The tailgate glass does not open on my Estate/Wagon. I thought it would be nice to fix this so I found the section in the workshop manual with instructions. First remove the rear wiper. Easy peasy. The next steps require the glass to be open. Except it doesn't open because the latch isn't working... It looks like the glass also holds the tailgate panel (the plastic cover bit that would be a "door card" if it was a door) captive so I can't open the entire tailgate and work my way in to the latch. Am I done for or is there another way to unlatch the rear window glass?

 

Here are some TSBs we got for tailgate issues.

 

Found elsewhere on the internet: the window switch is simply a contact to ground so if you follow the switch wire to the GEM (general electronic module) on the right hand A pillar behind the glove box (North America, left hand drive cars) you can short the switch to ground by back-stabbing it with a pick, a stiff skinny wire, a paper clip, etc. The bolt holding the GEM to the car is a good ground. Attached pics show all you need, a clip-on wire and a thin piece of metal. The wire from the switch is red with a white stripe, 2nd wire in, bottom row, of the GEM gray connector.



Connect where the 2 arrows point.


IF the switch is the problem and not the latch itself this will open the glass. I've decided you can probably open the glass also by prying open the switch cover and poking pins into the flex circuit to short the 2 loops together. I should have washed the car before taking these pictures.




My flex circuit is cracked and appears to be missing parts of both traces. With a meter on the switch I measure ~35 kOhms when I push the button so clearly not in the ballpark for something that should be a dead short when the button is pushed. I tried scraping, sanding, and melting the flex to solder some tiny wires on there to try to connect a micro switch but I had no luck making a connection to that flex circuit. I would like to keep at it but anything further would require me to get this part off the glass and I don't think that is possible. It appears to be bonded to the glass and I will try some dumb things but prying against an expensive and hard to find piece of glass is something I won't do.

Has anyone had the latch/wiper part disassembled from the window glass? Will it come off with a heat gun?

 

Oh dh53 what fun you're going to have, I foolishly did not take any pics.

I did this a while back on mine, I found a replacement item on t'bay as used in BMW 5 series but with a different wiring connector, not the biggest issue!
Get the central pin/bolt out that drives the wiper blade, this leaves a fused nut on its securing surround (not easy to describe)
I ended up using a dremel like device to cut the plastic part off and then cut thru the nut and use a chisel to prise it off.

I have not attempted this on my second one as the central post to drive the wiper blade is also fused.

Do let us know your progress as this is a MAJOR pita for these cars.

TIA

 

How did you get the post that drives the wiper out? I've got some penetrating oil on there now but no idea what to do next. Push that post "in" as seen from out side the car? Pull it out? Push toward the back, meaning pushing from the inside of the car toward the rear of the car if the glass was in the closed position? And what do you push, pull, or lever against? I do not want to break that glass.

 

After 3 days of penetrating oil and prying and heating and cooling I have decided to go the same route as PCJags and destroy the old handle to get it out. Jag replacement is part number C2S51478 which I can find for between $220 (used) and $300+ (dealer) online so I have ordered the supposed identical part sold by BMW for the 5 series, BMW part number 61319200673. I found a new aftermarket BMW handle on eBay for $20 delivered.

The description over at jaguarforum.com says even the electrical pins are the same so they just have to be removed from the plastic connector body and slid into the Jag connector. Here is the link to that post:
https://www.jaguarforum.com/threads/...ap-fix.138999/

 

DH53, well done for finding that posting, it was my inspiration for tackling it.
I hope you can see how it all goes together now.

I chose the BMW switch without the metal sleeve as the corrosion can totally jam that post in place.

Keep us updated on the progress