My 2010 XF s has developed multiple electrical faults(14 when green flag checked)has lost fuel level read out,non locking doors,tyre sensor problems and on Friday the gearbox seemed to decide it didn't know where the gears were anymore and it flipped into neutral and shut down.i read on the forum that failing battery can cause this.resting readout was 12.08 v .anyone else had similar or have any ideas?

 

That resting voltage seems a bit low. I would expect at least 12.5V. Did you measure the battery voltage while the engine is running? If you get around 14 - 14.5V with the engine running, it's probably time for a new battery. How old is your battery? Are the battery terminal connections in good condition (Corrosion etc)?

 

I have a very similar issue, I drove to dinner fine, no problems. Came back from dinner and started the car to a multiple of errors. No back up camera, parking assists not working, Adaptive control fault, Ediff fault, no wipers, vents open and closing on their own, and multiple other faults. I plugged in my code scanner and the car had no codes. i was at 12.5/14.8 volts with the car off/running. I have no idea where to turn from here. The only thing I am wondering if it has anything to do with me getting the car washed prior to going to dinner.

 

i am leaning towards the alternator. i had 15.3v at idle today you should look at your battery or your alternator.

 

I'd agree with EXEF, check the battery. Once you've confirmed the battery is ok, or you had to replace it. Road test and recheck.


Also you'll want to think about checking to see if you have a battery draw in the system...


As for you blownsilly, no back up camera and park assist could not be working due to a park aid sensor failure. As for the other warnings, without any codes it will be difficult to chase those messages. Alternator could be issue if showing over 15.3v.


Also, check the ground points that are just below the headlamps. The RH side you can see easily if there is no air box in the way. For those of you who have a dual air box set up, you'll need to remove air box to access. Clean the grounds, and scuff the paint away, then reassembled. The way they come from the factory is that it depends on the threads of the bolt to provide the ground, if you remove the paint when the bolt head touches the body, this will aid in better ground giving more surface area, rather than relying on the threads of the bolt alone.


Let us know what you find

 

Thanks for the reply, i will investigate more tomorrow, I put in a new battery today just for the hell of it but it did not solve anything. I do notice in the morning after sitting for a while, it starts up normal and takes about 1 min before the faults show up. I know the ecu controls the voltage output so I need to find a way to test if the alternator is overcharging because of a bad diode or if the ecu is telling to to do so.

 

Just an update to what happened with my car, hopefully it helps others diagnose problems. I am still a bit weirded out but who knows what really went on.

Suddenly my car started showing a **** load of faults.
active dynamic fault.
e-diff fault,
blindspot monitoring not available,
no wipers (worked intermittent by it self in the off position),
no indicators,
no hvac,
no back up camera,
no parking assist.
random ebrake failures
gas gauge blanked out to completely
snow mode not available
dynamic mode not available
paddle shifters did not work
heated seats did not work
heated steering did not work
Occasional no key found
Occasional ABS faults

Plus many more.

Many people pointed to the battery, so i figured I would purchase a new battery since I have only owned the car for a month and had no idea how old the battery in the car was.

After the new battery was fitted nothing changed, my cheap scan tool showed it at 12.2 volts and running 15.1 volts, I was assured it was overcharging. I spent a whole week reading about the car electrical system scanning various diagrams just to see how everything worked together and learned that the system does work anywhere from 14.4-15.1 volts while charging designated by the ECM based on the current charge of the battery. This led me to believe the battery I bought was not fully charged so i brought it back to Autozone to have them charge it overnight and still nothing.

I then purchased an iCarsoft lrII scanner to really see what was going on, and omg the amount of codes stored was insane. MS Canbus/ NO communication to body control module, no communication to body control module b, and like 30 more. I checked the canbus ohms at the diagnostic port and got 60ohms which is correct (battery disconnected. I unplugged it at the central junction box and got 120ohms in and 120ohms out. which is also correct. and i checked it at the AJB in the trunk and got 120ohms back out which is also correct. so i knew the integrity of the mscan wiring was good.

I then went through each module in the carsoft lr2 and documented and erased all the codes to see which came back, after a while and a few start ups one by one the faults started to go away and as of right now i have no more faults (other than tpms which i know i need new sensors). I noticed that when looking through the faults some modules noted an issue with the battery so I am assuming the battery was the root of the issue. I am going to log it for another week and see what comes up and if it stays status quo.

 

Follow up update with this, the car continued to do this issue intermittently, The real cause of the issue was a bad TPMS module which was giving MSCAN bus signal issues to the other modules.

 

Very interesting......who would have thought that?

 

What were the troubleshooting steps to determine it was the TPMS? Did you find it, or a shop?

 

I found it, when I bought the car it did not have any tpms sensor so the entire time I assumed the tpms light was on for that reason.

The issue was very very random but when it happened it could happen for 10 mins or 2 days. sometimes resetting would be the cure, other times it would be a no go.

After doing extensive reading on the the jaguar can bus system I went and checked the ohms to verify the resistance was correct which it was. The most consistent code other than the tpms was ms can bus communication issues where one of modules on the ms can bus was not communicating with one another (all modules on the ms canbus were acting up so when the situation occured nothing worked that was on that canbus line). At that point I realized the only other consistent fault on the mscanbus line was the tpms so I purchased tpms sensors to install.

Once installed nothing changed so I decided to unplug the module (with the battery off) when the car started to act up. I then isolated the TPMS module and the car went back to normal with no issues and no communication codes for a few months now.

 

That 12.2V is worrying low for a supposedly new battery. Investigate...

 

Just remember that new batteries will not necessarily be fully charged, that's the first thing to bear in mind. Been there done that as I once bought one that was totally flat and devoid of any water.

 

Good point - and true!

 

I'm experiencing this exact same situation. Could you expand on the location of the TPMS? Did you leave it unplugged or did you have it replaces?

 

It is under the passenger seat, I left it unplugged, spring time i will replace it. Any bad module on the ms-can bus will cause it, but if you have a permanent tps fault light then go for it.

 

I dont have a permanent tps light but the car goes full idiot like described above at random. Dealership said they would charge me 190 to let the car sit running until they found out what it was, so here we are.