x-type not starting
#1
x-type not starting
Hi everyone,
I am new to this site and I am already posting a problem. I hope someone can help me.
I currently own a 2002 Jaguar x-type 2.5 and it is not starting. I was driving it one day and it just died immediately with no warning. After waiting on the side for 15-20 minutes it started back up again. This happened on a few occasions. Now my car won't start at all and it's just sitting. If I spray starter fluid into the intake manifold the car will start but die immediately after.
Does anyone have any idea what the problem could be and if you need more information I can give you them to the best of my abilities.
Thank you!!
I am new to this site and I am already posting a problem. I hope someone can help me.
I currently own a 2002 Jaguar x-type 2.5 and it is not starting. I was driving it one day and it just died immediately with no warning. After waiting on the side for 15-20 minutes it started back up again. This happened on a few occasions. Now my car won't start at all and it's just sitting. If I spray starter fluid into the intake manifold the car will start but die immediately after.
Does anyone have any idea what the problem could be and if you need more information I can give you them to the best of my abilities.
Thank you!!
#3
Sounds like fuel system to me. Try your fuel filter before anything else as this is the first thing to wear out and the cheapest to replace. The starter fluid illustrates that you have a spark, but you aren't getting fuel (possibly air, but not common.) You might also have clogged injectors, but start first with fuel filter. That's what I would do, and did on my 99 forester when it had a similar problem
#4
#5
sorry the fuel filter didn't help. It's always worth a shot though! What you will need to do now is to test your fuel pressure. In the words of thermo "There is a Schrader valve under the hood that you can test the fuel pressure with. It should be in the range of 40-50 psi with the engine not running and 30-40 psi with the engine running.
Keep in mind that you have a pump that feeds the motor and a second fuel pump that transfers fuel from the passenger side to the driver's side. So, make sure you replace the correct pump if you end up going this route."
If you test your fuel pressure, and it is either low or there is no fuel, I would place my bets on your fuel pump. If you are car savvy, it is not that hard (just smelly) to replace a fuel pump.
Keep in mind that you have a pump that feeds the motor and a second fuel pump that transfers fuel from the passenger side to the driver's side. So, make sure you replace the correct pump if you end up going this route."
If you test your fuel pressure, and it is either low or there is no fuel, I would place my bets on your fuel pump. If you are car savvy, it is not that hard (just smelly) to replace a fuel pump.
#6
Yeah the fuel filter was definitely worth a shot. It was an inexpensive and simple replacement. Wish it worked though!! I will be testing the pressure in the fuel rail in the next few days, then I'll find out what is wrong.
Someone was also telling me that it could be my crankshaft/camshaft position sensor. Do you think it could be that?
Someone was also telling me that it could be my crankshaft/camshaft position sensor. Do you think it could be that?
#7
Hi I am having a similar problem.
Only had the car three weeks, and after having it a couple of days it would struggle to start first thing in the morning. Once it is warmed up it starts with no problem.
My local garage checked the computer codes, then cleaned out the egr valve and it ran fine for a week, until Sunday. So it is back at the garage waiting for them to have a look again, probably tomorrow. I did check for codes myself but only P1111 showing on Sunday.
I will wait until they have had a look but will probably get them to swap the egr out.
Any advice welcome, thanks.
Only had the car three weeks, and after having it a couple of days it would struggle to start first thing in the morning. Once it is warmed up it starts with no problem.
My local garage checked the computer codes, then cleaned out the egr valve and it ran fine for a week, until Sunday. So it is back at the garage waiting for them to have a look again, probably tomorrow. I did check for codes myself but only P1111 showing on Sunday.
I will wait until they have had a look but will probably get them to swap the egr out.
Any advice welcome, thanks.
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#8
Going down the fuel pump route now
OK latest is that the fuel pump in the tank seems to be intermittently pumping at ignition, so a new one of them on order. (A new one seems to only be available from Jaguar and is not cheap, £220)
Three questions on this:
a) Firstly does this sound right, the car runs great once it starts. Would the car not splutter out at times if the fuel pump was faulty (although I have only had it a couple of weeks)
b) Should I get them to change anything else whilst the tank is dropped (e.g. how reliable is the second pump for pumping passenger side to driver side?)
c) I read that some jaguars have a fuel pump control module, but some are just controlled from the ECU. Does any one know what my model used?
