5.0 Supercharged too lean on bank1, Aannoying issue
#1
5.0 Supercharged too lean on bank1, Aannoying issue
Hello everyone.
Jaguar XF 5.0 Supercharged.
i have a problem for a long time with lean bank 1. the corrections at idle are about 15 (only first bank). it does not cause an error, but the engine does not run nicely, uneven idling. I ruled out damage to the injectors and leak air. Air flow sensors and o2 sensors were replaced. but problem is still here.
engine is after rebuild (crankshaft, bearings...)
I think this problem was there before the bearing failure, because the oil plug smells like gasoline.The controller tries to compensate for the corrections by pouring fuel- which dilutes the oil.
I'm wondering about the camshaft gear? the chain, tensioners and sliders themselves were also replaced with the rebulid engine. How to check camshaft gear without removing it?I have a diagnostic computer but there is nothing alarming there.No error codes.The only thing i found disturbing was the fuel trim on bank 1
I will add that the roller adjusters were also swapped sides. no effect
100% no hidden air.
Please help me because I'm out of ideas
edit:
timing marks 100% ok.
power is ok.
brand new spark plugs.
fuel pressure ok
Just an idle problem. feel the vibrations on the body. also after throwing D or R. Turning on the air conditioning or vents intensifies it. also the RPM indicator jumps after start engine (until the RPM drops below 1000 RPM)
when I think that once again I will have to open the timing unnecessarily, I get a fever,
Jaguar XF 5.0 Supercharged.
i have a problem for a long time with lean bank 1. the corrections at idle are about 15 (only first bank). it does not cause an error, but the engine does not run nicely, uneven idling. I ruled out damage to the injectors and leak air. Air flow sensors and o2 sensors were replaced. but problem is still here.
engine is after rebuild (crankshaft, bearings...)
I think this problem was there before the bearing failure, because the oil plug smells like gasoline.The controller tries to compensate for the corrections by pouring fuel- which dilutes the oil.
I'm wondering about the camshaft gear? the chain, tensioners and sliders themselves were also replaced with the rebulid engine. How to check camshaft gear without removing it?I have a diagnostic computer but there is nothing alarming there.No error codes.The only thing i found disturbing was the fuel trim on bank 1
I will add that the roller adjusters were also swapped sides. no effect
100% no hidden air.
Please help me because I'm out of ideas
edit:
timing marks 100% ok.
power is ok.
brand new spark plugs.
fuel pressure ok
Just an idle problem. feel the vibrations on the body. also after throwing D or R. Turning on the air conditioning or vents intensifies it. also the RPM indicator jumps after start engine (until the RPM drops below 1000 RPM)
when I think that once again I will have to open the timing unnecessarily, I get a fever,
Last edited by mateuszyo; 06-18-2023 at 01:06 PM.
#3
A Few Red Flags There.
So you may have had the issue before the engine rebuild, renewed crank and bearings plus other parts.? Which indicated fuel contamination??
Have you opened the oil filler cap and smelt the oil?
Have you extracted some oil and checked for fuel contamination?
How have you ruled out Injectors? On bank No.1. Have you changed them over, renewed them, tested them?
Have you checked the spark plugs, for originals, not copies, condition, colour.
How does fuel get into the engine, on a D.I direct injection engine?
What was the root cause of the initial fuel contamination pre rebuild? Was it found, corrected?
Failure to find and and correct will be costly, and very annoying.
Jaguar XF 5.0 Supercharged.
i have a problem for a long time with lean bank 1. the corrections at idle are about 15 (only first bank).
it does not cause an error, but the engine does not run nicely, uneven idling. I ruled out damage to the injectors and leak air.
Air flow sensors and o2 sensors were replaced. but problem is still here.
engine is after rebuild (crankshaft, bearings...)
I think this problem was there before the bearing failure, because the oil plug smells like gasoline.
The controller tries to compensate for the corrections by pouring fuel- which dilutes the oil.
I'm wondering about the camshaft gear? the chain, tensioners and sliders themselves were also replaced with the rebulid engine.
How to check camshaft gear without removing it? I have a diagnostic computer but there is nothing alarming there. No error codes.
The only thing i found disturbing was the fuel trim on bank 1
I will add that the roller adjusters were also swapped sides. no effect
100% no hidden air.
