Silver: Personally, I'd get an electrical connector from Dr dome. The connector in the link you sent is $36 with S&H. Dr dome's prices are very reasonable, and he'll send it with enough wire to pigtail it to your harness, just like the one in your link. But it's up to you. I'm not Dr dome's marking department, just a guy who purchased a few used parts from him and was very pleased with his price, quick shipment and responses to my questions. Again, it's total up to you.

If I understand correctly, the slow idle and stalling is a new problem that began after you replaced the brake vacuum line & check valve and 2 IMT O-rings. If this is correct, I'd look for a possible vacuum leak or possibly an electrical connector or wire that had been damaged or not re-connected when the vacuum line and O-rings were replaced.

The damaged wires and connector to your coolant thermostat, those in your picture, could cause your dashboard temperature gauge and engine cooling fans not to work properly, but I doubt this would cause the engine to idle at 250 rpm until it stalls.

A smoke test is a good way to check for a vacuum leak. Any good mechanic can do it for you for a few $'s, or google "scotty kilmer smoke test" for a DIY video.

Other's in this forum may have helpful ideas to add.

 

I will try the smoke test. I have codes after clearing all of them out and driving it a bit today.
Codes P0430 (Powertrain Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 2), P0105 (Powertrain Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit) and P0171 (Powertrain System too Lean Bank 1).

 

Hi. i have quik question, 2003 jaguar xtyp 2.5. im try Replacement Brake Booster Vacuum Hose Check Valve Tube. Booster side its easy, but how is comeout, take out intake side ??? Thanks...

 

Hi. i have quik question, 2003 jaguar xtyp 2.5. im try Replacement Brake Booster Vacuum Hose Check Valve Tube. Booster side its easy, but how is comeout, take out intake side ??? Thanks...

 

There is a little plastic piece that you have to lift up and then it slips out if I remember correctly.

 

the pipe at manifold end is engaged through pneumatic style quick release connector.
You push in against the outside of the connector and pull the tube out.

 

Hello, I have a smoke test done on last week, and pictures show multiple leaks. So my mechanic will change gaskets (o-rings, lower and upper intake manifold gaskets), and there is also a leak at the brake booster vacuum connector, and at the evap line connector (blue arrows below).

The mechanic who has done diagnostic (not my mechanic) said I have to replace both lines.

My questions are:
should I replace both the complete lines, even if we can see the smoke coming from the connector only?
If so, I was able to find the brake booster vacuum line on the internet, but for the evap line, I really do not know where to find the part number. Could someone help me?
If not, what would you recommend to fix these leaks?

Thank you in advance.

 

I think the purge valve (front) vacuum line is this one = SKU
C2S11747

BUT, this is very rarely the source of a vacuum leak it is nearly always one of the "big 3" which includes the brake booster vacuum line (from brake booster to top of manifold).

 

Thank you Dell!

Below are pictures taken by the mechanic during smoke test. He then has recommended to change the intake manifold seal kit (upper), with actuators seals (No idea of what actuators nor actuators seals are), brake booster line, and purge jumper line (I assume it is the evap line I was mentioning).

I then went to my mechanic, he told me to find all the parts and will take care of the labor (adding to change upper and lower gaskets).

Sorry I did not post these pictures below earlier, I did not know how to extract them from the report.





Not sure why he shot this last photo