Anybody have any wiring diagrams or location for amplifier for the audio system....
#43
I've been following this thread closely, as i'm trying to find the details I need to do the exact same install on my 2013 XF 3.0. I've tried following what you had in the post, but so far I haven't been able to figure it out. If you can post some more details on where I need to look to tap into the speaker wire for the amp that would be amazing. I swear I climbed into my trunk and laid there with a pair of flashlights for about an hour last night. Then I read through the owners manual, then started googling some more. And just kept hitting this thread.
I know its a '13 so its different, but I can't imagine the trunk setup is that different. If you can offer some assistance from your experience, that would be amazing. More pictures could also prove useful.
Thanks a million in advance!
I know its a '13 so its different, but I can't imagine the trunk setup is that different. If you can offer some assistance from your experience, that would be amazing. More pictures could also prove useful.
Thanks a million in advance!
#44
Sound?
Below are some pics from my install.
Pic 1: Used wire taps to splice into L & R woofer signals (makes for easy connection).
Pic 2: Routed Power cables
Pic 3: Finished install of sub and amp
I ended up tapping into the fuse box in the trunk for the signal to switch the amp power on and off.
Thanks to BlackX300VDP and DMan for their help!
-Jim
Pic 1: Used wire taps to splice into L & R woofer signals (makes for easy connection).
Pic 2: Routed Power cables
Pic 3: Finished install of sub and amp
I ended up tapping into the fuse box in the trunk for the signal to switch the amp power on and off.
Thanks to BlackX300VDP and DMan for their help!
-Jim
So results - flattening the front and tapping the sub in-line - how does it sound? Did miss fill out and you get that punch that is missing?
I see MTX - what size/model subs and what amp? Premade box or custom?
Sorry to pepper you but you started and actually finished exactly what I am going to do this week. Just wondering if it is going to accomplish waht I want or if I just bite the bullet and yank out the front as well and rewire - ugh. Can't believe they would put this sound system in this car.
Thanks in advance, Jim!
gfountain-Dallas
#45
It appears by my previous print out on page 2 that for a remote turn on you will need to use your own mwthod for turning your amp on/off due to the factory amp turn on lead is done through the MOST system.
There is a power antena wire that functions like a amp turn on ( Yellow/Green +) but is only hot when the radio is on and has no juice when listening to any other source.
If my old subwoffer box fits in my XFR I will install it and do a write up with pix to help other for the future.
There is a power antena wire that functions like a amp turn on ( Yellow/Green +) but is only hot when the radio is on and has no juice when listening to any other source.
If my old subwoffer box fits in my XFR I will install it and do a write up with pix to help other for the future.
#46
Installed custom sub box, amp, trigger module, and bass knob...
I have an '11 XFR for which I just built and installed a sub box with 2 Pioneer TS-W257D2 10" subs (which I had laying around for awhile), a new JL Audio JX1000/1D Amp, a PAC TR-7 trigger module, and a JL Audio RBC-1 bass knob...
I wasn't sure if I should've started a separate thread for this or what, as I'm still a relative forum noob, but I just wanted to post a few pix of my sub box build and install, in case it helps anyone else out there who might be considering it. Huge thanks to "BigCat09" for all of his help with the wiring, stereo insight, etc. I couldn't have done it without him. Seriously.
Regarding the box, I don't know the dimensions, because I basically took the measurements and angles straight from the trunk to the cuts. I definitely did an overkill job on it, though, as this was my first build and I wanted it to be really solid, and I also wanted to make sure it filled the space correctly (including the angle of the back, where it meets the seats, etc.). I used silicone on the inside box seams, then used rubberized underbody coating all over the inside, and then I used polyfill stuffing. I primed the outside with a shellac based primer, then used bed liner on top of that. The thing is bullet proof and fits perfectly.
Regarding the amp wiring, I tapped into the 4 OEM subwoofer wires for the High Level amp inputs, as well as the trigger module signal feed. Then I ran the bass knob cable around the car to the center armrest console. I'm not a car stereo guru like a lot of you guys, but I'd be happy to elaborate as best I can, if anyone's curious.