Please help me because I'm out of ideas
edit:
timing marks 100% ok.
power is ok.
brand new spark plugs.
fuel pressure ok
Just an idle problem. feel the vibrations on the body. also after throwing D or R. Turning on the air conditioning or vents intensifies it. also the RPM indicator jumps after start engine (until the RPM drops below 1000 RPM)
when I think that once again I will have to open the timing unnecessarily, I get a fever,
Posting Rules
So you may have had the issue before the engine rebuild, renewed crank and bearings plus other parts.? Which indicated fuel contamination??
Have you opened the oil filler cap and smelt the oil?
Have you extracted some oil and checked for fuel contamination?
How have you ruled out Injectors? On bank No.1. Have you changed them over, renewed them, tested them?
Have you checked the spark plugs, for originals, not copies, condition, colour.
How does fuel get into the engine, on a D.I direct injection engine?
What was the root cause of the initial fuel contamination pre rebuild? Was it found, corrected?
Failure to find and and correct will be costly, and very annoying.
Jaguar XF 5.0 Supercharged.
i have a problem for a long time with lean bank 1. the corrections at idle are about 15 (only first bank).
it does not cause an error, but the engine does not run nicely, uneven idling. I ruled out damage to the injectors and leak air.
Air flow sensors and o2 sensors were replaced. but problem is still here.
engine is after rebuild (crankshaft, bearings...)
I think this problem was there before the bearing failure, because the oil plug smells like gasoline.
The controller tries to compensate for the corrections by pouring fuel- which dilutes the oil.
I'm wondering about the camshaft gear? the chain, tensioners and sliders themselves were also replaced with the rebulid engine.
How to check camshaft gear without removing it? I have a diagnostic computer but there is nothing alarming there. No error codes.
The only thing i found disturbing was the fuel trim on bank 1
I will add that the roller adjusters were also swapped sides. no effect
100% no hidden air.
Please help me because I'm out of ideas
edit:
timing marks 100% ok.
power is ok.
brand new spark plugs.
fuel pressure ok
Just an idle problem. feel the vibrations on the body. also after throwing D or R. Turning on the air conditioning or vents intensifies it. also the RPM indicator jumps after start engine (until the RPM drops below 1000 RPM)
when I think that once again I will have to open the timing unnecessarily, I get a fever,
Posting Rules
#4
Thanks for the tips, and I think the one you circled in red (about timing) is the cause. timing is probably not 100% ok.
The exhaust cam degress is approximately 120.
The intake cam degress is 87-90 on both banks at idle. from what i read yesterday on the forum it should be around 75 at the intake.
The problem is that I do not know what happened to the engine before the renovation because I bought it damaged - rod bearings
Yes, I can smell gasoline under the oil filler cap. so it gets into the oil.
How did you rule out the injectors? On bank number 1. Did you change them, renew them, test them?
they were completely swapped sideways, row 1 to row 2. the fuel trim remained the same, so I ruled out the injectors. Have you checked the spark plugs
whether there are originals, not copies, condition, color.
I will buy brand new original spark plugs. They turn black very quickly on bank 1. I don't remember if bank 2 does too. I will check.
How does the fuel get to the engine in a direct injection DI engine?
I think it's just unburnt fuel going through the cylinders to the oil pan.
What was the root cause of the initial fuel contamination prior to rebuild? Was it found, corrected?
no, I don't know how it worked before the engine failure.
seems strange for me that I would have both intake cams offset by the same amount. But I'm already in the process of opening the timing covers and checking again. I even allow the thought that the chains were wrong marks at the factory (timing is new, only the camshaft sprockets are old)
timing set according to all required locks and manual for this engine...
The exhaust cam degress is approximately 120.
The intake cam degress is 87-90 on both banks at idle. from what i read yesterday on the forum it should be around 75 at the intake.
The problem is that I do not know what happened to the engine before the renovation because I bought it damaged - rod bearings
Yes, I can smell gasoline under the oil filler cap. so it gets into the oil.
How did you rule out the injectors? On bank number 1. Did you change them, renew them, test them?
they were completely swapped sideways, row 1 to row 2. the fuel trim remained the same, so I ruled out the injectors. Have you checked the spark plugs
whether there are originals, not copies, condition, color.
I will buy brand new original spark plugs. They turn black very quickly on bank 1. I don't remember if bank 2 does too. I will check.
