One broken OEM lug nut, rear drivers side on my 2013 Jaguar XF AWD. The top portion (back end) of the nut is gone. I'm not sure what happened, it was like this when I bought the vehicle used. Two pictures attached. The small center is the actual stud, which at the moment is without damaged.

Jaguar dealer in Virginia Beach quotes $2,757.46 to repair, plus they warn of possible damage to the wheel (at my risk). They say that the stud will need to be drilled out, which could damage the wheel, then after drilling, the hub & knuckle will need to be replaced. When I asked, why the knuckle they said that they have had instances when after they have pressed the hub from the knuckle, they have damaged the wheel bearing. Then the customer returns to say there a new noise coming from the rear wheel - as a result of damaging the wheel bearing during the repair.

My understanding is that part of the problem is that by design there is no clearance to punch out the stud & insert a new one. I've easily done this on my XK8. A friend suggested that perhaps he can cut off the wheel, then get enough access to remove what is left of the nut, without damaging the stud. But this is also an unknown. If successful (no harm to the stud), a replacement wheel is far less expensive than $2,757.46.

Any suggestions on how I should proceed? Of course my first choice would be to remove what is left of the lug nut without damaging the stud. There is little clearance around what is left so I'm thinking that maybe drilling the stud is the only option. If true, I'm looking for advice as to how best approach replacing the stud on this particular vehicle. After my research I fear that separating the hub from the knuckle might be my biggest challenge? Even advice on just that would be appreciated.

 

I have NOT done this but seen it recommend before.
Get a small carbide hole saw and size it so it barely fits over the top of the stud.
Then cut a cylinder of metal free and you should be able to remove the wheel. It might damage the hub depending on how deep you go.

I was going to suggest driving a smaller socket over whats left and try to unscrew it but that looks pretty rusty so the car must have seen salt?
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Thank you! I noticed that too on another post. I've been trying to find a 9/16" carbide tipped hole saw bit that will go deep enough (2"?).

 

If you do get it off please post back so we can see how you did it!
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I absolutely will, thanks! "Normally" I'd do like everyone else - drill the stud. But unfortunately (by design) there is no room to punch the stud through & put in a replacement. Even though it might come to that. Despite my worry that I'll encounter problems when I try to separate the hub from the knuckle. I guess my local Jaguar dealership is worried about that too - since they want to replace both.

 

I'm still confused as to what I'm looking at? When I look at what is left of the factory nut, I can't seem to understand how it can look like it does? When I watch Youtube video's, they remove the outside covering of the lug nut, they're facing a bolt. Could what is left be part of the outside covering or something?

 

I don't think it's part of the cover as that is SS?
It's a bit hard to see and I don't know if your familiar with the CRAP lug nuts Jaguar installs on ALL models.
I was going to suggest that when you do get it off that you replace all 20 with SOLID lug nuts. There are a number of options including SS.

Many threads about this and still some people want to argue that they are just fine. Be my guest but I have enough problems and this one can be fixed so easy!
This thread does a good job explaining what the problem is.
Lug Nuts

Hard to believe but Jaguar is still using them for over 20 years now! I replaced all of them on my 2005 STR and could not believe my 2014 XJR still had the sheet metal covered lug nuts!
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As I've been researching I've seen some of the posts, thanks! If I can figure out the correct size, I'll likely replace all to one piece nuts, with as good a quality as I can find - just as soon as I get past this dilemma.

My last Jaguar had the similar lug nuts & I didn't have a problem. But even if I did, there was room to punch the stud through an opening & get a new one through without separating the hub from the knuckle. In other posts it seems that over torqueing is the main culprit & ratchets that don't fit snug can hurt too.

I tried a deep socket today, no luck.

 

There is post on how to remove this on another forum with links to the tool (about £6 on amazon from memory) https://www.jaginfo.org/threads/how-...el-nut.112562/ . I would recommend replacing all your lug nuts and locking wheel nuts and spraying all of your existing lugs nuts with penetrating fluid before attempting to remove.