So, without plastering the million pix I took, here're a few pix of various phases, including random pix which just show the wiring setup (some of the random wires in the trunk are the power and antennae for my remote exhaust cutouts). I'm extremely happy with every bit of the way it turned out, even if it did take me a little longer than anticipated to complete (as do all of my projects, it seems). And, sorry for the less-than-stellar quality of the pix; they were taken from my phone. But, I hope they at least help a little...
I wasn't sure if I should've started a separate thread for this or what, as I'm still a relative forum noob, but I just wanted to post a few pix of my sub box build and install, in case it helps anyone else out there who might be considering it. Huge thanks to "BigCat09" for all of his help with the wiring, stereo insight, etc. I couldn't have done it without him. Seriously.
Regarding the box, I don't know the dimensions, because I basically took the measurements and angles straight from the trunk to the cuts. I definitely did an overkill job on it, though, as this was my first build and I wanted it to be really solid, and I also wanted to make sure it filled the space correctly (including the angle of the back, where it meets the seats, etc.). I used silicone on the inside box seams, then used rubberized underbody coating all over the inside, and then I used polyfill stuffing. I primed the outside with a shellac based primer, then used bed liner on top of that. The thing is bullet proof and fits perfectly.
Regarding the amp wiring, I tapped into the 4 OEM subwoofer wires for the High Level amp inputs, as well as the trigger module signal feed. Then I ran the bass knob cable around the car to the center armrest console. I'm not a car stereo guru like a lot of you guys, but I'd be happy to elaborate as best I can, if anyone's curious.
So, without plastering the million pix I took, here're a few pix of various phases, including random pix which just show the wiring setup (some of the random wires in the trunk are the power and antennae for my remote exhaust cutouts). I'm extremely happy with every bit of the way it turned out, even if it did take me a little longer than anticipated to complete (as do all of my projects, it seems). And, sorry for the less-than-stellar quality of the pix; they were taken from my phone. But, I hope they at least help a little...
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Blackcoog (04-16-2013)
#49
Sorry, I missed this message.
I think I paid ~$150 for my Coustic 400W class D amp and $150 for my 10" MTX subs in the box. It is a very simple install using a couple in-line splicers so you don't have to cut any wires and can return it to stock. All the connections are in the trunk, makes wiring a simple task.
I just checked amazon and you can get a similar set up for $129 for amp and dual MTX 12" subs for $125. There you go $250. It will be the best $250 you can spend.
I think I paid ~$150 for my Coustic 400W class D amp and $150 for my 10" MTX subs in the box. It is a very simple install using a couple in-line splicers so you don't have to cut any wires and can return it to stock. All the connections are in the trunk, makes wiring a simple task.
I just checked amazon and you can get a similar set up for $129 for amp and dual MTX 12" subs for $125. There you go $250. It will be the best $250 you can spend.
Last edited by jjsaustin; 08-22-2013 at 10:52 PM.
#50
Door speaker upgrade
I'm new to this tread and have just read all of the informative information. My initial needs are a bit different than most of those expressed. I have a 2010 XFR with the fabulous B&W system. Recently I purchased a 2012 XF Portfolio and the audio system is disgusting! My first priority is to improve the mids and highs which are essential to good fidelity. For the 2012 XF I am currently considering replacing just the front 3 indoor speakers with the B&W parts from Jaguar. Does anyone know if this is a direct swap of parts (speaker fitment, and connector, impedance, and crossover compatibility)? Is the amp that drives these speakers in the trunk so that I can upgrade that later if needed?
The stock 2012 speakers are awful and plagued with annoying distortion. if I can achieve better mid and upper clarity with this upgrade I will be happy. Also, the 2012 XFR has a windshield center speaker....the 2012 does not. I have read that the wires for this speaker are there. Assuming the 2012 amp does not have a feed for this speaker, with an upgrade amp could I add this speaker in the future?
