XF (X260) 2015 onwards

Euro Amp Crossover and coolant pipe kits

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Old Mar 19, 2026 | 05:40 PM
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Default Euro Amp Crossover and coolant pipe kits

Looking for some current feedback on the Euro Amp V3 kits for the 3.0L SC engine in my 2017 XF. I've seen a range of opinions, mostly good, but a couple of quality or design issues to be aware of. Has anyone got direct recent experience of a the V3 kit?

https://www.euro-amp.com/collections...charged-engine

I hadn't planned on replacing the SC coupler, but it seems like it is a LOT easier to do while the SC is off, so I'll probably do that also.

Any issues I should be aware of, other things I should tackle while it's all apart?

There is no coolant loss at present, but there is sometimes a faint coolant smell. No sign of a leak in any parts I can see.

The car has c. 81K miles. Had to replace the fan recently, and a propshaft centre bearing some time ago, but it has generally been very reliable. This is preventive maintenance rather than an urgent fix.

Thanks,

Jim M.
2017 XF 3.0L SC
 
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Old Mar 19, 2026 | 08:04 PM
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I have this fitted on my 2017 XF and I had no issues with the kit itself. A I think the hose from the coolant pump isnt quite correct so is a very tight fit. there were other minor niggles but the result is worth it.
I struggled to get the supercharger snout off as the factory mastic is really good. That ended up being done at the shop while they hunted for the air leaks!

While you are in there, I would recommend doing a symposer delete too. it makes refitting everything easier and the thin vacuum lines get fragile and fail. I used the one from Velocity. It does sound a little quieter now but I am happy with that.

Replace all the gaskets too, A lot of videos on youtube reuse the metal supercharger gasket and some also reuse the intake to supercharger gaskets as they are metal, but I dont recommend it.
A few other things to be aware of are; corrosion on the supercharger to inlet dowls makes it a pain to remove and make sure you really clean both the dowls and the holes. I didnt clean the holes in the intake well enough and although the supercharger was torqued down correctly there was still a small gap resulting in an alr leak.
Another location where we had a small vacuum leak is the press clipped connection at the rear next to the PCV valve.
I also replaced the belts and both tensioners as once removed and refitted with new belts they started to get noisy. Oh and the supercharger oil.

I was at 58000 miles when the y-pipe split. it was on my 'I should do that as a precaution' list too. So I can only say get it done as soon as you can. I got lucky as she held together and didnt dump all the coolant at once.

 
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Old Mar 19, 2026 | 08:13 PM
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Oh, I recommend getting a copy of the service manual if you dont have it. I spent hours searching for info, torque settings, recommended order of actions etc.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2026 | 09:19 PM
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Great advice, thank you.

Do you know what the fix was for the leak near the PCV? Or, more to the point, how to avoid getting the leak in the first place?

It looks like the SC to Inlet gaskets are in the kit. By "metal supercharger gasket" do you mean between the SC and its cover?

Jim M.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2026 | 08:47 AM
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Hi Jim, I had to go back to the SNG site for better part names, It is the crank case breather pipe C2Z29983 and it is a very tight fit around the charge cooler and that pushed the connector to be slightly misaligned even though it felt connected correctly. The plan is to replace it as another future precaution as currently it is less than $40 at SNG.
And you are correct; my description was poor. the lower gaskets come with the kit but the large induction manifold gasket C2Z17248 doesn't. I replaced this too.

I also changed the plugs while in there, that is a pain too. The rubber sound covers, especially the passenger side are a pain to remove and refit as all the injector wiring is direct under them.


 
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Old Mar 20, 2026 | 08:57 AM
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I'll second the symposer delete. I had a vacuum leak from it and removed and capped it.. The symposer is a ugly mess cluttering up the backside of the engine. To me it made the sound the Jag makes more "natural" and linear.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2026 | 03:39 PM
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I'm getting my parts list together to get my orders in. On the symposer delete kit...

I don't see me ever needing the vacuum tap capability or the boost port, and $100 seems a bit expensive for what then amounts to a blanking plate (not for the kit, to be clear, as it is is truly a snazzy piece, beautifully made, and that doesn't come cheap), but are there any downsides to using a more basic blanking plate kit, like this? https://www.ebay.com/itm/177161666825 . Looks lt comes with caps vacuum takeoff and the firewall connection.

Jim M.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2026 | 06:45 PM
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I think that will be fine, if I had found that before I would have gone for it. I don't need the extra features either and you don't have to worry about air leaking in around the blanking screw.
The velocity one is very nice but the blanking screw doesn't go in flush anyway so looks odd although you never look back there anyway.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2026 | 07:00 PM
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I used a genuine LR part LR025788. It isn't cheap but it is less complicated... pulled the entire symposer... about $70 on ebay

Genuine Land-Rover Plate - Blanking LR025788 | eBay
 
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