Hey there, looking for a little guidance on my 2011 XF SC. When my local shop was changing my pads and rotors they pointed out a number of busted bits in the linkage. Their estimate was painful, so I'm trying to come up to speed with what parts need to be replaced (whole arms or just rubber bits, etc). I'll attach the pics they took, but here's the rundown:

Replace both front upper control arms, quoted $553/ea plus $580 labor
Rear toe/radius arms left and right, quoted $162/ea plus $337 labor
Sway link/stabilizer link or bushing replace, rear left and right, quoted $86/ea plus $202 labor.

So I know I can get the oem control arms cheaper than that, but really if there's a way to only replace the soft parts and save some cash that'd be ideal. Just trying to educate myself about it. If you have any idea about those labor rates I'd appreciate input there too. I have new tires and intend to do an alignment, but this seems to need doing first. Thanks!

 

A quick search on powerflex (polyurethane upgrade if you are so inclined) suggests that you can in fact press out the old bushings on your control arms and install new ones for a fraction of what control arms cost. The ball joint can likely be done as well. The sway bar links can be had for about $30 each on rockauto.

The labor costs they are quoting you seems excessive for the sway bar links as that is probably the easiest thing ever to replace. Bushings that have to be pressed out can be a PITA.

IMO, get the bushings and ball joints replaced instead of doing the entire control arm.


And yes, do the alignment after you've finished the suspension rebuild. That way you only have to do the alignment once.

 

What giandaniel said - replace bushings and ball joints and you will be good as new. Ball joints can be a pain but these can all be done as a diy. I've replaced all of my upper bushings/ball joints myself and am working n the lower control arm bushings/ball joints and tie rods this weekend.

Our forum sponsors offer a 10% discount for forum members - so you could take advantage of that to even further reduce costs

If you lived closer, I'd have you bring it by and I would assist for nominal fee or cold beverages

 

How many miles are on the car? Are the ball joints actually worn out, or is it simply a case of split rubber boots? If it's just a case of bad boots, Energy Suspension makes universal replacement boots in various sizes. While they don't list anything specific for Jaguars (I looked), they do have a number of different sized boots that might work on a Jag.

 

It's up to you but after 2 Jags and 10+ years and 150K+ miles I don't worry about the rubber boots anymore.
Replace things when you have slop and noise. ALL cars will have rubber boot deterioration. That's just what happens.
Some people have replaced just the boots to help keep dirt and water out. But that's almost as much work as full replacement of the joint.

Do you have any noise?
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You could always buy 3rd party suspension parts (complete pieces with no pressing out and in bushings) from Rock Auto for a fraction of the cost of OEM.

Will the 3rd party options last as long as OEM? Hard to say since OEM is pretty crap. All Jags have this issue of splitting boots from Jag's suppliers using poor quality rubber on them for many years. Might be new to you, but it's not new to the owners of older models.

So the Rock Auto parts may last longer, or if anything, they last as long as you'll probably own the car.

 

And if you upgrade to polyurethane, those components will last much longer than the stock parts. Unfortunately, not everything is available in poly, and it is more expensive than sticking to rubber.

 

Thanks for the advice all! I can't do work on the car where I'm renting here in south FLA, so I'm gonna have to just buy parts. One question, has anyone had experience with these guys? https://www.carparts.com/details/Jag...J28150004.html - seems like one of those 'too good to be true' scenarios, but I'm tempted to order one just to see what it looks like.

 

Don't know them and never bought anything from them but the part appears legit and for that incredibly low price you don't stand to lose much if it's not right.
Be sure to check the postage cost though in case that is where they make up a heap of the discounted price.
Also it's driver side only, what about the passenger side?

 

JLR have quite the markup on their replacement parts under their individual SKU's. Here are cross-compatible part numbers for Ford Motorcraft upper control arms:

FRONT
MotorCraft MCSOE38 = 6W4Z3084AA
MotorCraft MCSOE39 = 6W4Z3085AA

REAR
6W4Z5500AB
6W4Z5500AA

These part numbers are an exact match for the suspension components on the X250; they are even stamped with a Jaguar logo! For your reference, here is a link to an Amazon storefront selling one of the front upper arms:

Click here to see the part!

Click here to see the part!

Best of luck with your suspension refresh!

 

Thanks OzXFR! @patrickw813 - the equivalent part number isn’t the same as the part number I have from the mechanic (like C2Z29117). Does MotorCraft MCSOE38 = 6W4Z3084AA = C2Z29117? Thanks, I appreciate looking out!

 

MotorCraft MCSOE38 = 6W4Z3084AA = Passenger Side = C2Z29115
MotorCraft MCSOE39 = 6W4Z3085AA = Drivers Side = C2Z29117

 

I've bought parts from them before it's legit.

I agree with @lostuespritse that if those went so quickly on the OE parts, might as well go OEM and see how long they last.

 

Thanks a lot for posting part numbers and the cross over numbers.
Very useful!
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bought a kit from these guys in the UK.
XJS front end alignment is not difficult. Camber adjust is even adj in and out. Caster handled by the shims on either side of the ball joint. Toe in is like any other car with a rack.
Inner tire wear short of cupping is negative camber or toe out. Cupping is shocks.
as long as there is no real slop in the front end you can align it. All things being equal.
FYI, not a fan of urethane except for the steering rack. Make sure your in good standing with you dentist so that he can put your fillings back in. JMO.

british parts.co.uk
Reasonable


Suspension Rebuild Kit

£70.41

1

£70.41



Sub Total

£70.41

Delivery

£25.81

VAT

£0.00

Grand Total

£96.22

 

This is very common for the age of the vehicle. I had my bushings pressed out.. The bushings themselves were OEM and were pretty cheap. The labor as one of the others said is a PITA and brought the price up to about $1200 all finished and done.

 

if you think OEM don't last, try aftermarket. They're worse to the point I will never use anything except OEM anymore on suspension when I do side work. Boots may last longer but the joints do not. I replaced tie rods for a customer and he insisted on aftermarket. This was a little over a year ago and the thing sounds like a old brass bed when he turns. The boots look new but the tie rod end are squeaky as hell. Which means he pays me again labor and alignment and he is buying OEM this time. I have had way to many issues over the years with non OEM stuff. And Mevotech are the worse. Buy the Motorcraft ones on Amazon, They are the oem and yes they do have Jaguar cast into the arms. I would not worry about the rear links or knuckle adjusters. They don't have play and Ive seen them bone dry and no grease or boots and still no play. The front control arms breaks bushings all the time and they make a distinct bobble noise when bad and the bushings are hidden so you can see the damage. Courtesy of our wonderful roads we drive on

 

Thanks again Brutal!
I have replaced the upper control arms and the drivers side is tough to do. But all the upper control arms I see have the boots completely gone.

Do you leave those go until there is noise or slop in the connection?
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Rock Auto and Amazon has the jaguar Version of the Motorcraft Upper arms listed as a 2002 Thunderbird (Share the chassis with the XF) Upper Control Arms
MCSOE38 and MCSOE39 For Aboutn $140

 

After replacing the upper control arm on the passenger side, I went over to try to do the same to the driver side and found it near impossible to get to the bolts. Can you please give me some tips