How does the fuel get to the engine in a direct injection DI engine?
I think it's just unburnt fuel going through the cylinders to the oil pan.
What was the root cause of the initial fuel contamination prior to rebuild? Was it found, corrected?
no, I don't know how it worked before the engine failure.
seems strange for me that I would have both intake cams offset by the same amount. But I'm already in the process of opening the timing covers and checking again. I even allow the thought that the chains were wrong marks at the factory (timing is new, only the camshaft sprockets are old)
timing set according to all required locks and manual for this engine...
Last edited by mateuszyo; 06-20-2023 at 01:52 AM.
#5
timing is ok. timing locks fall in and tooth distance between marks on Intake-exhaust is ok (10 teeth).which probably already excludes a wrong timing setting.
So on intake is 90 and 87 degress.
the computer shows the value indicated as 75 on Intake .
So on intake is 90 and 87 degress.
the computer shows the value indicated as 75 on Intake .
Last edited by mateuszyo; 06-20-2023 at 09:24 AM.
The following users liked this post:
bydand (06-20-2023)
#6
Just switch the plugs over, like you have done on the injectors. Have a look at the you tubes on fake plugs differences.
So the timing is correct mechanically, statically.
What about the variable drive on bank 1, being stuck slightly advanced, and only operating above 1000 rpm/ tick over?
This giving the differance between the static and the electronic pick up timing. (Just a thought) I am trying to dig out the 5ltr AJ133 engine book.
(The apple is at the menders, and I am working on the MS laptop) I am working on finding the back up.
So the timing is correct mechanically, statically.
What about the variable drive on bank 1, being stuck slightly advanced, and only operating above 1000 rpm/ tick over?
This giving the differance between the static and the electronic pick up timing. (Just a thought) I am trying to dig out the 5ltr AJ133 engine book.
(The apple is at the menders, and I am working on the MS laptop) I am working on finding the back up.
#7
Gus credits Jagrepair.com
Just switch the plugs over, like you have done on the injectors. Have a look at the you tubes on fake plugs differences.
So the timing is correct mechanically, statically.
What about the variable drive on bank 1, being stuck slightly advanced, and only operating above 1000 rpm/ tick over?
This giving the differance between the static and the electronic pick up timing. (Just a thought) I am trying to dig out the 5ltr AJ133 engine book.
(The apple is at the menders, and I am working on the MS laptop) I am working on finding the back up.
So the timing is correct mechanically, statically.
What about the variable drive on bank 1, being stuck slightly advanced, and only operating above 1000 rpm/ tick over?
This giving the differance between the static and the electronic pick up timing. (Just a thought) I am trying to dig out the 5ltr AJ133 engine book.
(The apple is at the menders, and I am working on the MS laptop) I am working on finding the back up.
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Trai...%204-15-09.pdf
from Gus,s Jagrepair.com an invaluable resource.
Trending Topics
#8
Just switch the plugs over, like you have done on the injectors. Have a look at the you tubes on fake plugs differences.
on your advice I made this swap but the car is not yet assembled to check
So the timing is correct mechanically, statically.
YES
What about the variable drive on bank 1, being stuck slightly advanced, and only operating above 1000 rpm/ tick over?
it is possible but why both banks equally? Bank 1 intake 87 degress ( must be 75), Bank2 90 degress (must be also 75) it's a strange coincidence.
This giving the differance between the static and the electronic pick up timing. (Just a thought) I am trying to dig out the 5ltr AJ133 engine book.
(The apple is at the menders, and I am working on the MS laptop) I am working on finding the back up.
even though the timing was set correctly I also think the gears got stuck in this shift during idle. I took the intake gears apart today but both were pin locked when I took it apart. I don't notice any damage. I cleaned it and put it back.I cleaned the filters (perfect condition when i remove it) in the camshafts and I reinstalled the timing chain using all the speciall tolls.
would be simpler if this shift degrees was only on one bank.
the fact that the shift occurs evenly on intake bank1 + bank2 makes it difficult to diagnose.
I also replaced the cam position sensors what you mentioned. Intake->Exhaust
I think tomorrow I'll be able to start the car again and check the readings.
there is still a chance that when the motor was rebild, the cam gears was not locked internally in a certain position, and after blocking while first running i got a shift. but on the other hand, yesterday after disassembly i put camshaft toll lock without any problems... there was no offset there...
after assembly to the end, probably need to look for an electronic reason...
thanks for fighting this with me.
on your advice I made this swap but the car is not yet assembled to check
So the timing is correct mechanically, statically.