The broken log nut isn't bad at all you can do it yourself with a drill and the tool or get it removed by a pro for around £100.

 

The post I linked has several options with part numbers but other threads are easy to find. A lot of guys used the Chrysler/Mitsubishi ones but have heard they are now hard to get.
Several good reports about Gorilla nuts.

But you first have to get the nut off anyway before you can remove the stud. I thought there was room around the rear knuckle behind the hub so if you rotated the hub you could drive the stud out?
It's been a while but when it happened on my old 2005 STR I did not remove the hub to repair it? Maybe remove the dust shield?



Your right it does not appear possible even though you can see the studs from the back side of the knuckle.
Looks close though?
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That's precisely the type of tool that I'm trying to for - thanks "sockpuppet". Hopefully they'll accept an order from the USA.

 

Thank you "clubairth1". I don't think I'll tackle the wheel until I buy a spare wheel - in case I damage the wheel. I'll certainly post the results. If I damage the stud I'm worried about getting the hub separated from the knuckle.

 

You can almost certainly find the tool in the USA, probably on amazon.

The studs can't be removed until you get the hub off and Jaguar don't sell the replacement studs only a replacement hub.

 

I found & bought the tool in USA on eBay - two actually. One which is Lenox brand & another which is Morse brand. Pictures attached.

I went with 9/16" which is only 14mm, because I see that others have used this size & I'd prefer to get as close to the stud as I can. I'll come back & post how it went.

Lenox brand above, 9/16" (14mm)


Morse brand above, 9/16" (14mm)

 

Good to see. That Morse one looks good and stout too!
Yes Jaguar only sells the hub but you can easily find the wheel studs separately on EBay or the local parts store.
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Before attempting the repair yesterday, I removed a "good" lug nut to check that my 9/16" (14mm) hole saw drill bit would fit over top of my stud. It's a good thing that I did, because it did not. The bit opening is too small - so I expect I would have cut into the thread off the stud. So I went back on eBay & bought two of the next size = 5/8" (16mm). Upon receipt & when I have time to try the repair I'll come back to post my results.

 

RESOLVED

In hindsight, I should have used an 11/16" hole saw bit. As big as possible (to clear the stud) - but still small enough so that what is left behind will still fit through the stud opening in the wheel. I used 5/8" (16mm) & near the end I sheared off the top part of my stud thread. It didn't matter because a stud broke on the same wheel (as I was swapping out all my lug nuts with new factory OEM's).

After drilling, my wheel was fine.

It took plenty of heat & torque to eventually pull the knckle/hub/bearing assembly from the axle.

I ended up having to press a new bearing assembly into a new knuckle. Then add a new snap ring (bearing retainer clip). Then press in a new hub. Beware, a heat shield is required too (even though it was riveted into the original).

I swapped out all of my lug nuts with new OEM's, adding a slight touch of anti-seize.

So in the end my local Jaguar dealer was exactly right with regard to what they recommended. I ended up saving some labor costs, but it was a very serious repair.

 

Hello, something like this happened to me last time when I changed tyres. I don't know specifically how exactly the nut broke, but I when I came to pick up the car, the mechanic told me that I will have to wait for some ten minutes longer.

He told me that he had to weld another nut on the remains of the old nut, and he admitted that the welding job took some extra tinkering, but there was no damage to wheel, stud or hub, and no additional costs as well, yes, the repair cost me NOTHING, as guy said it was only his responsibilitty. I did not specifically asked if the accident happened with the wheel on, but it seems most likely, that it happened that way, because I see no point for the mechanic to try to tighten the nut without the wheel on.

So I do believe that it is worth searching around for a bit longer and look for mechanic, who can weld well. In your case the stud and the remains of the nut also look quite rusty, so some penetrating fluid also would be good before starting anything. However, during the welding process the nut and the stud will heat up anyway, and of course, it will also help.

 

Glad to see you got it fixed.
It's not a fun repair either.
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