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I plugged it in and the X260 wasnt listed so I updated the iCarsoft and tried again. When I run the diagnose option I only get door modules and keyless entry come up. There are no codes listed. Clearing codes does nothing. When I run OBD2 diagnose I get communications failure and now I have a permanent gearbox fault, no stability control and no special modes are available. It drives terrible. What now?
I disconnected the battery for a few seconds and now I have all modes, stability control is OK but I still have a gearbox fault light.
It now drives normally.
I suspect my Data Link is faulty.
I have just bought this breakout box. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/314681931785.
I found this guide too so I will use this to fault find the OBD2 port. OBD2 connection
I couldn't get my head down under the dash to have a look so I took a photo of the connector but couldn't see anything obvious.
I checked battery voltage too. 12.24v with car off. Is that good?
Any other suggestions?
...I checked battery voltage too. 12.24v with car off. Is that good?.....
12.24V = 50% SOC (state of charge) That's low but normal. It's important to check state of charge at least 15 minutes after any electrical usage to give the battery time to rebound. Just touching the door handle with the key fob close by will wake up the buss and cause the measurement to be inaccurate. Pop hood, connect DVM to jumper posts and wait. You can watch the voltage rebound to a quiescent state.
CTEK did its thing overnight full cycle to stage 7. Battery now at 13.7v.
Went for a short drive, stopped the car, restarted it and the fault light is gone.
This all started because my mechanic report the battery was at 67% and would need replacing shortly. I also noticed the auto Stop/Start wasn't operating and wondered what else had been disabled. I assumed that was disabled due to low battery.
Advice on here led me to the CTEK charger which has resurrected the battery.
Then I thought perhaps there was a residual fault code associated with the low battery. So that then led me to use the ODB2 scanner which didn't work.
So task now is to get the Data Link working. It could just be battery voltage but I am not game to try it yet until I get the Breakout box and do some tests.
That's too high, you probably measured it after just disconnecting the charger. Should level out to around 12.6+V. What does it measure after a couple of hours or the next day? Whether or not it holds the SOC tells you something about the battery health. If the battery is weak it will lose voltage much quicker than normal. My battery is 7 years old and since I don't drive much I constantly check the SOC and connect it to a trickle charger if it drops below 50%. It started out when new holding 12.7V and now it's holding at 12.6V. I don't like the new fangled battery management systems on cars today because they never allow your battery to charge on its' own to 100% because it always leaves overhead for charging during braking and slowing down. Even after long (4 hour) highway driving mine sometimes drops down to 50%. Chasing electrical faults is no fun.
You are correct, i had just disconnected the charger.
This morning voltage is 12.24v. With car running it goes up to 14.8v. I let it warm up an then switch off and the voltage gradually drops and settles at 12.7-12.8v.
Found I also don't have global window open/close.
Can you use the OBD2 scanner with car running or should it just be ON?
You are correct, i had just disconnected the charger.
This morning voltage is 12.24v. With car running it goes up to 14.8v. I let it warm up an then switch off and the voltage gradually drops and settles at 12.7-12.8v.
Found I also don't have global window open/close.
Can you use the OBD2 scanner with car running or should it just be ON?
You are correct, i had just disconnected the charger.
This morning voltage is 12.24v. With car running it goes up to 14.8v. I let it warm up an then switch off and the voltage gradually drops and settles at 12.7-12.8v.
Found I also don't have global window open/close.
Can you use the OBD2 scanner with car running or should it just be ON?
Every OBD2 scanner I have ever used, including three from iCarsoft, only works with the ignition on but the engine off.
However I believe most high end (read expensive!) scanners work both ways.
I have now connected up breakin box and icarsoft scanner. I have good green and red leds. +12v volts is fine. CAN+ is sitting about 2.8v and CAN- is about 2.1v which seems ok without using an oscilloscope. When I try to scan or diagnose the SAE-J1850 and ISO LED's flash but then I get a comms fail. So everything looks OK but still no comms or scanning.
I am going to update i930 again and try again.
I have emailed icarsoft but it does look like the i930 isn't compatible.
When I update the scanner I get these options. None of these will communicate.
I managed to get the lower trim removed and release the connector. Tricky.
I may have a wiring error. OBD2 pin outs are here;-
My connector looks like this;-
1 - Purple/white
2 - NC
3 -Yellow
4 - Bk
5 - Bk
6 - Gn
7 - NC
8 - NC
9 - Grey ?
10 - NC
11 - Y/P
12 - Blue
13 - Blue
14 - Grey ?
15 - NC
16 - Y/R
Can anyone explain this?
What are pins 1, 3, 9, 11,12,13 doing?
Why is there nothing for J1850 (pins 2 and 10) or ISO9141 (pins 7 and 15)?
Even without these should I get comms with CAN bus on pins 6 and 14?