So I broke my car.

I caught a mis-fire cylinder one. Changed the plug. Still misfired. Coil. Misfire. Injector. Misfire. So I finally just replaced all the plugs, coils and injectors. Misfire went away, but where I messed up was the last time I was working on it, I forgot to unplug the TPS connector and when I raise the intake up to the side, the wires yanked right out of the connector. Couldn't get the crimps out, so I ordered a new end piece and it came with crimps. Found the wiring diagram, hooked everything up nice and neat and snug. But now it's throwing p122 and 222 codes about the voltage being too low, it's stuck in limp mode, and it won't rev below 2k. Ever.

I thought maybe I just didn't wire it up right so I just yanked them back out, went to the junkyard and snipped the harness as far down as I could. So spliced the wires, hooked it up, and it's still doing what it's doing. So then I figured maybe I somehow shorted out or something to the TPS, so I'm now on my THIRD tps, a denso and 2 who knows who made them in China type, and the original.

So, the problem is, I can't get the rev down to 600 or whatever it's supposed to be at. My meter says it's getting 5volts or whatever, actually it's like 5.10, it jumps around Alot but always goes to 5.10. I've turned the TPS all the way up and it revs to like 5 or 6k, I turn it all the way down it stays at 2k, and anywhere in the middle is either 2k or higher.

My question is, AM I EVEN PUTTING THE TPS ON RIGHT? Most vids I've watched about tps's, if they don't just say "put it back on" they say line up the throttle body nipple thing into the slot of the tps. Well there is no slot I can see to put it in, the nipple either fits in front or back of the tps nipple. So when I put it where when you turn the tps to open the TB, the TB is slightly open. Is it supposed to be like that? Isn't that what's causing it to start off reving all high because the TB is already open a bit? And no matter how I turn the tps the TB won't close all the way.

In any event, I HATE ELECTRICAL STUFF. I don't know what else to do. I'm so close to getting her running again it's driving me crazy. I'm also throwing some low fuel pressure something code, but the car been sitting for a min, and it barely has any gas, and the battery isn't fully charged, and I have a new fuel filter I haven't put on yet. I'm sure it's one of those things, if not I'll have my injectors flushed and such. I'll worry about that later, unless someone says I need a full 13 volts for the tps to work right or something. I'm at a loss though, I have no clue what to do next. Someone pleeeeeeease help.

Thumbs up.

-Mike-

 

Candidly, Idk if it is your problem, but Jags are notoriously finicky about full electrical charge. Even a well running car will one day start throwing codes, lights etc. because the battery went weak. Mine went **** up with no warning at all, no slow starts, no nothing and just puked a hairball. Codes and lights for fun. New battery, back to normal.

 

Found this saga, lol. Pay attention to posts #20 & #24 for voltages while setting tps by rotation.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-sensor-86984/

Post #2=
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-ideas-194025/

 

I'll chime in bc I tried very hard to adjust my own TPS and could not get it done, I ended up buying a new TB assembly. Here's what I found just about impossible, getting these 2 voltage readings to be in spec at the same time, then lock down the TPS. I had 2 volt meters connected, one to the pink wire, and, one to the yellow wire (wire insulation removed and using tiny grabber probes on the volt meters). Connected to ground @ the battery.

Even with a new TPS I could find no rotational position that would have both numbers in spec at the same time. Some claim to have done it, I guess I just wasn't holding my mouth right.

orange / yellow wire: 5 V reference input from the ECM
black / green wire: ground
pink wire: 0.74 V at idle, 3.97 V at full throttle
yellow wire: 1.65 V at idle, 4.20 V at full throttle

Dwclapp resonse: As Thermo notes earlier in this thread, sometimes when you suspect a bad TPS, the real issue is worn brushes in the servomotor controlling the throttle plate. Both can cause erratic air / fuel ratio. After installing the TPS to the correct output / signal voltage, it would be good to check the fuel trims at idle and ~2.5K rpm to see if the ECM is adjusting your fuel trims properly.

 

Find diagnostic steps and go step by step.
Before I got ALLDATA on my computer I went to local repair shop and took pictures from their computer. I paid them of course for that.

 

You may have reversed the wire. If you reverse the wires, she will start, high idle, no accelerator.Oh, if it the two wire connection. part # WPT 1269