rear rotors and brake pads - RESOLVED
hello i need to replace my rear rotors and brakes but want to make sure i will do it correctly if anyone has done this please give me your advise or if anyone has a service manual that i can download that would be cool to. my car is 2008 x-type 3.0l engine 4 dr.
Last edited by GGG; Dec 3, 2012 at 04:44 AM. Reason: Add 'RESOLVED' to thread title
Just did it this past weekend. The only tricky part is getting the rotor back in. Go to your local auto parts store and buy the little tool. Clamp it on with a c clamp. Use a s tee driver yo archer them in. Both turm towards the front . So left is counter clockwise and right is clockwise.
This was the first time I ever did rotors and I really can't think of anything that wasn't easy. Should take you no more than 30 minutes a side.
This was the first time I ever did rotors and I really can't think of anything that wasn't easy. Should take you no more than 30 minutes a side.
Peter, the brakes are easy to do on this car. Like was mentioned, turn the pistons on the calipers towards the front of the car. This will allow them to move into the caliper so you can fit the new pads. You may find it easier to crack the vent port when pushing the pistons back into place. The key thing is that if you turn them the wrong way, the piston will move out, turn it the correct way, the piston will remain as far out as it was if you are not pushing or will move in if you are pushing. With the vent port shut, it takes a lot more pushing to get the piston to move inwards.
The other thing that I will tell you to watch for is a sticking e-brake lever. You will see where the cable attaches to the caliper. That lever seems to stick for me. If you have this issue, let me know. The fix is pretty easy.
The other thing that I will tell you to watch for is a sticking e-brake lever. You will see where the cable attaches to the caliper. That lever seems to stick for me. If you have this issue, let me know. The fix is pretty easy.
Remember to open air bleed valve when pushing the pistons back. Itīs long a way back to brake fluid reservoir and it goes through the abs unit which isnīt that good. If you donīt wanīt to remove excess brake fluid through bleed valve then remember to check brake fluid level constantly so that it doesnīt overflow. Not that good stuff to have all over your engine.
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Here's a thread I started on the subject a few years ago. Lots of good tips from members and I posted a few pics from my job.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ake-job-49730/
Don't forget to change the brake fluid if it's been a couple years. Good luck.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ake-job-49730/
Don't forget to change the brake fluid if it's been a couple years. Good luck.
Peter, if you look near where the e-brake attaches to the caliper, you should see a small nipple sticking out of the caliper (may have a rubber boot over it). That is the bleed valve. Open it about a turn and then push the piston back in.
Peter,
Thanks for coming back to report success with the rotor and brake change.
I've added 'RESOLVED' to your thread title to help others searching for the same information in future.
Graham
Thanks for coming back to report success with the rotor and brake change.
I've added 'RESOLVED' to your thread title to help others searching for the same information in future.
Graham
Remember to open air bleed valve when pushing the pistons back. Itīs long a way back to brake fluid reservoir and it goes through the abs unit which isnīt that good. If you donīt wanīt to remove excess brake fluid through bleed valve then remember to check brake fluid level constantly so that it doesnīt overflow. Not that good stuff to have all over your engine.
The reservoir on the master cylinder is sized to provide enough fluid for the entire system without overflowing when the pistons are retracted when new pads are fitted. Removing fluid from the master should not be required unless someone has previously over filled it.
Just to expand upon what Mikey is talking about. Following a complete 4 wheel pad replacement, you can look at the level in the brake fluid reservoir and you should fill it to the "MAX" line. At this point, if you never add any more fluid, you will be able to push the pistons in and out and not have to worry about over flowing the reservoir. You can do this same thing if you do a look at the pads that you didn't replace the pads on and then adjust the level accordingly (ie, if the pads are essentially new, then go ahead and fill to the full line, if the pads are half warn, then fill to just below the MAX line by say 1/8"/3mm).
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