YES
What about the variable drive on bank 1, being stuck slightly advanced, and only operating above 1000 rpm/ tick over?
it is possible but why both banks equally? Bank 1 intake 87 degress ( must be 75), Bank2 90 degress (must be also 75) it's a strange coincidence.
This giving the differance between the static and the electronic pick up timing. (Just a thought) I am trying to dig out the 5ltr AJ133 engine book.
(The apple is at the menders, and I am working on the MS laptop) I am working on finding the back up.
even though the timing was set correctly I also think the gears got stuck in this shift during idle. I took the intake gears apart today but both were pin locked when I took it apart. I don't notice any damage. I cleaned it and put it back.I cleaned the filters (perfect condition when i remove it) in the camshafts and I reinstalled the timing chain using all the speciall tolls.
would be simpler if this shift degrees was only on one bank.
the fact that the shift occurs evenly on intake bank1 + bank2 makes it difficult to diagnose.
I also replaced the cam position sensors what you mentioned. Intake->Exhaust
I think tomorrow I'll be able to start the car again and check the readings.
there is still a chance that when the motor was rebild, the cam gears was not locked internally in a certain position, and after blocking while first running i got a shift. but on the other hand, yesterday after disassembly i put camshaft toll lock without any problems... there was no offset there...
after assembly to the end, probably need to look for an electronic reason...
thanks for fighting this with me.
The following users liked this post:
bydand (06-21-2023)
#11
okay... re-setting the timing did nothing...
I think there is something with the motor controller.
please look for this parameters.
on both intake Cam duty cycle going to 40% at idle. the effect is that it gets offset by whatever the driver tells it to. when i unplug camshaft solenoid i have normal 75 degree. but then it also works unevenly.no errors from the engine driver. I guess everything mechanical has already been ruled out
probably the ECU is damaged or some failed tuning attempt was made there. because the compressor wheel looks smaller than it originally was.
It's hard to say for sure because I don't know what was before the failure engine.
is it possible to upload the original software to the controller using JLR?
what do you think?
I think there is something with the motor controller.
please look for this parameters.
on both intake Cam duty cycle going to 40% at idle. the effect is that it gets offset by whatever the driver tells it to. when i unplug camshaft solenoid i have normal 75 degree. but then it also works unevenly.no errors from the engine driver. I guess everything mechanical has already been ruled out
probably the ECU is damaged or some failed tuning attempt was made there. because the compressor wheel looks smaller than it originally was.
It's hard to say for sure because I don't know what was before the failure engine.
is it possible to upload the original software to the controller using JLR?
what do you think?
#12
okay... re-setting the timing did nothing...
I think there is something with the motor controller.
please look for this parameters.
on both intake Cam duty cycle going to 40% at idle. the effect is that it gets offset by whatever the driver tells it to. when i unplug camshaft solenoid i have normal 75 degree. but then it also works unevenly.no errors from the engine driver.
I guess everything mechanical has already been ruled out
probably the ECU is damaged or some failed tuning attempt was made there.
because the compressor wheel looks smaller than it originally was.
It's hard to say for sure because I don't know what was before the failure engine.
is it possible to upload the original software to the controller using JLR?
what do you think?
probably the ECU is damaged or some failed tuning attempt was made there.
I do not think the ECU is damaged, or you would not get anything, no start or run, The program may have been altered to improve the HP with the smaller pulley wheel, incorrectly.
because the compressor wheel looks smaller than it originally was.
A smaller supercharger pulley wheel has been fitted?.
is it possible to upload the original software to the controller using JLR?
JLR uploading the original software. No, I don,t think that is an option. You can ask around the dealers.
I would suggest you best bet, would be to speak with a tuner, who maps XF,s. for the pulley upgrades.
Who at least can see what the software is doing in the ECU, and can correct or revert to the original, or upgraded pulley size.
You do say in the thread header Bank One only, then further down it effects both banks, One and Two.? Which changes things.
I think there is something with the motor controller.
please look for this parameters.
on both intake Cam duty cycle going to 40% at idle. the effect is that it gets offset by whatever the driver tells it to. when i unplug camshaft solenoid i have normal 75 degree. but then it also works unevenly.no errors from the engine driver.