The Jaguar dealer won't do this work for me out of concerns of damaging the head unit. I strongly believe that this is not possible and will proceed on my own. How easy is it to tackle changing the door speaker or should I go to an aftermarket professional? Thanks to all who can share thoughts on this.
The stock 2012 speakers are awful and plagued with annoying distortion. if I can achieve better mid and upper clarity with this upgrade I will be happy. Also, the 2012 XFR has a windshield center speaker....the 2012 does not. I have read that the wires for this speaker are there. Assuming the 2012 amp does not have a feed for this speaker, with an upgrade amp could I add this speaker in the future?
The Jaguar dealer won't do this work for me out of concerns of damaging the head unit. I strongly believe that this is not possible and will proceed on my own. How easy is it to tackle changing the door speaker or should I go to an aftermarket professional? Thanks to all who can share thoughts on this.
#51
So, after digging around the information I have and reading the sales brochures, I am humbled. There really is a base system available in the US now. 09-11 definitely had the "premium system" as the base system with the B&W as the option. Looks like 2012 did, in fact, change the availability of sound systems. As you have found, the base system does not include the subwoofer. I'm sorry I got confused on the matter. Historically, Jag has not offered the real base system in the US. It has offered the global premium and then high-line to the US. Learn something new every day!! After looking at the wiring diagram, there are only wires that go to each speaker and none showing for a sub. I don't know if the processing is even in the amp for the sub so you could use the pins coming out of the amp.
My wiring diagrams show a 3-way setup (Tweeter, Mid range-and low range) speakers in the front AND a 2-way in the rear doors.
Colors are coming out of the AMP in the rear trunk on the BASE sedan that has a "premium" system.
LF BASS (+): White (pin 2)
LF BASS (-): White/brown (pin 10)
RF BASS (+): White/ Purple (pin 4)
RF BASS (-): White/Orange (pin 12)
Hope this helps, if you need a screen shot of the schematic let me know
#52
#54
I have an '11 XFR for which I just built and installed a sub box with 2 Pioneer TS-W257D2 10" subs (which I had laying around for awhile), a new JL Audio JX1000/1D Amp, a PAC TR-7 trigger module, and a JL Audio RBC-1 bass knob...
I wasn't sure if I should've started a separate thread for this or what, as I'm still a relative forum noob, but I just wanted to post a few pix of my sub box build and install, in case it helps anyone else out there who might be considering it. Huge thanks to "BigCat09" for all of his help with the wiring, stereo insight, etc. I couldn't have done it without him. Seriously.
Regarding the box, I don't know the dimensions, because I basically took the measurements and angles straight from the trunk to the cuts. I definitely did an overkill job on it, though, as this was my first build and I wanted it to be really solid, and I also wanted to make sure it filled the space correctly (including the angle of the back, where it meets the seats, etc.). I used silicone on the inside box seams, then used rubberized underbody coating all over the inside, and then I used polyfill stuffing. I primed the outside with a shellac based primer, then used bed liner on top of that. The thing is bullet proof and fits perfectly.
Regarding the amp wiring, I tapped into the 4 OEM subwoofer wires for the High Level amp inputs, as well as the trigger module signal feed. Then I ran the bass knob cable around the car to the center armrest console. I'm not a car stereo guru like a lot of you guys, but I'd be happy to elaborate as best I can, if anyone's curious.
So, without plastering the million pix I took, here're a few pix of various phases, including random pix which just show the wiring setup (some of the random wires in the trunk are the power and antennae for my remote exhaust cutouts). I'm extremely happy with every bit of the way it turned out, even if it did take me a little longer than anticipated to complete (as do all of my projects, it seems). And, sorry for the less-than-stellar quality of the pix; they were taken from my phone. But, I hope they at least help a little...
I wasn't sure if I should've started a separate thread for this or what, as I'm still a relative forum noob, but I just wanted to post a few pix of my sub box build and install, in case it helps anyone else out there who might be considering it. Huge thanks to "BigCat09" for all of his help with the wiring, stereo insight, etc. I couldn't have done it without him. Seriously.
