Drivers side door won't lock
Veteran Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,152
Likes: 597
From: Devon, United Kingdom
If you believe it may have been the cable sticking then removing it and taping one end of the wire to the nozle of the WD40 to seal it and spraying into the sheaf, leaving it to penetrate through, may help if the problem is internal friction. It's what you do with bike cables. (A thin dry grease would be better to avoid attracting dirt.)
If it the interior handle then really you want some grease on the pivoting parts rather than WD40 which will gunk up after a while and wear off. Likewise if it was the lever at the door latch end, although that is normally pretty well greased unless someone has cleaned it at some time.
Keep an eye on it now in case it comes back as there is a chance it was the locking/unlocking a million times that temporarily freed up a misaligned locking mechanism rather than the WD40 you added. My fingers are also crossed it won't return any time soon!
If it the interior handle then really you want some grease on the pivoting parts rather than WD40 which will gunk up after a while and wear off. Likewise if it was the lever at the door latch end, although that is normally pretty well greased unless someone has cleaned it at some time.
Keep an eye on it now in case it comes back as there is a chance it was the locking/unlocking a million times that temporarily freed up a misaligned locking mechanism rather than the WD40 you added. My fingers are also crossed it won't return any time soon!
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 14
Likes: 4
From: Bradford
Help please
In my case (similar age X351) it was a mechanical failure. The latch worked fine (no more force required than any other door, and the cable pulling part that operates the internal locking latch worked fine, but after opening the failed assembly the part that engages behind the latch to prevent it from being opened until it is withdrawn had broken on one side and was rocking at a bit of an angle. That seemed to fit the symptom which was that it worked some of the time and progressively got worse and worse as it wore more and more. It could have been glued back but would always have been a failure point.
A replacement assembly was only £102 from my local dealer, and is the same superseded parts for all X351 XJ, X250 XF (not the X260) and the later XKs. It took an afternoon to fit myself, or about 4h labour at a dealer. I was told that the superseded part was introduced across all the models to resolve precisely the issue I had, and that they had replaced a handful themselves. It was always the driver door, which suggests normal wear coupled with more frequent slamming of the door causes the part to rock out of alignment and then break. If that is the same fault with yours then WD40 is unlikely to be a long term fix but may help in the short term. However you would need to remove the existing assembly from the car to open it and get to the part anyway, at which point you've already spent the labour cost to get to it and may as well replace it completely.
You are showing as in the US (single locking, LHD), and from your description of using the button on the handle to lock the car it has passive entry. That would make your replacement part C2D5640 for up to U65411 or C2D47285 afterwards for the LH front door. That part is actually cheaper than the double locking version I needed and would cost about £90 over here if buying out of warranty. If that spec is wrong I can get you the correct part number, or your dealer can obviously look it up if you are using them to supply it.
A replacement assembly was only £102 from my local dealer, and is the same superseded parts for all X351 XJ, X250 XF (not the X260) and the later XKs. It took an afternoon to fit myself, or about 4h labour at a dealer. I was told that the superseded part was introduced across all the models to resolve precisely the issue I had, and that they had replaced a handful themselves. It was always the driver door, which suggests normal wear coupled with more frequent slamming of the door causes the part to rock out of alignment and then break. If that is the same fault with yours then WD40 is unlikely to be a long term fix but may help in the short term. However you would need to remove the existing assembly from the car to open it and get to the part anyway, at which point you've already spent the labour cost to get to it and may as well replace it completely.
You are showing as in the US (single locking, LHD), and from your description of using the button on the handle to lock the car it has passive entry. That would make your replacement part C2D5640 for up to U65411 or C2D47285 afterwards for the LH front door. That part is actually cheaper than the double locking version I needed and would cost about £90 over here if buying out of warranty. If that spec is wrong I can get you the correct part number, or your dealer can obviously look it up if you are using them to supply it.
Do you have the part number of the lock assembly? Just so that I can get a price from my Locak Jag dealer.
many thanks..
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 583
Likes: 109
From: Everett, WA
Your query appears to begin in Serbo-Croatian and then switches to English but I'm afraid I can't understand any of it. There is no up-down door lock knob on any X250 XF as far as I know.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 216
Likes: 31
From: New Jersey
I have been experiencing the same problem with my 2015 XF 3.0 SC.
I would lock drivers door from outside by pressing the black rubber dimple on the outside door handle and as I was walking away (within a few seconds) I would hear two beeps. I would go back to car and three doors were locked but the drivers door was not and sound wound the alarm when I opened it.
At first the problem was intermittent but last week it was constant. I tried all of the things mentioned on these forums but nothing resolved the problem so I brought car to dealer and they found a defective driver's door lock motor. They had the parts in stock and I waited which took about 2.5 hours for the job. I was told that inner door panel and even glass would need to come out to perform this job. Since the replacement of door lock motor it appears that my problem has been resolved. I have been driving car since repaired last week and no problems with locking or unlocking and no more double beeps. Everything was put back nicely and these repairs were done under warranty.
I would lock drivers door from outside by pressing the black rubber dimple on the outside door handle and as I was walking away (within a few seconds) I would hear two beeps. I would go back to car and three doors were locked but the drivers door was not and sound wound the alarm when I opened it.
At first the problem was intermittent but last week it was constant. I tried all of the things mentioned on these forums but nothing resolved the problem so I brought car to dealer and they found a defective driver's door lock motor. They had the parts in stock and I waited which took about 2.5 hours for the job. I was told that inner door panel and even glass would need to come out to perform this job. Since the replacement of door lock motor it appears that my problem has been resolved. I have been driving car since repaired last week and no problems with locking or unlocking and no more double beeps. Everything was put back nicely and these repairs were done under warranty.
Originally Posted by nicknoose
Hi
I have the dame issue. when replacing the locking mechanism, do i have to remove the door glass or can i get round this.
thanks
I have the dame issue. when replacing the locking mechanism, do i have to remove the door glass or can i get round this.
thanks
could make replacement without glass removing.
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2023
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Help please!!
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