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Three questions on this:
a) Firstly does this sound right, the car runs great once it starts. Would the car not splutter out at times if the fuel pump was faulty (although I have only had it a couple of weeks)
b) Should I get them to change anything else whilst the tank is dropped (e.g. how reliable is the second pump for pumping passenger side to driver side?)
c) I read that some jaguars have a fuel pump control module, but some are just controlled from the ECU. Does any one know what my model used?
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Last edited by Tonks; 08-23-2012 at 02:00 PM.
#9
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Tonks, I bet the shop is seeing the pump run for a few seconds right after the ignition is switched to the RUN position and then cutting out. THis is normal. That is how the fuel pump is supposed to run in this car (and most other cars I am familiar with). As for other things to change while the tank is down, can't think of any. Granted, I would probably recommend a good wiping out of the inside of the tank just to get rid of any debris that may have made its way into the tank over the years. This will help ensure a long life to the new fuel pump if you still install it.
As for the fuel pump module, both answers are correct. The 2.0L petrol engine just has a relay powering the pump. On the 3.0L and 2.5L motors, you have a computer that controls the fuel pump. So, depending on the motor you have, you may or may not have one. In your case, since you have the 2.5L motor, you have the fuel pump module.
As for the fuel pump module, both answers are correct. The 2.0L petrol engine just has a relay powering the pump. On the 3.0L and 2.5L motors, you have a computer that controls the fuel pump. So, depending on the motor you have, you may or may not have one. In your case, since you have the 2.5L motor, you have the fuel pump module.
#10
#11
The first step in any diagnosis is to get the codes read and post them. Poor idle and struggling to make RPM can be fuel, air or spark. Thus codes are important. Also, if you can get them post the Short term fuel trims and the Long term fuel trims.
You don't want to start throwing parts at it as that can be extremely expensive and still not resolve your problems.
You don't want to start throwing parts at it as that can be extremely expensive and still not resolve your problems.
#12
#13
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I would be checking the ground wires for the coils. They all tie into a common point that is known for corroding, leading to a poor spark issue. If you follow the cable runs from the coils, you should see where the ground wires attach to the top of the engine block. Remove the bolt, clean up all the connections so that all the terminals are silver in color and clean up the block surface. You can then bolt it back together and see what you have then.
I would also say to pull the front coil by the passenger headlight and see if you have oil in the plug well. That could possibly lead to misfires too. Granted, normally you only see the oil in the rear plug wells. But, depending on what someone did, hard to say what you might find.
I would also say to pull the front coil by the passenger headlight and see if you have oil in the plug well. That could possibly lead to misfires too. Granted, normally you only see the oil in the rear plug wells. But, depending on what someone did, hard to say what you might find.
#14
#15
Poor running X type
I would be checking the ground wires for the coils. They all tie into a common point that is known for corroding, leading to a poor spark issue. If you follow the cable runs from the coils, you should see where the ground wires attach to the top of the engine block. Remove the bolt, clean up all the connections so that all the terminals are silver in color and clean up the block surface. You can then bolt it back together and see what you have then.
I would also say to pull the front coil by the passenger headlight and see if you have oil in the plug well. That could possibly lead to misfires too. Granted, normally you only see the oil in the rear plug wells. But, depending on what someone did, hard to say what you might find.
I would also say to pull the front coil by the passenger headlight and see if you have oil in the plug well. That could possibly lead to misfires too. Granted, normally you only see the oil in the rear plug wells. But, depending on what someone did, hard to say what you might find.
#16
#17
We know a little more now. Old codes were misfire and O2 sensor codes. We found that MAP sensor was broke. Replaced it and installed new Autolite spark Plugs. Engine starts and idles slightly better. We check exhaust ports with IR Gun. Rear bank warms up, front bank is not. It appears to be running on only 3 rear cylinders. Front coil is firing and we have fuel flow/pressure. Spark Plug already black after only running 2 or 3 minutes. Compression seems to be lower on front, ~100-120 psi depending on how many cyles. Cam timing??? FYI engine has 139k miles.
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