Regarding the box, I don't know the dimensions, because I basically took the measurements and angles straight from the trunk to the cuts. I definitely did an overkill job on it, though, as this was my first build and I wanted it to be really solid, and I also wanted to make sure it filled the space correctly (including the angle of the back, where it meets the seats, etc.). I used silicone on the inside box seams, then used rubberized underbody coating all over the inside, and then I used polyfill stuffing. I primed the outside with a shellac based primer, then used bed liner on top of that. The thing is bullet proof and fits perfectly.
Regarding the amp wiring, I tapped into the 4 OEM subwoofer wires for the High Level amp inputs, as well as the trigger module signal feed. Then I ran the bass knob cable around the car to the center armrest console. I'm not a car stereo guru like a lot of you guys, but I'd be happy to elaborate as best I can, if anyone's curious.
So, without plastering the million pix I took, here're a few pix of various phases, including random pix which just show the wiring setup (some of the random wires in the trunk are the power and antennae for my remote exhaust cutouts). I'm extremely happy with every bit of the way it turned out, even if it did take me a little longer than anticipated to complete (as do all of my projects, it seems). And, sorry for the less-than-stellar quality of the pix; they were taken from my phone. But, I hope they at least help a little...
#55
When you get a minute, please follow this link New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum to the New Member Area - Intro a MUST forum and post some info about yourself and your vehicle for all members to see.
In return you'll get a proper welcome and some useful advice about posting to the forum.
Graham
#56
I don't have great news for you, if you aren't willing to risk some potential damage to your rig... I pulled that plastic piece out (it just pops right out), drilled a hole in it, and then finally took a Dremel rotary tool to the underside to get rid of some of the ridging. The top washer covers up any areas where the drill marred the edges, and the knob covers the washer.
The good news is that it's only like a $20 part, if you screw it up on the first attempt (I always check on replacement parts before I decide what work I'll do, just in case).
Tip: buy a replacement plastic piece before you do the work, then return it if you don't need it. That way, you don't risk having to stare at a hole in your car for several days, if you aren't successful on your first attempt and they have to order the part.
The good news is that it's only like a $20 part, if you screw it up on the first attempt (I always check on replacement parts before I decide what work I'll do, just in case).
Tip: buy a replacement plastic piece before you do the work, then return it if you don't need it. That way, you don't risk having to stare at a hole in your car for several days, if you aren't successful on your first attempt and they have to order the part.
#57
Changing subs
Hi everyone needing some real help here
I have just bought the xf 09 plate and it has the sub under the wheel! If I was to just change the sub to a better one same size 8 inch will this be any better? Will the factory amp support it? Will it still do that thing where it lowers the sound when the base kicks in when listening to it!
My alternative is I disconnect the sub in there and connect my current sub and amp I have found the four wires that run to that sub but which one do I use to connect my sub and amp too?
Thanks
I have just bought the xf 09 plate and it has the sub under the wheel! If I was to just change the sub to a better one same size 8 inch will this be any better? Will the factory amp support it? Will it still do that thing where it lowers the sound when the base kicks in when listening to it!
My alternative is I disconnect the sub in there and connect my current sub and amp I have found the four wires that run to that sub but which one do I use to connect my sub and amp too?
Thanks
#58
Will the base level amp drive a centerspeaker?
Hi, I'm a newbie here but would really like to know if you ever got an answer to whether a new amp is needed to drive a center (windshield) speaker. My 2014 SE does not have the center speaker and I'd like to fit one and I believe I only have the basic audio system.
I'm new to this tread and have just read all of the informative information. My initial needs are a bit different than most of those expressed. I have a 2010 XFR with the fabulous B&W system. Recently I purchased a 2012 XF Portfolio and the audio system is disgusting! My first priority is to improve the mids and highs which are essential to good fidelity. For the 2012 XF I am currently considering replacing just the front 3 indoor speakers with the B&W parts from Jaguar. Does anyone know if this is a direct swap of parts (speaker fitment, and connector, impedance, and crossover compatibility)? Is the amp that drives these speakers in the trunk so that I can upgrade that later if needed?
