskets back! Also, I bought the back bank of downstream and upstream 02 sensors but I did not take that on as well... I think it would be easier to come in from underneath on those. So I think everything is back in place. Three things happened on the way back. 1. Apparently while lifting off the top part, you should certainly disconnect the TPS plug. I ripped the wires right out of the plug. Now I have to figure out how to get them back in. I think it is 1. Black, 2. Yellow, 3. Purple 4. Orange. I also dropped one of the bolts and I need to find it from the manifold (just attaches to a bracket) and of course the first large bolt I put in on the manifold putting it back together I snapped it while tightening. It is threaded and holding though. So I will say this, after getting the car back together to a point where I could start it, I said, what the heck. Cranked it over and it sounded very nice... no chopiness at all anymore and idled nice. Clearly, not having the TPS hooked up made it a bit weird as i could not rev it up. Overall, I am glad I did it, once I have this plug wire stuff sorted out and fixed I am dying to know if the problem is solved. I will keep you posted. Thermo is a trusted wealth of know how (thanks Again) I also had a few vodka and tonics afterwards! Combined it took me about 4 or 5 hours.

 

jlkarch1, let me look at my drawings and I will give you the color codes of how the wires should be. Granted, if you do some looking around here, I think this information has been posted in the past as others have done the same thing you did.

 

Thanks Chris! Well, I could not let that tps connector plug get to me. I could not find much on it, so I improvised. I pulled the 4 rubber plug holders from the back of the plug, then the anti backout yellow plastic from the front. I made sure it was clear so the wires did not break, it looks like they simply pulled through. I slipped the rubber holders around the wire bodies, twisted the ends and slipped them back in the order I mentioned above. Put everything back together and started it up. I am happy to mention it is like a new car. I took it out and it ran great. No misfires, very smooth. Now I am going to have to go back and fix that plug properly. I am sure there is some type of crimping or epoxy to hold them in place? Maybe I need to source a new connector plug?

One new thing I did notice, when I got off the gas/power, the lights seemed to dim. Maybe the wiring job I did is affecting something since they are just stuck in there. I bought a brand new top of the line battery a few weeks ago. I will research around for that.... This is also the first time I drove at night with it in a long time. So maybe it was there before or maybe I got a bad battery.

Also, a few other things to note from my update, I bought the knock sensor and forgot all about it in the heat of battle so it is still in the bag!
Brainy, I am pretty sure that the plugs and coil solved my issue as Chris suggested from the misfire in cylinder 1. I would go ahead and change them out. Like I said, I need to go back and do the plug properly, but it was unreal to see the difference tonight after getting it back together. As far as the codes go I had a bunch of them to start and all cleared up. I want to say the fuel codes went away after I changed the air filter and fuel filter.

 

jlkarch1, looking at the diagrams, the wiring color order is blue/green, then yellow, then purple, then finally orange/yellow.

As for the wiring, if you look inside the plug, you should see what looks like a little sliver of metal missing. If you use a jeweler's screw driver, you can slide it along the outside of the pin and push that metal sliver back into the pin. You should then be able to slide the pin out the backside of the plug. From there, you can solder the wires on to the pins and reinstall them into the plug. If you need me to go into more detail, I will do that.

 

Thermo, Thanks! I have to tackle this one but took a bit of a break for now. This tooling around with cars can get obsessive! I will keep you posted.