I did a search to see if there is anything unique to the XF for brake fluid flush. I came across something that mentioned something about the electronic pump and some unique things that had to be done. Is there anything different with flushing the XF? Can I just flush as normal?

 

I did my old 2010 Premium last year, nothing special.


Keep the reservoir full and use a clear drain hose on the bleeder to watch to see when the old fluid turns to new fluid.


I used the 2-man method, very easy.

 

How many drain nipples per wheel -- one or two?

 

One on each wheel.

 

And, I'm guessing any good DOT4 fluid is OK??

 

I used full synthetic dot 4.

 

Just after you do your flush that way, you want to drive the car and hard ABS stop it a few times to move new brake fluid into the ABS actuator. Brake fluid in the ABS actuator dose not move until the ABS is used, or the dealer or ABS service equipped shop remotely commands the ABS to cycle. While moisture causes corrosion in the rest of the brake system, it can cause that and brake fluid crystallization in your ABS.
We all should be cycling our ABS at least 1x a month anyways.

 

So you're saying it's actually a good thing that occasionally when I'm texting or reading the forum in my car that I need to use the ABS to keep from rear ending someone?

 

I believe there is a misunderstanding of the brake fluid system...

Whether you bleed the brakes via the old fashioned two man method or the pressurized method the dealer uses..The ENTIRE brake fluid system gets expelled and replaced as the new fluid is added..Including the ABS circuit..No amount of old fluid is left behind..It all goes through it as well...Braking your car to activate the ABS system unnecessarily, is putting needless stress on the brakes/system and leads to more pad/rotor wear than you need..

 

When I got my rotors, pads and fluid replaced a few weeks ago the shop simply gravity bled the old fluid out then filled up with new fluid. Same thing when I had the rotors skimmed and new pads and fluid a year ago. Both times I bedded the new pads in with a dozen or so strong braking efforts (hard braking down from 50 mph to 10 mph, repeat), but not hard enough to invoke the ABS. No braking problems since either time, and the ABS works as it should (although I've invoked it only twice due to some muppet pulling out on me from a side street).

 

If one wants to try their ABS system to see if it actually works..I recommend doing it on a snow or Ice covered road..less stress on the system, but still activates the ABS pump.

 

So the whole thing about you have to activate the ABS to move the fluid out of the ABS pump is false? I've heard for years that you have to do that...

Thanks!

 

I checked the workshop manual (topix) for the brake bleeding procedure. I couldn't find anything that states that the abs pump should be activated for proper bleeding procedure.

 

Bleeding and Flushing are two different processes. ABS solenoids are NOT cleared of old fluid in a brake bleed or flush WITHOUT ABS activation. http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...-brake-systems

 

Yes SIR, and since the panic stop is a California tradition, we're good..lol

 

Did you see the age of that article - 2001?

Cycling the ABS was common on older systems, not so sure it's required much these days. I also checked the TOPIX and replacing the ABS modulator/controller doesn't require a special bleeding procedure - just your usual pedal pump so I doubt the Jag system has any "hidden passages".

 

Topix and the my service manual also says this is the GENERALIZED method of BLEEDING the brake system, not FLUSHING the brake system as the question was asked. And while the article may be from 2001 and the Topix/Book may say whatever, in reality the its the electronics have changed in today's ABS NOT the hard parts.
So you do you with Topix.
and I'll do me with my hands on and Topix/Manual.