The stock 2012 speakers are awful and plagued with annoying distortion. if I can achieve better mid and upper clarity with this upgrade I will be happy. Also, the 2012 XFR has a windshield center speaker....the 2012 does not. I have read that the wires for this speaker are there. Assuming the 2012 amp does not have a feed for this speaker, with an upgrade amp could I add this speaker in the future?
The Jaguar dealer won't do this work for me out of concerns of damaging the head unit. I strongly believe that this is not possible and will proceed on my own. How easy is it to tackle changing the door speaker or should I go to an aftermarket professional? Thanks to all who can share thoughts on this.
The stock 2012 speakers are awful and plagued with annoying distortion. if I can achieve better mid and upper clarity with this upgrade I will be happy. Also, the 2012 XFR has a windshield center speaker....the 2012 does not. I have read that the wires for this speaker are there. Assuming the 2012 amp does not have a feed for this speaker, with an upgrade amp could I add this speaker in the future?
The Jaguar dealer won't do this work for me out of concerns of damaging the head unit. I strongly believe that this is not possible and will proceed on my own. How easy is it to tackle changing the door speaker or should I go to an aftermarket professional? Thanks to all who can share thoughts on this.
#59
Helo guys,
I'd like to thank you for the instructions.
My case: Jaguar XF MY2013 (in fact 2012) and has very basic specs.
So I had no subwoofer and even though there are wires going to the right place, those are not connected to the amplifier.
I decided to buy an active subwoofer and ended up with Infinity BassLink.
My steps:
Thank you guys! Hope my experience will also be useful.
I'd like to thank you for the instructions.
My case: Jaguar XF MY2013 (in fact 2012) and has very basic specs.
So I had no subwoofer and even though there are wires going to the right place, those are not connected to the amplifier.
I decided to buy an active subwoofer and ended up with Infinity BassLink.
My steps:
- Disconnect the battery!
- Amplifier is there.
- In my case amplifier is for 9 speakers.
- Then I found the wiring diagram.
- As per instruction from subwoofer I connected to 4 speakers front and rear mid-range. All wires are in the grey connector.
- I used these blue wire connectors to connect. But you can also solder the wires.
- DO use thick cables to power up the woofer. I used 8mm2
- Connect everything else and enjoy!
Thank you guys! Hope my experience will also be useful.
#60
Hi Guys,
Thanks to this thread I have had the courage to upgrade my sound system! I have the base audio system which I am not happy with
The installation went pretty smoothly until I stumbled across a problem. I've replaced all the speakers which come with there own crossover. So only one full range signal is needed from the after market amplifier to the speakers.
I have used the rear door speaker signal to tap into and wired that to a hi to low converter. The issue i've got is that I don't believe this to be a full range signal rather a mid/low range. When i hooked it up it sounded awful just to verify my setup I connected my phone using 3.5 jack to RCA and connected that to my after market amp. I played some music all the door speakers sounded fantastic, this confirm's all the wiring is correct, just the signal im using is not full range
So the question is how do i get a true full range signal to feed into the high to low converter... is there a way to get a pre amp signal ? any help will be greatly appreciated as my car is in bits and i want to start driving again!
Thanks in advance
Thanks to this thread I have had the courage to upgrade my sound system! I have the base audio system which I am not happy with
The installation went pretty smoothly until I stumbled across a problem. I've replaced all the speakers which come with there own crossover. So only one full range signal is needed from the after market amplifier to the speakers.
I have used the rear door speaker signal to tap into and wired that to a hi to low converter. The issue i've got is that I don't believe this to be a full range signal rather a mid/low range. When i hooked it up it sounded awful just to verify my setup I connected my phone using 3.5 jack to RCA and connected that to my after market amp. I played some music all the door speakers sounded fantastic, this confirm's all the wiring is correct, just the signal im using is not full range
So the question is how do i get a true full range signal to feed into the high to low converter... is there a way to get a pre amp signal ? any help will be greatly appreciated as my car is in bits and i want to start driving again!
Thanks in advance