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san diego to Rhode island. suspension and limp mode

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Old 03-09-2013, 12:37 PM
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Default san diego to Rhode island. suspension and limp mode

With my trunk full, rear seats full, bike rack, one passenger, my xtype drives like brand new. What affect does weight have? Which parts?

W/o the weight it gets sideways on bumps, etc. Weight fixed that. Interesting. I jacked it up, no loose control arms, wheels are tight (no leans).
What could I replace to have a smooth ride with empty car?

Just outside Albuquerque my xtype enters limp mode. Won't go over 3k rpm. Engine light. Limp to O'Reilly error codes P0171 too lean dirty mass air flow meter, map. Bank 1
P0174* bank 2. Replaced air filter/special spray cleaned sensor. limp mode disengaged and engine light off.

89468 miles 2004 xtype. Will they make it?

We're in Missouri now, stopping with Family in Chicago.
 
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Old 03-09-2013, 11:16 PM
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What part of Chicago?

Change out the MAF sensor. Get the amperage checked on the battery. If these are good, then the upper and lower intake gaskets need to be replaced. Money is on the MAF, since both banks are throwing a code at the same time.

Looseness - Rear lower control arm bushing are shot. Do you hear a cluck in the rear when going over bumps, potholes, etc.. when the car has no weight in it?
 
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Old 03-10-2013, 03:15 AM
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We made it to Lincolnwood. Check engine light + limp mode came on 100 miles outside Chicago. 2750rpm in 5th gear at 70mph.

Without weight the car is all over the place when driving over bumps.
 
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Old 03-10-2013, 06:01 AM
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Force, welcome to the Forums. I think you will find a lot of useful information here. But, please stop by the "New Member" section and introduce yourself. I think you will find a lot of very friendly people here and as a result, we like to get to know one another. This will also give you a chance to meet the movers and shakers around here.

As for your suspension problem, it is very possible that you have a shock that is binding up and because of the added weight, it is now able to move. The other possibility is that you had the heavy duty shocks installed and they are stiff enough that they are not allowing the wheels to move like they should.

if you had something loose in the suspension of the car, you should hear a thump when you hit a bump. The other check that I find useful is to take a cloverleaf turn at about 25 mph (decent speed, but don't need to be chirping the tires) and then get on and off the gas a little bit. Does the rear end feel like it is wanting to step out on you? If yes, then your lower, forward arms in the rear need to be changed out.

As for the restricted performance, that can be caused by a lot of things. Get the codes read again and see what they say. Then we can take it from there. But, like was mentioned, it can be something as silly as the battery is getting old and it is raising hell wit the electrical system.
 
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Old 03-13-2013, 01:12 PM
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+1 on the rear lower arms. My car behaved exactly as you described. I'll bet you have negative camber on the rear as well? (Top of tires tilted in) The car had been handling strangely on sweeping turns - as Thermo stated "feels like rear wants to step out a bit". After a road trip that included some rather "spirited" time in the mountain roads of N. Carolina and Tennessee, the freeway ride home was infinitely worse - must have really beat the last gasps of life from those arms. Had them replaced along with 4-wheel alignment and life is good once again!
 
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Old 03-13-2013, 01:22 PM
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I bet the bushings on the rear control arms have failed. That was a common problem with our cars that was once pretty expensive to fix. It's pretty cheap now but can't remember if it was because the bushings are now serviceable, but weren't in the past, or if the price of the arms themselves is now reasonable.
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Old 03-15-2013, 10:05 PM
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The check engine light came back on. I heard a hissing coming from the intake manifold tuning valve. I bought an oring part # c2s40669005, c2s38334 is old part #. After replacing the intake manifold tuning oring, I cleared the codes and they haven't come back on.

Stopped in Buffalo now.
 
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Old 06-23-2014, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeeves12
What part of Chicago?

Change out the MAF sensor. Get the amperage checked on the battery. If these are good, then the upper and lower intake gaskets need to be replaced. Money is on the MAF, since both banks are throwing a code at the same time.

Looseness - Rear lower control arm bushing are shot. Do you hear a cluck in the rear when going over bumps, potholes, etc.. when the car has no weight in it?
My post:
With my trunk full, rear seats full, bike rack, one passenger, my xtype drives like brand new. What affect does weight have? Which parts?
W/o the weight it gets sideways on bumps, etc. Weight fixed that. Interesting. I jacked it up, no loose control arms, wheels are tight (no leans).
What could I replace to have a smooth ride with empty car?

Your post:
What part of Chicago?

Change out the MAF sensor. Get the amperage checked on the battery. If these are good, then the upper and lower intake gaskets need to be replaced. Money is on the MAF, since both banks are throwing a code at the same time.

Looseness - Rear lower control arm bushing are shot. Do you hear a cluck in the rear when going over bumps, potholes, etc.. when the car has no weight in it?

My question now:
Is this the correct replacement part? If so, do I need 2?

Rear Stabilizer Sway Bar Frame Bushing Left Right LH RH LR RR for 02 08 Jaguar | eBay

Thank you for your time,

Very Respectfully,

Alex
 
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Old 06-23-2014, 05:00 PM
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Alex, I know this might sound strange, but have your replaced the springs in the rear of the car? What you are describing sounds like something a lot of the heavy duty trucks experience all the time when running empty. If the rear suspension is too stiff, it will cause the rear tires to bounce on uneven surfaces and it will make the back end feel like it is going every which way but straight. Once you add the weight, the spring now has enough on it that it will keep the tire in contact with the road and remove that loose feeling. This could also be caused by a frozen shock (ie, the shock is not letting the tire move like it should and therefore goes not move up and down like it should. With the weight, you are essentially forcing the shock to move.

Alex, as for the part in question, if you are looking to replace the mounts for your sway bar, then you need 2 of those. If you are looking at anything with the control arms, then those are not the correct parts at all. Pretty much, if you think your control arms are bad, then you will end up getting complete control arms. The jaguar parts have form fitted bushings in them (ie, molded into the arms as part of the manufacturing process). so, removing them is not a normal solution. Can you with some research and whatnot. Of course. But, now you are needing to rip out the rubber bushing, measure the inside diameter of the arm, the width and then finding a bushing that will fit on the suspension bolt. This can take a lot of time and not save you a lot of money in the end.
 
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Old 06-24-2014, 05:47 AM
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these are the parts you should check and or replace
04 11 Mazda 3 06 11 Mazda 5 Adjustable Rear Upper Control Arm Camber Kit Black | eBay

and

Jaguar x Type Rear Upper Control Arm Bushing Stabilizer Sway Bar Link Kit 4 | eBay

very easy to do just please use jack stands and be safe.
you will need an 18mm and 15mm socket and torque wrench and a 6 inch extension bar.
Shocks typically last 50-60K so I would say they may be due for replacement do you see any oil staining on the shaft of the shock???
 

Last edited by Paulc732; 06-24-2014 at 05:56 AM.
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Old 06-24-2014, 04:38 PM
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I install piece of old radiator hose to compensate worn out bushings.
 

Last edited by car5car; 06-24-2014 at 04:44 PM.
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