I guess everything mechanical has already been ruled out
probably the ECU is damaged or some failed tuning attempt was made there.
because the compressor wheel looks smaller than it originally was.
It's hard to say for sure because I don't know what was before the failure engine.
is it possible to upload the original software to the controller using JLR?
what do you think?
probably the ECU is damaged or some failed tuning attempt was made there.
I do not think the ECU is damaged, or you would not get anything, no start or run, The program may have been altered to improve the HP with the smaller pulley wheel, incorrectly.
because the compressor wheel looks smaller than it originally was.
A smaller supercharger pulley wheel has been fitted?.
is it possible to upload the original software to the controller using JLR?
JLR uploading the original software. No, I don,t think that is an option. You can ask around the dealers.
I would suggest you best bet, would be to speak with a tuner, who maps XF,s. for the pulley upgrades.
Who at least can see what the software is doing in the ECU, and can correct or revert to the original, or upgraded pulley size.
You do say in the thread header Bank One only, then further down it effects both banks, One and Two.? Which changes things.
#13
Have you reset the ECU touching the +ve and the -ve power leads, with the battery leads disconnected.
Is the battery fully charged, 12.7+ve.
Have you reset the throttle control positioner, by putting the accelerator peddle to the floor and fully back. With the ignition on, powered?
Is the air and the coolant temperature reading correctly on start up?
All cheap and easy to do. If the car has been down for a while. (Running out of ideas now.)
Is the battery fully charged, 12.7+ve.
Have you reset the throttle control positioner, by putting the accelerator peddle to the floor and fully back. With the ignition on, powered?
Is the air and the coolant temperature reading correctly on start up?
All cheap and easy to do. If the car has been down for a while. (Running out of ideas now.)
#14
Some of these things I did and some I didn't. I will try the rest today.
You do say in the thread header Bank One only, then further down it effects both banks, One and Two.? Which changes things.
wrong fuel trim i have only on bank1. Fuel trim on bank 2 is okay.
after setting up this thread i saw that intake cam degress are wrong on Bank1 + Bank2. this shift is caused electronically. because after disconnecting the connector from the adjuster degree going to Normal - 75
A smaller supercharger pulley wheel has been fitted?.
I think so. the compressor wheel has a slightly different flange.
Wrong Tuning , this is the most likely cause at the moment.
I ordered another ECU to rule out 2 causes, First - ECU internal damage, Second - bad tuning software.
it is possible that the engine failed due to poor tuning. the fault remained after the engine was overhauled because the ECU remained the same
You do say in the thread header Bank One only, then further down it effects both banks, One and Two.? Which changes things.
wrong fuel trim i have only on bank1. Fuel trim on bank 2 is okay.
after setting up this thread i saw that intake cam degress are wrong on Bank1 + Bank2. this shift is caused electronically. because after disconnecting the connector from the adjuster degree going to Normal - 75
A smaller supercharger pulley wheel has been fitted?.
I think so. the compressor wheel has a slightly different flange.
Wrong Tuning , this is the most likely cause at the moment.
I ordered another ECU to rule out 2 causes, First - ECU internal damage, Second - bad tuning software.
it is possible that the engine failed due to poor tuning. the fault remained after the engine was overhauled because the ECU remained the same
#15
#16
yes. this is lean only on one bank and only at idle. fuel trims back to "normal" while driving but engine work not smooth (at least that's what it seems to me) . however, As I wrote above, both bank intake cam is near 90 degree at idle. Strangely cold start before the engine gets below 1000rpm. gets the normal 75 degree on intake. As far as i know it shouldn't be like that. The ECU itself pushes the cams to reach 90 degrees.
I should receive other ECU in the middle of the week. Do you have any other ideas what could be causing this?
I should receive other ECU in the middle of the week. Do you have any other ideas what could be causing this?
#17
#18
#19
#20
^^^PVC valve working on my Triumph too often....
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xf-xfr-x250-44/pvc-questions-242024/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xf-xfr-x250-44/high-revs-lean-bank-1-2-a-228718/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xf-xfr-x250-44/pvc-questions-242024/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xf-xfr-x250-44/high-revs-lean-bank-1-2-a-228718/
Last edited by Jssaab; 07-02-2023 at 03:27 PM.