hey all, first post, read around the forum regarding plastic replacements etc. Check out this atrocity. Coolant steam rising from front of car one sunny day. Coolant spray everywhere so hard to assess leak origin. Based on accumulation, replaced water pump seals and plastic pipe leading to back of water pump. Still bad leak so removed a few more parts and this is the pic. Seems to be coming from the bottom of what I think is the timing cover? What? .edu required. Thank in advance.

coolant leak from bottom of timing cover?

 

That should be oil in that area obviously, but clean up around there and do a coolant pressure test to see what fluid your car is being incontinent about. Your local parts store may even have a kit you can borrow, depending.

 

Just noticed the alternator under this mess, avoid letting anything drip on it. Expensive to replace since only they work right from OEM.

 

@litteredwithfaults Appreciate the quick response and agree w/the oil assessment. So much coolant mixed in threw me off. Will clean up that area and do a coolant pressure test.

 

what engine is this? Could be cracked y-pipe filling up V-alley and thats where the lake escapes
Chris

 

could be the Y-pipe. It and the upper connecting pipe are original plastic. I'll pay close attention to that area when doing the coolant pressure test, hopefully today. Forgot to mention, it's the 3.0 supercharged.

 

Looks like a 5.0 supercharged. Wrong again!!!

 

All cleaned up and started flowing like a river from the area underneath the water pump during pressure test. I know it's not the water pump because of the pooling behind it.
Pulled the throttle body forward for a better view but still can't be certain whether its the Y-pipe or the hose going from the bottom of the throttle body to the rear of the engine. I really don't want to remove the SC, sob.

 

There are a few plusses to removing the SC:
1. You can tackle pretty much all the crappy plastic coolant pipes and replace them.
2. You can replace the SC fluid.
3. You can replace the problematic SC coupler / torsion isolator.
Lots of work and a fair bit of money but your engine will thank you for it!

 

Did you change the plastic pipe from the back of the water pump to the oil cooler ? Its a cheap 40 $ part.

 

Yes I changed that out prior to this test. I've downloaded the related Topix material and am going to remove the SC to change out the Y-pipe and upper pipe. Wish me luck

 

make sure you get a solid SC coupler ony 80 bucks and will last for years. The spring loaded one from the factory is complete rubbish and will definitely break in short order.

 

Update: all parts removed including charger cooler in prep to remove last six bolts and lift SC off the engine. The valves look super dirty. Advice for the best way to clean 'em up? Car has 98K miles. And is there a diy guide on here for changing the SC oil? I might go get and use this if the SC gives me too much removal grief as suggested on another thread.

 

the culprit - broken Y-pipe


and the SC all cleaned up. I have a solid coupler/isolator ready to put on since I have the "box of rocks" clunking problem when the engine it turned off due to broken coupler. Going to change the SC oil also.

Thanks for the tips and direction everyone, appreciate you tons!!

 

Does anyone know if this electronic SC bypass valve is supposed to be open? Does the computer close it when boost is needed?

 

It gradually closes as you press the go pedal / demand more giddyup.
So when coasting or at idle it is fully open and under WOT it is fully closed.