Hi all and thank you for reading. I have a 2003 X-type diesel which refuses to start. The battery is fully charge. I am also able to energise the starter solenoid and crank the engine but it will not fire. The vehicle has manual transmission and the red light by the gear stick is flashing code 24. The inertia switch has not been activated. Can anyone point me in the right direction. Thank you in anticipation.

Tony.

 

Carworld, first off, welcome to the forums. I Think you will like it here. Lots of good information to share and be had. But we do ask a simple thing from you. Please stop by the New Member Section and introduce yourself. We pride ourselves in being a different car group and we like to get to know one another. Besides, this will also give you a chance to get to meet the movers and shakers of the group.

As for your problem, since you are only getting a code on the security light, that would tell me that you are having an issue with your key, not the car itself. I would say to try a second key and see what you have at that point. It may be that the key has been damaged and now is not transmitting the correct signal. Keep in mind that you need both a good key cut to activate the starter and a good digital code to activate the ECM to supply fuel to the motor. From the sounds of things, you have a good cut on the key as the motor is turning over (ie, rotating), but you are not getting fuel admitted to the engine. After trying the other key, lets see what you have at that point.

 

Hi and thanks for the reply. I probably did not clarify properly. I cannot crank the engine via the key. I can do so by energising the starter motor solenoid directly. I have spoken to a jaguar dealer local to me, who suggests I have a security problem which could be at the instrument cluster. I have my own diagnostic equipment. However this does not cover programming for this vehicle.

 

I still say to first start with trying a second key if you have one. If the key got damaged (bumped in your pocket, subjected to water, etc), it may be just the key.

Another check that you can try. What I want you to do is to sit in the driver's seat, press and hold the button on the end of the turn signal stalk (Trip button). While depressing the button, turn the ignition key to the RUN (II) position and keep depressing the button till you see the instrument cluster say "Engineering Test Mode". Now, release the switch (must do so within 3 seconds of seeing the message else it will take itself out of this programming mode). Now, depress the TRIP button until you see the instrument cluster say PATS XX where XX is going to be a 1 or 2 digit number (will be about 50 depresses). What number is it showing? To exit out of this mode, you can either press and hold the TRIP button for 3+ seconds or you can simply turn the car back off. If you happen to go past the desired point, you will have to repeatedly press the TRIP button until you scroll all the way around to beginning again.

The following is a list of what the numbers mean:
0 - no diagnostic byte
1 - bad diagnostic byte
2 - start byte received
3 - key read complete
4 - key is programmed to the vehicle
5 - bad read address
6 - signature matches

Also, you say that you have some diagnostic equipment. What codes/information can you get. The more info that I can get, the easier it will be for me to figure out what is going on.

 

Hi again. I have followed your instructions. I have posted a photo of the result. Not sure if this is correct but Pats indicates 5C. The other pics show my diagnostic tool results. The first one shows all fault codes read. The second is the remainder after clearing. The tool used is a Launch X431.

Thanks for your assistance.

Tony.

 

Carworld, just to ask a silly question, but have you had any work done to the car recently (ie, just before this all start happening)? From the sounds of things, you have a can bus that is bad and it is not sending the keyfob signature to the ECU to allow it to start the car. As to where the fault lies, this is where a professional shop is going to be able to tell you more about that than I can. From the sounds of things, the CAN bus between the instrument cluster and the ECU is failed and it is not transmitting the signals it needs to so the car may start. But, without more advance computers to look at things, this is about as far as I can take it.

 

Hi
First let me say I am very grateful for the help you have given me so far. I asked for help on another site which I wont name. However the attitude there was if you were not a member of the current gang you would receive sarcastic remarks and be ridiculed instead of receiving assistance which is the whole purpose of the site. Even though I may require further technical assistance to resolve my issue, at least now I am proceeding in the right direction. I am glad I joined this site.

I originally bought the car with rear damage. The rear bumper was changed and painted. When I collected the car it had a flat battery. It was jumped started from a portable power pack. Once running it was loaded on a recovery truck for transportation. Back at the workshop the car was stored for a couple of weeks before repairs commenced on the rear damage. My assistant connected a fast charger to the car to start it. It did not start first time. after a few attempts it did. The "well" where the spare wheel is stored was damaged this required the use of a body dozer. When the work was complete the car refused to start. I assumed the bodywork hammering may have activated the inertia switch. this was checked but was not the case. I connected the diagnostic tool and the results were as shown. This rear damage was the only repair carried out to this vehicle. The only conclusion I can come to is that when the fast charger was connected to the battery, ripples in the dc supply may have corrupted the CAN bus communication.

Tony

 

Carworld, it is possible that what you are saying is true. The DC ripple can raise hell. But, without having a higher end computer to look at what is flowing in and out of various computers, I think you will find it hard to figure out what computer is truely at the source of your problem.

NOw, as a side note, you mentioned that you had some body work done to the car. During this process, was any welding done? It is possible that the high currents from welding induced enough voltage that it damaged a computer. This is where unplugging the computers from the vehicle is needed to be done to prevent a complete current loop inside the computer

I wish you luck in trying to find this problem.

 

Hi
no welding was carried out....just hammering. Thanks once again. I will let you know how I get on.

Tony

 

Thermo,
Even though he did not have any welding done, that was a great bit of information. I work on yachts, electrical and electronics. It is IMPERATIVE to unplug all your ECM's etc when welding is being done. The noise introduced through the ground just loves semiconductors.... Similar to lightning strikes. Hopefully Tony finds his issue soon! Welcome Tony. Thermo is like the Wikipedia of Jags!
Sparky

 

Hi once again. Even though my diagnostic machine does not have the capabilities to resolve this issue, I have seen online where JLR IDS (mongoose) software and hardware are available for around the same cost as what the dealer will charge me. Do you think this is a viable route to go down and purchase these? I intend to keep the car and possibly at a later date upgrade to a later model. @ Sparkchaser The help I received was very valuable.

 

Spark, I know marine electrical all too well. I am a certified Marine Electrician and spent 20 years working on the electronics for an nuclear powered submarine. Now I have the easy life is doing the electronics for a nuclear power plant and repairing their security system.

Carworld, if you are willing to take the chance, then I would say to get the software and see what you can find. Worst case, you hang on to the software and help other fellow members in your area. I do that with one of the tools I have for my truck. I rent it to the members for free, they just have to pay for shipping. That tool is better travelled than most people.